Chevy 305

No, TBI stands for Throttle Body Injection. It is similar to a carb, but uses a different method to dispense fuel.

Yes.

The cost of a rebuild can vary quite a 'bit depending on what you need to replace, the level of machining work that needs to be done, and obviously, who you bring it to and how much they charge. A typical rebuild will consist of cleaning all the parts to be re-used (including the engine block, cylinder heads, crankshaft, and connecting rods, which is usually done by the machinist). Milling the cylinder heads, boring the block, and sometimes turning the crank under, to ensure consistency, and a good fit well within tolerances. Usually it will also be left to a machinist to install all the bearings and plugs in the engine, as well as pressing the pins into the piston, and installing the piston on the rods. A lot of this can be done by a good mechanic as well, as long as they have the proper tools and machines to do so. The rest of the assembly can usually be done with a basic garage setup, just so long as the builder knows how to properly lubricate the parts, torque everything down, adjust the valve lash, and if in charge of the first firing and break in, properly adjust timing, check pressures, and look for any problems. But to address your original question of how much it costs.... Rebuild kits for Chevy 350 engines range anywhere from $400 to $800 for basic setups, and should include most, if not every part you'll need to replace (bearings, plugs, seals, new pistons, rings, cam, etc.) These kits do not include things like water pumps, alternators, belts, manifolds, etc. If you are building for higher performance, expect to pay at least in the $1,500 - $3,000 range and up, depending on how much power you want to make. Basic cleaning and machining by the machinist usually doesn't exceed $300 - $500, but if the machinist finds other things wrong than the basics, expect to pay more. Re-seating valves, and rebuilding cylinder heads can typically run you anywhere from $200 - $600, not including parts........just to give you an example. Anyway, to bring this ramble to a close, on the low end, I would expect to pay at least $1,500 - $2,000 for a decent rebuild, and on the high end (as long as your talking basic, not performance), expect around $3,000 and up. Keep in mind, again, this does not usually include parts like water pumps, belts, fluids, etc. And you'll also have to keep in mind extra expenses like removal and re-installation of the engine, and some places also charge for the disassembly of the engine as well. Your best bet is to talk with a few local, reputable mechanics and/or machinists, and they could give you a better idea of the service they offer, the prices they charge (as a lot of that varies by region, etc.), and what sort of turnaround you'd be looking at. Hope this was some help, and good luck!

0.045

Because hurricane Katrina hit

This question can not be answered in this forum as it is an illegal act. The Federal Government mandates that the emission system on an automobile is Not to be altered or removed from a vehicle and is punishable with a fine or imprisonment.

if you got an automatic transmission you may have to get a kick down linkage so your transmission will down shift if it needs to when you give it gas that is only if there is not a button on the floor under your gas pedal if there is you dont need one the button does the same thing the cable does

A little more detail please, is this after the battery has been charged and goes dead while the vehicle is being used or is it after it has been sitting for a few days??

i found this answer under a different question which was answered by clay, all i did was copy and paste. but this will work for you too. You will have to find the #1, connection. To do that, remove the #1 spark plug, and the distributor cap. It is located drivers side, front of engine. Remove the coil wire and turn the engine over until the piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), on the compression stroke. You can feel the compression with your thumb over the hole. A long screwdriver inserted in the hole that hits the top of the piston will help to find TDC. Turn the engine by hand, if you insert a screwdriver. Once you find the TDC, look where the rotor is pointing. That is the #1 connection. The direction the rotor turns will tell you what is next,(8). Firing order is 1-8-7-2-6-5-4-3.

on TBI cars, it is next to the AC clutch, on the fenderwell, on MFI, it is in the fuse box in the engine compartment.

sorry, they are completely different. the new genIII and IV motors have 4 head bolts per cylinder not to mention drasticly changed port locations

If that truck has a carb it's probably inside. Take off the fuel line and remove the nut that the fuel line screws into. Pay attention to which way the filter goes. There is usually a hole in one end and a spring behind it.

yes.

The Chevy caprice classic does not have anti theft technology. I have made many 1 dollar duplicates of my key and they all work fine I own a Repair Shop and what you say is true to a certain extent.In the past 2 weeks we have had 3 cars towed in for a no start. They were using the valet key. After awhile the pass code will not recognize it and will fail to start. If your key has a chip(resistor) in it then it is for antitheft.

Probably not. Should be able to go to about .510 or .520 without interference.

unbolt and remove pump.plug/remove hoses as necessary to eliminate exhaust noise.remove drive belt.e sure to plug vacuum hoses.

The 1989 Chevy Caprice was 212.2 inches long (5,390 mm).

anything is possible but why? After buying all the parts to change it and hiring a machine shop to alter it you could have bought 2 350's from the junk yard. The only thing that is the same 'is' the block. Yeah. You might as well buy a 350. It would be a lot cheaper and a lot less work.

Standing in the front of the engine, Right head front to rear are cylinders 1-3-5-7
The left head front to back are cylinders 2-4-6-8

library

Going up the scale from "0" the 4th mark is 8 degrees. Be sure to check the mechanical and vacuum advance as well.

Turn the engine until the #1 plug is at TDC on the compression stroke. Mark the distributor at that location. Install the new distributor and turn until you are at the exact same location. Have the timing checked after you get it started.

Evidently you are loosing vacuum to the blend doors. Look under the hood at the rear of the engine. Check all of the vacuum hoses to see if any are off or broken

Yes thay will bolt right on with no problems.

do you have fire at the plug? if not the cap has coil in it and needs replaced