Chevy 305

305 and 350 share the same stroke, so that doesn't change the size of the engine. Installing 60 over pistons would increase the displacement by 12 cubic inches.

The horsepower depends largely on which small block 305 you have. Most of the early model 305's(1976-1980) are around 150 hp with a compression ratio of 8.5:1. The later model versions hover around 190 hp all the way up to about 215 hp. Check out this site http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevy_small_block#305

Yes. May have to improvise the kick-down cable.

the dipstick hole is on the passengers side about 2 inches behind the knock sensor *on pre 1978 blocks the hole is on the drivers side in the same orientation as mentioned The dipstick hole is kind of right behind the starter. If your dropping it in an older vehical you wont have the knock sensor of course.

you need a new e.c.m. located above glovebox

What altitude are you at? from seal level to about 2000 ft i would set at 4

and add 2 deg for every 1500 to 2000 feet.

If it's leaking transmission fluid, could be a bad pump seal. If it's leaking engine oil, could be a bad oil filter, leaking valve cover gasket, leaking intake manifold gasket, leaking oil pressure sender, leaking distributor gasket.

The Chevy 350 is 5.7 liters the 327 is 5.3 liters

here the best answer i can give you on the timing of a 305 Chevy engine i seen timing on these engines from 0 to 13 btdc the best way to set the timing is to disconnect the est plug and start the enginge and very slowly turn the dis. and listen to the engine until it runs the smoothest then turn it off and reconnect the est plug and try restarting it it should start nicely if not then you need to readjust the dis. my 305 which is a 1985 is happy at 12deg. btdc. but is built up a little and no poluion bull on it

Mine runs good at 8-10 BTDC

1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2 the factory intake manifold has it embossed on the manifold

Small Block Chevrolet Torque Specifications Main cap bolts (oil on threads).....................................................70 ft.-lbs. first set wrench for 45 ft.-lbs and tighten each bolt, then set wrench for 70 ft.-lbs and torque each bolt again. Rod bolts (oil on threads)............................................................45 ft.-lbs. Oil pump bolt (oil on threads).......................................................55 ft.-lbs. Head bolts (sealer on threads).....................................................65 ft.-lbs. Screw-in rocker arm studs (oil on threads)....................................50 ft.-lbs. Cam sprocket bolts (oil on threads)..............................................20 ft.-lbs. Intake manifold bolts (sealer on threads except four corner bolts)....35 ft.-lbs. Harmonic balancer (oil on threads)................................................65 ft.-lbs. Flywheel/flexplate bolts (oil on threads).........................................65 ft.-lbs. Pressure plate bolts (oil on threads)..............................................35 ft.-lbs. These specs are for stock-type bolts, if you are using aftermarket bolts you should follow their recommended torque specifications.

no need for a diagram,

there a a few steps to make sure your engine is spot on when you re-install the dist, or if you just tangle the wires replacing them.

I'll just tell you how to set the wires up,

assuming the distributor wasn't removed, or moved at all, point the closed rotor cap #1 cylinder pole, some caps are marked, some aren't, assuming you have an idea where this is, point the # 1 cylinder post with wire if it's connected, directly at #1 cylinder itself, if you didn't remove the cap, it should already be pointed this way.

In that engine #1 cylinder is located with you facing the engine, first plug front side right.

after that the the firing order is followed from #1 cylinder on the cap, order is 18436572 clockwise on the cap.

oh yea, even #'s cylinders are on the left side of your engine, 2-4-6-8, facing the engine.

odd #'s are on the right, 1-3-5-7 respectively, facing the engine of course :)

jr

just use a light tester, clamp the gator clamp on a ground turn your light on and jam the tip into differant wires on the plug, you will actually have 2 power wires, one for low beams and 1 for high beams

Neither one does, these are two different ways to get fuel to the cylinders.

.......IT DEPENDS ON THE CARB SIZE ENGINE MODES BUT IT DOES

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The E4od is a different creature than a C-6. First, the bell housing bolts must line up and the torque converter must be the same. The rear support has to work. I don't think all those will be the same, probably not. Next, the E4od is a computer controlled transmission and is tied into the vehicle's computer. Getting the thing to work would require a lot of work.

There is information in the Haynes repair books that would probably help you. The Haynes book I have shows a diagram of a 1967-1987series Chevy or GMC truck.

Buy a push button from an auto or tractor parts store, mount it in the desired location, and route two 12 guage wires from the button to the starter. Connect one wire to the large, center post on the solenoid and touch the other wire to either of the other two posts on the solenoid while pushing on the starter button. When the engine starts cranking, you'll know which post to connect the other wire to. Connect the wire to the correct solenoid post, and then check the wire routing to avoid major heat sources that might damage the wires.

Not sure about specifically for a 1971 307, but normally the choke has 2 wires. One is ground and the other goes to a fused 12V source (supplies 12V when igition key is turned on)

if the block, crank, and manifolds are good the easiest thing to do is buy a rebuild kit. it should come with all the parts you need. the heads need to be taken to a professional to be tested and a valve job done.

basically you need all the gaskets, rod and main bearings, and rings. a new fuel pump and also water pump would be a good idea.

This is also a good time to replace the oil pump, camshaft and lifters.

it should bolt right in using the hardware and instructions that came with the starter. If the block isn't drilled and tapped for both holes, you'd need add the second hole using the new started as a template.

Yes it can, you will also need the big block pickup tube

roller bearings are only needed if engine has roller bearings, u would replace bearings with same bearings that are in engine and cam specs

It can be any of a number of problems. Possiblities are: Oxygen sensor, air filter, fuel filter, plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap, throttle position sensor, MAP sensor, carburater, compression... and who knows what else without knowing more of the symptoms. If the vehicle is injected, it probably has a computer diagnostic port. If that's the case, borrow, rent or buy a code scanner and use it to find out exactly what the computer has detected. egr valve i just went through the same issue

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