Chevy 305

LT1 gen 2 to LS1 gen 3 no

Sounds like it's running out of fuel. Check fuel filter, vacuum leaks, fuel pump, etc.

Probably. But you may need to enlarge the 4 center bolt holes, as the angle is a little different.

NEW ANSWER: That is TRUE when you install a TBI / Throttle body injection intake on an early modal carbureted engine / set of heads. You can't drill the intake bolt holes out to make it fit on a vortec engine / HEADS. Reason being is because the bolt holes in the vortec heads and intake are straight up and down.

The fuel pump relay is under the hood on the passenger side wheel well.

By the way, it's a 2.5 Liter engine, the system saved it as a 25L for whatever reason.

All V8 Chevrolet's firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. 1,3,5,7 is on the left bank and 2,4,6,8 is on the right bank. The distributor turns clockwise.

your question makes no sence.

any over sized wheels will over stress your drive train.

The first place to look is a vacuum leak, like a bad carb. to intake gasket or disconnected/ cracked hose, or even a faulty pcv valve.

heat the cap up with a turbo torch and burn the plastic out of the cap groove.

Drain out some of the coolant from the radiator, remove the two bolts that hold the thermostat housing, clean up the mating surfaces, replace the thermostat, install a new gasket, and bolt the housing back in place.

This is usually a pretty simple job requiring a minimum of tools and knowledge. Just watch out for leaks after completing, and make sure the radiator is completely refilled. Might want to check it a couple times after getting the engine fully warmed up and completely cooled down.

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise on dist. cap.

When it was new it had 150 PSI. per cylinder

Yes it will.

check the coolant temperature sensor. When this sensor goes bad, its resistance is too high signaling the engine control unit the temp is way colder than it really is so the computer flloods the combustion chambers while cranking the engine and so no start.

I have an 84 305 and everything says 45, and uses r45ts plugs

there should be little dots on the crank and cam gears.... just line them up when you put the cam and the timing chain on and you should be good. the cam gear you cant screw up because it has a dowel the goes into the cam gear and the crank is keyed so it gets pressed on the right spot... very easy

They were still using R-12 at that time. Check with your local a/c technician to see if it's still available or if you need to update to a newer refrigerant.

As all Chevrolet car: dismantle the fuel tank completely. Place your above to get free accees below taking into account the space necessary to down the fuel tank.Drain the fuel tank , then disconnect battery BOTH + and -. Have a fire extinguisher nearby. Dismantle the rubber pipes connected on the tank. Unscrew the 4 bolts that sustain the tank braces. You need to be 2 person to bring down the tank. Disconnect the electrical connector. Unscrew the 6 bolts of the pipes and cable penetration above the tank. Pull out carefully the fuel pump assembly. To reinstall, first clear dry the tank, change rubber gasket and at least electrical harness and the pump and its strainer. This pump is a design weakness of these models of chevrolet. Each time to down the tank (roman work!!) better to change the pump and strainer anyway. Courage

pull out a vaccuum gauge install on vaccuum port of carburetor start vehicle use adjustment screws to pull the most vaccuum as possible on each port,repeat process on second port once adjusted press throttle to around 2000 r.p.m.'s to determine where vaccuum gauge needle is operating at.

first disconect battery,carb(fuel lines)and throttle cable(might have a second kick down cable on some models),some models will have sensors and vacuum hoses that need unpluged from the intake manfold such as the water temp guage sensor on the thermostat housing and others(color code and disconnect) remove distributor and spark plug wires,remove upper radiator hose, remove intake manifold,remove alternator...depending if its drivers or passengers....powersteering pump...diconect pump from brackets lay to the side...no need to disconect hoses.....disconect exhaust manifold.....now drain radiator,,,, remove valve cover exposing rocker arms(this is also when you get to see how gunked up your engine is. If it is really gunked up. could be signs of future problems do to bad oil flow. bearings, lifters, etc....)......loosen rockers ....remove push rods keeping in order.....remove head bolts...stick screw driver in exhaust port to free head from gasket..... In this type of project it would be a good idea to take notes, pictures and label connections as much as possible if replacing head back onto engine later. Itemize parts in jars or storage trays. clean off all gaskets and replace with oem or better. Note when your putting everything back together. it would be a good idea to replace the thermostat and thermostat gasket. Clean the lifters and pushrods. Check the rocker arm springs. make sure the valves are clean and seating is good. check or replace the valve guides as needed(this is usually the cause of oil burn at startup). If this is a aluminum head and the engine overheated. Have the head checked out to make sure it wasn't damaged from the heat(Aluminium heads are usually used for competition racing engines). Depends on what your wanting to do after you remove the head(replace, swap, rebuild). Maybe buy a book on your type of engine(chilton, haynes) main thing is to do it right the first time. this type of project is not for the mechanically challenged. Good luck!!!

No way, not even close. Chevy REDESIGNED the engine blocks and the transmissions in late 1999. Nothing will interchange under 1999.

Once it gets low on coolant because of the leak, absolutely. The leak by itself won't make it overheat if it's a small leak and your coolant level doesn't get low. If you DO have a leaking freeze plug, it WILL get worse, and probably rapidly. Also, if one freeze plug has rusted through and started leaking, you should replace ALL of them because the others probably aren't far behind.

I will assume that the car is fuel injected/computer controlled carburetor. You will have to replace the intake, the carburetor and the distributor. These parts can be found at your local junk yard. Care should be taken when selecting these parts, that they are taken from a non-computer controlled chevy. If not available, these parts can be purchased from a performance parts dealer, i.e. eldelbrock, MSD.

it could be a number of things. dead battery, bad alternator, bad starter, bad fuel pump,timing off,bad distributor,bad flywheel,bad connnections,no gas,bad carb.

No, 283 has too small a bore.

The old power pack heads that came on some 283's were 202,160's, so I would think the 305 heads should work just fine. Not sure about the resulting compression ratio though. The 305 intake might be aluminum, which would be lighter than the 283 intake.