Chevy Camaro RS

A 350 .030 over is 355 cid. Chevy made a 348, but that was considered a big block. It was the pre curser to the 409, and was made in the late 50's. A 377, and a 383, are versions of hybrids between the 350, and 400. Cannot say I have heard of that one.

i would say 18-22 pounds. should work fine...

It really depends on the model SS or RS (Super Sport or Rally Sport) Then the multiple options that you can add on..but the base model (cheapest one you can get) is around $22,680. That's the V6 model with the basic stuff. You can add all the features and stuff and get the price up to around $47,000.

I can email you a copy. The firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 with number 1 being the front passenger side. I change my spark plug wires one at a time matching the lengths of the old wires to the new one as close as possible and unplugging and replugging as I go. Works for me! == The firing order is as follows on my Lincoln Mark VIII from front to back 1-2-3-4 on the left side of engine and 5-6-7-8 on the right side. I don't have any wires at all, just individual coil pack mounted on top of each plug. By the way get the best sparks plug for your money double or triple platinum. Also check "Autozone" for your correct firing order. == Platinum spark plugs are the best for your money if your criteria is durability; copper plugs will offer better conductivity but last approximately only 30,000 miles / 2 years.

mine done the same thing it was the camshaft position sencor

i dont think so. more than likely your ce lite is on, and tcs off/tcs lites, too. car is going into "limp home" mode. if you pull your codes, probably 1525/1526 and 1540, which is the vacuum/vent solenoids, and the abv circuit. replace the solenoids, change out your vacuum lines.

push in hard on the bottom of the cushion then pull up

800 RPMS....Newb.

You would be much better off going to the 3.4 if your looking for better performing v-6 because the block is the same as the 2.8 and therefore requires no mounting modifications and will even run off of the exsiting electronics and what not if it is fuel injected

Carbon is built up in the throttle body causing it to stick. Go to parts store and purchase throttle body cleaner. Take off plastic breather connecting to throttle body and spray in side the throttle body.

Your car should adjust to the proper gear it needs when travelling uphill. Usually you need to turn the overdrive off or shift to a lower drive gear when going downhill or towing. That will use the engine to slow the car instead of your brakes. That way they don't overheat to the point of not working.

Open drivers side door an look at the side of the dash. Easy access location and if it was a snake it would have bit ya....

Your flasher relay is shot and you need a new one.

feet

no you don't have to. you will need to remove the top steering colum cover and bring down the bottom one just a bit. there are 4 screws holding it together. remove those, separate the covers. now just remove the 2 small screws holding the switch in, slide the switch out and disconnect the connectors.

Hello,

I own a 2000 Saturn SL1 that needs a lock cylinder and lock housing replacement due to the passlock light remaining "on" and due to the lock cylinder binding. Ultimately, the whole passlock system has to be reprogrammed and replaced with a new lock cylinder and housing. Moreover, this is related to a computer communications error, thus the computer may need replacement as well

Based on prices in the Chicago, IL metropolitan area, the following is a list of parts outlined in my service repair workup:

1. 21060165 lock housing, $105.20

2. ignition lock cylinder

21170863 key asm-d, $20.00

15841209 cylinder, $75.57

3. 19115365 module as, $370.55 (computer related)

These are parts only and do not include prices for repair or labor charges. In any case my total repair bill totaled $1331.10.

There are two ways I would approach this. If I was just want to get some something bad or just a name removed you can just have a tatoo artist do what they call as a "cover up" tatoo. If you are wanting to get rid of the tatoo all together then the best approach would be to have the tattoo lasered off. I have seen tats removed like this and it isn't too bad. There will a slight scar there, but it is better than some of the tattoos people get when they were younger and not so wise. I am sure there are other ways that may be cheaper, but these are the two methods that I have personally seen. I hope this helps some. Good luck.

It should be around 160 mph with a stock LS1.

The RS is a "cosmetic package" with hideaway headlights, mark lights were moved. The SS package was a "performance package" either came with a 295hp/350 or a 325/350/375hp 396.

you must have the leak stopped! it's more than likely either the front or rear seal!

You must remove the muffler and/or catback. Unbolt the panhard bar, and the brace bar, remove the gas cap, unbolt the gas tank, and pull the tank out. (sometimes you must bend the filler neck slightly to get it out, and bend it back one it is back in) Remove the screw on cap with hammer and screwdriver or equivelant, and carefully pull out the pump and replace as installed, REMEMBER HOW IT GOES! Sometimes, if the car has been sitting, the pump may still be okay, but the rubber hose the connects the pump to the pickup line will rot, but once you get everything out, it's always good to replace it while your in there. Also make sure you dump out any bad gas, or sediment in the gas tank. Hope this helps.

its not easy but you will need a hoist. if its a 5.7L you,ll have to take down the egshaust, you'll also have to take out the engine mount and the starter. you'll need a 5/8ths spark plug socket, a stubby rachet and a normal rachet with a coulple of extension.you'll aslo need a lot of paitents

Yes.

2000 Camaro SS - I removed just the first panel under the steering column and found the small, metal turn signal flasher just to the right of the panel I removed. It was hidden mostly from view and clipped to next molding piece to the right. I replace this original metal flasher with a new heavy duty flasher and my sluggish turn signals are acting normal again!

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The response below is not accurate, because the Haynes manual for Camaros 1993 - 2000 is not accurate in regards to the location of the blinker (flasher) relay!! The small, silver cannister to the left of the steering column is for the hazard lights only. The relay for the blinkers is actually to the right of the steering column at the very bottom of the dash compartment. Imagine running a line straight up from the gas pedal into the dash compartment beneath the steering wheel. Look for (at least on my 1995) two wires running into a red, plastic connector toward the front of the dash frame. That connector is what plugs into the flasher unit (which is completely hidden from view by the plastic dash-frame around it). Pulling up on the connector will pull the flasher relay out of its compartment. It is a round, aluminum cannister, and it looks just about identical to the one for the hazard lights. The old part removed was a Wagner 224.

I someone else out there! I Googled the heck out of this and nobody has the real answer--so I had to take apart the dash and follow the line from the back of the fuse down to the relay before finally finding it. By the way, the unit I replaced it with came from Advanced Auto Parts, and it is a Tridon Stant EL12 UPC# 020637303039. It works great!

Thanks to the poster above, helped me out imensely. I found this to be right on the money for a '99 V6 also. For those who don't like to work by braile, or hannging upside down under the dash (oh the head rush!), I found removing the plastic pannel directly under the steering wheel (the one that is the same color as the dash not the black ABS pannel) helped me spot the red connector with ease. It is attached with two Phillips screws and two small hex bolts. Removing just the Phillips screws and one bolt on the right gave me enough room to spot it. The relay is clipped on to a metal strut running from the OBDC II connector up twards the radio. It was about half way up attached with a speed clip

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Likewise, this was very helpful in finding the flasher on my 2002 Camaro. In order to spot mine, I needed to remove both cover panels that conceal the steering column... the one that holds the trunk release button, and the one under the dash. This required a Philips screwdriver, a 7mm socket, and a pair of pliers.

"The turn signal flasher, a small cannister-shaped unit located under the dash, in a clip to the left of the steering column...to replace the flasher, simply unplug it and pull it out of the clip...installation is the reverse of removal." -Haynes Manual