Chevy Astro

I don't really know how to change a block heater in a tracker, but the following may help. First, I'm assuming your block heater doesn't work. If so have you checked the plug and cord? An easy way to do this is to find or buy an analog volt-ohm meter (one with a needle instead of a digital readout). Then, set it to any ohm (resistance) setting and touch the leads to the two plug prongs (ignore the ground prong). Try not to let your fingers touch the metal part of the probes or the plug. If the needle sweeps and stays at any resistance witout moving, it means your block heater is okay. If it doesn't move and just stays at an infinite resistance, then it's possible your plug, or cord is damaged. This is not uncommon and it happened to me. First, buy a new three pronged plug at a hardware store, and cut the old one off as close to the old plug as possible (no point in wasting cable). Then wire the new plug on. (This is alternating current so the wires shouldn't matter as long as green is to the ground prong). Then test again. If there still is infinite resistance, then you must replace the cord. Follow the cord until you find where it plugs into the block. On a 2.0L I4, it should be down around the exhaust manifold, so do this when the engine is cold. With a good tug, it should come unplugged and that is where you would plug in the new cord, which would be purchased at an auto parts store, or dealer if necessary. I hope this is of use. My block heater stopped working last winter and I was about to get it replaced when someone showed me how to do this, and it ended up just being a faulty plug (corrosion, moisture and other wear and tear over time), so hopefully that is all that is wrong with yours. Good luck!

The MAF sensor is between the air filter housing and the throttle body. The removal should be straightforward with simple hand tools. Handle the new sensor with care, and be sure to place a small amount of dielectric grease on the connector for the wiring harness. Be sure to carefully reassemble the connections from the throttle body to the MAF, and on to the filter housing, as any air leaks will cause drivability issues and could allow dirt to enter the engine.

possibly when the a/c is not needed to cool the air temperature you set. The A/C control module has failed, as revealed on a diagnostics check.

Try your local library. That is where I go for automotive manuals, mine even lets me check them out.

Another answer: Many auto parts stores carry Haynes manuals for most cars ($10-$15). I've found them invaluable when working on my own cars. The Haynes manuals cover almost everything you can do on your car, to include wiring diagrams, diagnostic codes (and how to read them), regular maintenance, brakes, emissions, all the way to engine overhaul.

THIS is a completely useless answer,I'm sorry,but if anyone wanting a diagram was going to go to the library,why wait on someone to tell them too?Why doesn't anyone just post a freaking diagram,or not waste everyone's time with whats basically an ad for Haynes and your local library?

It is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the vehicle just behind and to the left of the radiator overflow tank and windshield washer resovoir.

Not 100% on this but I would pull the plugs and compare them to [http://www.hioutput.com/tech/plug.html These Images].
But it sounds like your van is misfiring and the lose of oil pressure could indicate several things like worn bores/piston rings or valve guides. Good Luck and Remember.
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if v6 its passenger side after the cat v8 drivers side after the cat

The 1997 Chevrolet Astro Van 02 sensor can be found attached to the outside of the air cleaner housing. The O2 sensor will be on the back side of the air cleaner housing.

Most fuel gauge sender units use a float inside the fuel tank, which is coupled to a electronic device that will vary the voltage as the float position changes. Either the float has gotten hung up on something, or the electronic device has gotten dirty. In either case, removing the sender unit from the tank will be required to repair the problem.

Starting the motor.

I believe it is 26 gallons if you do not have an Owners manual. you should be able to Google it , But the last I checked My 2001 Astro it was 26 gallons.

its the silver cylinder lugged into the fuse box under the dash board on the drivers side

Two things: 1. Your power steering pump is quite - this will affect your steering (of course) but will effect the brakes too 2. You lost your main belt that operates all the aulterator, steering, cooling system and brakes (the serpantine belt) - if the belt is still on and tight - its number one (I had both happen1)

there are 2 hidden bolts under the center glove box .

also at the top left and right are 2 bolts wit straight bladed screwdriver slits it is a lot easier if you have a screwdriver or extension 15-18 long i always take the passengers seat out if i have much work to perform makes it a lot easier wait until you have to change plugs then you will really be cussing

Serpentine belts have a self tensioner and if it is too loose then either the belt has streatched and needs replacing or the tensioner is bad and needs replacing. There is no adjustment.

If it is a new belt they do make two sizes based on which alternator you have I guessed on mine and was wrong, it was almost the right size but would slip alot.

By loose, I assume you mean that the entire steering column is loose. That requires you to remove the steering wheel (wheel puller required) and also digging through several layers of electrical components: first layer is the turn signal. second layer is the ignition. third layer is the high beam. After the third layer, you should see 4 torx bit screws that secure the steering column. Tighten those torx bit screws and the column will no longer move up and down. If you mean the steering wheel is loose, as in there is a lot of play in the turning, then you need to adjust the rack and pinion in the engine bay.

On top of the steering column near the firewall under the dash. There will be a metal rod going into the bottom of the switch.

I believe if you remove the battery, you'll have better access to the fluid bottle. Probably just reach down, pull the old hose off, press a new hose on. If removing the battery doesn't give you access, perhaps coming up from underneath the car.

You have to remove the door panels.

1. On the front doors, there should be 3 screws on each door.

1 on the side closest to the body of the car, 1 in the door handle, and 1 inside the arm rest. Remove all screws. 2. Firmly yet delicately pull the door panels off slightly from the door. Start from the sides or the bottom. 3. Unplug the electrics, door light and windows. 4. You should have full access to the speakers there. 5. Repeat the process to re-assemble the door panels. EEEEEEEEAAASYYYYYY!!!!!

Here is a link to Auto zone. Hope this helps you.

Blinker relay is under steering column. In fuse box, there is a relay in right corner. If your blinkers don´t flash, that is usually broken.

There is a small hose that will get a hole burnt in it. It will cause a vacuum leak and the engine will stall out during idle. It is located behind the top valve cover and unless you are real good you will have to take it to a dealer. You also might have a couple of sensors burnt out also. All will cost you between 500 to 800 dollars.

hope this helps.

gage of temperature go to hot position but is not hot the engine

check gages light come on

You have to replace the instrument cluster. The cheapest option if from junk yard, or ebay. Try to find one of the same year with very close mileage.