Chevy Blazer

should be..... a jimmy is a blazer with a GMC label on it

In the relay/fuse center under the hood.

The fuel pressure regulator woiuld be located under the upper intake manifold on a 4.3L. It is attached to the bank of injector poppets aka "the spider".

350 turbo

did this last week. its not fun. if you plan on lifting this truck do it now. it took about 6 hours and i basically just did upper and lower, new bearings new halfshats, new brakes and rotors. basically do all of these things while you have it apart just to get it out of the way.

If the brake light fuse is good and the brake light bulbs are good it's probably a faulty brake light switch.

First get the A/C compresser clutch removal tool or loan one at the autoparts store (If they do that in your area), then get the socket you need for the tool (this may vary depending on the tool), you will also need a ratchet (in the same size drive as that socket) you need a boxend wrench (that may also vary depending on your version of the tool), a medium sized flathead screwdriver, a mallet (preferably rubber if not use a block of wood or piece of plastic in between metal and mallet). o.k. you now need a breaker bar and socket that fit the pulley tensioner. Step 1-Take fanbelt off the a/c clutch (and only the a/c clutch you dont need to completley remove it).Step 2- screw the puller/removal tool into the front of the a/c compessor clutch and tighten with the boxend wrench. Step 3- Use the boxend wrench to hold the clutch in place while you use your ratchet and socket to tighten down the removal tool. tighten slowly until the clutch begins to slide off the shaft of the compressor (if it is tough to turn with the ratchet try spraying around the clutch with WD40). Step 4-remove the clutch completley from the vehicle. Step 5-remove the old bushing carefully with your flathead screwdriver. Step 6- Insert new bushing into clutch and seat it (A.K.A tap it into place) with your mallet. Step 7- put clutch back onto compressor shaft and tap gently with mallet till it starts to go on then aplly pressure evenly to front of clutch while you continue to tap it on with your mallet, once it is seated make sure it is back in the original position it was in. Step 8- replace fanbelt. Step 9- pat yourself on the back you did something and saved yourself $75+ an hour.

Down low on pass side. You need to get under the car to see it.

There is a good chance that it takes a standard size socket rather than a metric socket, it was like this on my Toyota Celica. 17mm

The fuel pump and sending tank are integrated into the tank. Drop the tank to remove and replace it as it is located on the top of it.

Located under right kick panel

You have to first detach the steering column and then unbolt the dash. Including a bracket that is way up in the middle of the dash. It is an involved job at first but if you have to do it again it can be done in less than 10 min with the whole dash coming out. Then remove the black plastic cover that is in the middle bottom. This is the cover that is over the heater core. When I put my dash back in it was such a hassle to put that bracket back in that I just left it out. I have not seen any problems with leaving it out.

Align the shift indicator orreplace it. Your problem is strictly column mechanical.

Hey Albert==It is probably in the lock cylinder. You may have to replace it. Get a manual on your car to find out the procedure. Goodluck Joe

remove the little triangle pannel at the front of the door at the top of the trim and there are 3 nuts undo them they are 10mm socket or spanner as simple as that

in the big fuse panel under the hood where is it under the hood

Yes, this is the biggest possible size. 31" will rub at the frame slightly when full steering.

You gotta drop the fuel tank by unloosening the to 2 bolt along with the 2 support straps the fuel pump is rifgt on top of the tank before u drop the tank u gotta make sure all hoses and call wires are disconnected

Your question isn't clear, but I'll offer a few thoughts. There are 2 manifolds, an intake and a exhaust. I'm not sure what you mean by "pan". It is possible that this can set a check engine light if one of the manifolds are cracked. If it is the intake it may be changing the air/fuel mixture or pressure. If it is the exhaust, depending on hte locations of the O2 sensors, it may pick up the wrong O2 content.

4L60/E l

This particular model and year had problems with the lock-up torque converter solenoid going bad. The engine will stall as soon as you stop or put it in gear. If this is what is happening, disconnect the solenoid until you can get it repaired. The engine will run at a slightly higher rpm and will use more fuel, but otherwise it will do no harm for the time being, until you can have it repaired.

well if it is an automatic trans it should take dextron III if its a manual 75w90 of 80w90

Assuming you mean the engine oil drain plug, a 15mm wrench should do the job.

No, they will need replaced if defective.

The fill plug is on the left side of the transfer case. You remove the fill plug, and the fluid should come to the bottom of the fill plug.