Chevy Beretta

Leaking heater core or leaking windshield. If it taste sweet, it is coolant and the heater core is leaking. i have a 96 and i found that the fire wall has rusted out from the drain holes under the hood and the rack has pulled oof This is a very common problem with the 92-96 Berettas, I am almost positive that it is NOT a leaking windshield or leaking heater core. The water leak is because of a factory defect. There is a gap in the seam in the fresh air inlet under the hood in the cowl area(passenger side). The water usually ends up on both passenger and drivers side. I have had 3 Berettas and they all have had this problem!

sounds like you have a problem with the ignition if if has coil packs it will do that or it could be the wires but problay the ignition is wore out . it might not look bad but the inside is gone once you put any kind of stress on it

According to that block number, it should be a 1980-1985 305 V8.

So to answer your question;

Any starter for a 1980-1985 Malibu, Camaro, Caprice, or Pickup should be the correct one.

check for a cable comming out of the transmission even if its electronic

Disconnect the battery. Remove the lower dash panel and steering column cover. Check for bright yellow wire with green clip under the dash. Remove green clip and disconnect wire harness. (This kills the air bag and prevents it from accidentally going off in your face). Disconnect the long flat wire harness along the steering column (usually black in color). Remove the 4 bolts on the back of the steering wheel holding down the air bag. Disconnect air bag and gently place it face-up somewhere safe. Disconnect the horn by pushing down on the plastic stalk and turning 1/4 turn counter-clockwise. Remove large nut in center of steering wheel. Remove the c-clip on the column. Attach a steering wheel puller to the wheel, and remove the wheel. Remove the SIR coil (bright yellow plastic with the same connector as the air bag). There's the turn signal switch! Remove the screw holding down the turn signal lever. Remove the screws holding the turn signal switch in place. Once disconnected, gently pull it away, directing the end of the wire harness up the steering column. Installation is the reverse of removal.

try looking under the glove compartment try looking under the glove compartment

Perhaps the coolant temperature sensor isn't fucntioning properly, and not sending the proper temperature to trigger them. Sometimes the relay that controls them can go bad too. If you can, also try checking the ground points for the fan circuit.

No, the 1996 Chevrolet Beretta does not have an access panel for the fuel pump. To replace or service the fuel pump, you typically need to remove the fuel tank. This process involves draining the tank, disconnecting the fuel lines, and unbolting the tank from the vehicle.

Yes you do have to take off the starter and the guard for the fly wheel... WIll not take you long at all. Loosen them all first and then take them out.. tighten to 15 ft lb of torque.. careful to not blow out the rubber gasket.. as well as take off the oil filter tool.

how to replace a 1990 Chevy Beretta battery

If you are talking about the speed limiting of the vehicle,that is part of the programming in the computer.

The typical GM R-134a automotive AC unit has two access points: one on the HIGH pressure end which is covered with a RED cap, and one on the LOW pressure end covered with a BLUE cap. If you are trying to "re-charge" your AC system, you must connect to the LOW/BLUE end! On a 1994 3100-equipped Beretta, this is located in the bottom front of the engine area, close to the radiator. It's best reached from underneath the vehicle. You may need to remove part of the air dam, if installed (standard on GTZ/Z26 models with solid front grille). Follow instructions on the kit for proper attachment and re-charge procedure. I highly recommend adding oil to the system first, if the can you are using doesn't contain any.

Remove the glove box. Look under the dash. You should see the ECM inside a plastic enclosure, bolted to the firewall. Remove all bolts, unplug the ECM from the harness, and it will come right out. Install the new ECM in the reverse order to remove the old one.

pull it out?

If you have the Quad Four engine, the coils are located beneath the IDI cover on the top of the engine (large plate that says "Quad Four" on it). Remove the IDI cover, and they are located below.

If you have the 3.1L MPFI V6, the coil packs are located at the front of the engine, below the exhaust manifold, facing the radiator.

When the radiator fans dont stop on the 2003-2005 outlanders is because of a faulty fan module that is located on top of the fans. U have to check if ur vehicle is for recall on such part.

Bacon is shaking (:

Which fuse? Every fuse and circuit breaker (with the exception of two fuses) is located in the panel on the driver's side of the dashboard. You will see it with the driver's door open. The other two fuses (one of which is for the air bag) are located in-line underneath the dash, near the steering column. There are NO fuses in the engine bay.

Wheel alignment should be done by a professional shop. Some places (Town Fair) will not align the rear wheels on a Beretta/Corsica due to ridiculous shop policy, but they canbe done. First, ask around to see if a shop near you installs shims for alignment. Shims of proper size/thickness will need to be installed in specific areas behind the wheel bearings in order to properly adjust the rear wheels. If alignment is extremely out-of-spec, you may have a bad wheel hub, or a bent rear beam. The shop will tell you if this is the case, as they should be replaced.

I hope my answer doesn't keep other people from putting in their input! I replaced the starter once on my INDY Beretta - and it was something I honestly would take to a mechanic if I had to do it again. The starter is mounted on the underside of the engine, (like normal) so you must jack up the car first. I suggest steam-cleaning your engine on top and on the bottom to remove dirt and road grime. This will save you from getting filthy, and finding the correct mounting screws for the starter in the dark. I did this partially in the dark, and so will you. Unless you have a nice lighted garage. Should I go on? Sure, what the heck. Okay, jack your car up. Put jack stands under the frame... wait, Beretta's don't have a frame do they? Okay, put jack stands under the front brace. When you do this, you have about 2 feet of crawl space between the jacks, but hey, you're saving $60 an hour - right? Remove the negative battery terminal. Shimmer under your car and wonder to yourself, "Do I really want to do this?" First, scratch some dirt off the parts you didn't have steam-cleaned, into your eyes. Choke, cough and then swear. Then, get your composure, and grab a wrench. Find the right size (everything on my INDY was Metric - so have fun) and feel your way around the bottom of the starter for two bolts. One is longer than the other, so once you loosen one, the starter should swing to one side, allowing you to find the other one. Remove the positive lead. Remove the other bolt and wait for the starter to drop in your face. Then, gingerly remove the starter while pushing up and back toward the back of the car and it should come right out. Reverse directions to install and ... have fun!

Front of the engine, about half-way down, facing the radiator.

meat

Mine topped out at 124mph.

What engine is it?

In the old Ford 292 series it was a common problem to have the camshaft bearing "turn", blocking the oil line.

The Chev inline 6 used a hollow head bolt that had to be in a specific position to allow pressurized oil to the head. If some other head bolt was put in that position there would be no oil pressure to the rockers.

Check to see the routing of the oil pressure line to the head then backtrack to the most vulnerable position.

http://forum.topspeedautogroup.com/ ask loosenut.