Chevy Astro

pull mthe fuse under the hood a 60 amp fuse it worked for me.

It is advisable to have the ignition coil grounded on a 2003 Chevy Astro. This should especially be done when you are working on spark plugs and wires.Ê

A Chevy Astro van can be purchased from Auto Trader, Car Gurus, Car Advice, Kijiji, eBay, Car Talk, Deals on Wheels, Car Fax, Trading Post and Cars For Sale.

3800 series 2 3.8 liter 231 cubic inches

The crank position sensor On your astro is located

on front of the engine on timing cover, left side.

Behind the crankshaft pulley. with a connector of 3 wires.

e.g.r. valve replacement fixed mine. symptoms where rough idle and "surged".

GM RWD mid-size and large Vans/SUV's (Jimmy, Bravada, TrailBlazer, Yukon, etc..) with an electronic 4sp automatic use the 4L60. The 4L60 has a known weakness with the Sun Gear Shell. It will take out 2nd, 4th and Reverse. This has been a known problem for years. It is not uncommom for the Sun Gear shell to crack at 70-80,000 miles. GM historically has not addressed this issue so if you use a GM part in the rebuild you may end up with the same issue. Do a google search on "sun gear shell" and "4L60" and you'll see what I mean. If replacing the part use an aftermarket part that has addressed this issue. If you have this fixed at the GM dealer they will charge you $800, will only replace the Sun Gear shell, and it will happen again. If you must have a dealer do it beg them it use an alternative part.

For those you have a stock sun gear shell in your 4L60 simply don't floor it from a dead stop and avoid full throttle 4-2 downshifts. I have 215,000 miles on the 4L60 in my '96 Astro Van and after learning of this issue several years ago I simply take it easy. The 4L60 in general is a good trans and is an electronic version of the 700-4R used in the mid 80's up thru 1993. Since they were also used in the Vette's and Camaro's the aftermarket has many parts to significantly beef-up these transmissions in high horsepower applications.

I had a problem on my 99. It wouldn't engage in reverse. Turns out there was a Gear Hub that fractured. I had to have it rebuilt.

The same question for a 99 Sienna was answered on this site by referencing www.findonefindall.com/toyota-sienna/ The price quoted for the handle way $65.

Check suspension system for worn parts or lack of lubrication Springs and gaskets between body and suspension or failure of a gasket. It really is pretty common.

There are actually two knock sensors for the 1995 (one on the right and one on the left side of the engine block): Later model engines used a single knock sensor located on top rear of engine close to distributor At approximately 150K miles on my '95 Safari , my SERVICE ENGINE SOON light stayed on and the trouble code read was 43 indicating a problem with the ESC (electronic spark control) system which includes the knock sensors that are tied into the PCM. (The PCM either retards or advances the timing depending if the condition sensed is "knock" or "ping"). When first visually checked I only noticed the one sensor on the right side and set off for the dealer parts dept to buy a new one. There I was told there were two sensors but I decided to only replace the right one and see what happened...well I didnt luck out and the error code still indicated code 43. At this point I let the dealer service dept resolve the issue and they installed the second sensor. I received call that this still didnt take care of the error code and now I was facing a bad PCM as the possible faulty part. A new PCM was around $400 and to make matters worse...the existing PCM was a mongrel aftermarket type that had no residual "core" value which is worth about $100 if it's a genuine GM part. At this point I told the service dept to sit tight and give me a chance to locate another PCM. After a couple of calls to the boneyards I was told I could get one from a S-10 that would work for $50 if I pulled it myself. After seeing the S-10, I saw why it was such a deal since the truck had been rolled with the roof caved in...with all the broken winshield glass and the deadline to deliver the part to the dealer before they packed it up I managed to extract it from the wreck doing a few contorsions. In the end....the newly acquired PCM was sucessfully recycled after switching out the prom card. The Safari has been going strong ever since and no signs of the code 43 have resurfaced. In hindsight..there must be some way to check the sensors before just blindly replacing them in the process-of-elimination method but no useful suggestions were offered up by the dealer service dept as it seems they just read the same codes I did for their $79 "diagnostic evaluation" which was supposed to include some fancy trouble shooting equipment scans. Well live n learn....glad the problem was resolved....hope this info is useful to someone. Good luck!!!

under hood remove antifreeze overflow jug and windshield washer jug look towards fire wall follow wires remove two screws

Is it possible that the wiring to the horn relay or switch have been switched around? Possibly a misconnection in the ignition switch itself causing a faulty circiut similar to a short? Just a couple of ideas I thought of. ------- It is probable that you have a

Stick a small screwdriver or other thin object into the inside of the ring around the interior door handle to pry the clips.

10w30 if using regular oil. I recommnd Spectro 10w30 clutch saver oil.

I contacted the Chevy Dealer and he informed me that the Chevy astro van has a timing "chain", not a timing belt and requires no maintanence action for this item.

First, I am not a mechanic. However, I am technically inclined and have owned many astro/safari vans. Hopefully the following is at least informative.

-The astro's 4L60e transmission has a very wide gap (change in gear ratio) from first to second; thus, some lurch forward is normal

-Transmission fluid flows more quickly/easily when it is hot. Typically, gear changes and clutches engagement/disengagement will happen more quickly when the fluid is warm than cold.

-A quick, firm and positive shift is preferred to a seamless long shift. The quicker the shift, the less the transmission friction material will be worn over time.

How many miles are on the astro? Has the transmission fluid and filter been changed regularly (every 25,000-40,000 miles)?

-If the clutches or friction bands are worn, the friction surfaces may become "catchier/grabbier" when hot. I have experienced this with clutch surfaces in warn differentials before.

-If the transmission has not been serviced in a couple years, I would recommend dropping the pan, cleaning the pan, changing the filter, and filling it with 5+ quarts of Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF. You may also try adding 1/2 or a full bottle of Lucas transmission fix with the new fluid. It supposedly helps bring some life back to warn friction bands.

Good luck, post any success.

Joel

i had the same problum with my 1994 astro van cost me $1400.00 to find out that the problun was in the computer i got a used computer from the salvage yard and for 100.00 i had to switch the long chip at the bottom of the boardwhith the one from mine and it has been running fine ever since hope this info helps Henry

Usually under the van on the vehicles frame. Driver's side. You may need a "Quick Disconnect" tool.

which line are we talking about the small hard plastic line that is near the A/C freon resavour to the valve cover on the drivers side. If that's the one you'll have to take off the engine cover on the inside and it is located next to the throttle body on the drivers side. There is another soft rubber hose that comes off of that same connector near the A/C unit that goes somewere behind the alternator. I haven't found it yet been looking and searching for hours now

My van is a 1996 with a 4.3L so assuming you have a 4.3L which you probably do. The top radiator hose will lead you right to the t-stat housing. I am assuming you are talking about the t-stat for your radiator and not the t-stat for your A/C or any other t-stat. Just find the top radiator house and follow it to the engine. It connects to the t-stat housing at the top front of the engine. The housing is connected via 2 bolts. Remove the air cleaner assembly and the top half of the fan shroud (If yours is like my 1996, the fan shroud has a top half and a bottom half) to gain easier access. Kudos to the GM engineer that designed the 2-piece fan shroud!! You might as well go ahead and change your upper and lower radiator hoses and water pump by-pass hose while you are at it if you haven't already. .

102.2 liters or 22.4 gal.

need to install rear heat to my Chevy astro it already have rear air condition

That vacuum line originates at a T fitting at the vacuum reservior (about a 5" black ball) located near the right front inner fender, about 2" forward and right of the engine block. A larger tube supplies the vacuum from the right rear of the upper intake manifold (plenum) fitting. This tiny plastic tube is prone to drying and splitting in the area that is exposed to engine bay heat before it goes into the wiring harness loom, so give it a good look over there. Also, the manual valve in the controls gets loose from use and will loose vac there, I've made special and cheap kits to repair this. On my '95 Astro I had only 5" of vacuum at the fitting on the plenum, a new gasket brought it back.

Drain the water from your 1998 Chevy Astro cooling system. Remove the water supply hoses from the heater core. Remove the heater core retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new heater core.

From the driver's seat, place the heater control lever on the hot position. Run the engine for only a minute, then shut it off. Remove the radiator cap. Open the petcock at the bottom of the raidator or disconnect the hose fitting at the bottom of the radiator. Order replacement upper and lower radiator hoses and a new radiator cap. Drain the radiator into a sealable container for appropriate disposal later. Don't reuse old coolant - it is contaminated. Your refuse or trash/garbage haulers will have a place you can take it to for safe disposable away from children and pets (it's sweet-flavored and they may drink it, and it's a fatal poison). Disconnect the hoses going to the firewall, at the firewall. Order replacements. In the passenger compartment, at the passenger side, locate the dash retaining bolts behind the drink tray, and remove them and the engine access cover for access into the engine compartment from the inside of the van, to help with managing the core removal - you should also replace the air filter at this time, since you can now get to it without having to damage the air cleaner cover. If you have one of the later Astro models with the advanced Vortec fuel system option, you may have a lot of plastic hardware to remove and keep track of. Be patient. Remove the interior heater fan shroud/box. It is at the front of the front passenger footwell. It also covers the return air intake for heating and AC. The core is behind that. You will have to get behind the dash to finish the job, which requires removing all retaining clips and screws/bolts. This heater core is not repairable. Get a replacement from a GM or Chevy dealer. Lube the tube stubs with a good silicone lube before replacing the hoses. Get some screw-type hose clamps instead of reusing the originals. In reverse order, replace all removed parts. Double-check for leak tightness before you bolt everything back together. Repair manuals are still available in most auto parts stores or online from Haynes, still the best and most comprehensive publisher. Good luck. Replacing my Astro's core was a bear of a job. I should have hired a mechanic!

Find your IAC (idle air control) motor on your throttle body and clean it out making sure the gaskets are still good. This is from the lady who asked the original question and I would like to thank everyone who participated in my dilemma. The IAC valve needed cleaning and a new filter. The car runs beautifully now and has so much more power it's like a different car! Thank you again and God bless you all. I did this, car runs much better. Also changed fuel filter, under Right side near rear wheel. Car still ran poorly for a few drives, but is fine now, so be prepared for a couple restarts at first.