Chevy Camaro RS

You have to deliver instant torque to the crankshaft bolt via an electric impact wrench with the proper socket attached or an air impact wrench. Keep the belts attached also helps too. But remember that once you have loosened the pulley you need to take proper care as the belts are probably under tension and that needs to be taken care of safely. Hope this helps. One way to prevent the engine from turning over is to turn the engine over by hand to the start of the compression stroke on any cylinder then fill that cylinder with oil and put the spark plug back in. That creates a condition of "hydraulic lock.

I don't beleve that there is a relay for the injectors. The system has a fuse. If you use a test light check to see if you have 12v on one side of the plug. If so your problem is with the pcm. Injectors are controlled by ground pulses from the computer.

get a job to pay for the stuff u need is the first step get a job to pay for the stuff u need is the first step

Disconnect the car battery's negative cable to prevent damage, shorts, etc. To be safe, block the rear wheels so that the car will not roll back or forward while you're working. Don't block the front wheels because you'll be turning the steering wheel later on.

Note: to help yourself throughout this job, you may need to raise or lower ("tilt") the steering column to make it easier to undo and attach pieces. I don't know if any L-series Saturns have non-tilting steering columns.

Using proper size socket and Torx drivers, remove the 3 screws (the center screw takes the socket and the two outer screws take the Torx drivers) that are on the underneath side of the cover that encloses the turn-signal/headlight switch (and the ignition switch on the other side, as well as other fun stuff associated w/ the steering column!). Unsnap the top half of this two-piece cover from the bottom by wiggling it, etc till the pieces separate. If your hands are big enough, you can grab the bottom with one hand and the top with the other (like the steering column is a neck and you're trying to strangle it! - see, humor, too!) and pull in opposite directions while you squeeze the top part from the sides. The "beauty ring" that goes around the ignition switch will pop out, too, when the two pieces separate and expose all of the stuff.

Unplug the wiring plug assembly from the body of the switch - there's a locking tab to press out of the way. There are two little tabs of plastic on the left side of the headlight/turn signal switch itself - they're on the end nearer to the steering wheel itself - one is on top and one on the bottom. Squeeze the two tabs toward each other (your left hand works perfectly for this job)and rock/jiggle the switch. The whole switch assembly and turn signal "arm" come out as a unit towards the left, or away from the steering column. If it seems jammed, wiggle the tabs a little from side to side (or up and down) while pulling on the turn signal "arm." (If you grab this arm with the three other fingers and your palm on the hand you're squeezing the tabs with, you'll have some leverage to help you wiggle if need be.) Mine took a little persuasion of this type to get mine out, by the way.

Install the new assembly by sliding it into place (there are guides on the switch that slide into grooves in the black plastic backing "plate" that the switch snaps into) and pressing till you hear the little tabs lock it into place. Connect the wiring plug. After you're sure that everything is attached at this point, reconnect the battery cable and make sure that everything works. Don't forget to test the turn signals as far as making sure that the turn signal "cancels" - you might want to start the car, signal a left turn, turn the wheel a revolution to the left, then turn it back towards the "neutral" position to make sure that the turn signal arm moves back to the middle position and the turn signal indicator on the dash stops flashing. Do the same for the right side, but obviously, you'll fake a turn to the right and then go back left to "neutral" to check for canceling, etc. While you're at it, make sure that the headlights, parking lamps, highlights and day running lights are working, as well as making sure that the indicators on the dash are working correctly, too.

Turn the car off, and reassemble the two cover halves together (it's best to attach the bottom one first, tightening the 3 screws only partially till you've got the top attached). Also, make sure that the foam rubber "boot" on the arm stays inside of the cover halves as you assemble them. Note that there are little "posts" on one half of this cover that fit matching holes on the other part - you need to plug these together correctly - and the cover will snap back together and the gap between the two halves will be completely gone. Now snap the ring around the ignition switch into its proper place - note that it's "keyed" so that it'll have the positions correctly oriented with respect to OFF ACC ON START, or whatever.

After these are all in place, tighten up the 3 screws on the bottom.

Just to be sure, make sure everything still works AFTER you've done the above. This includes making sure that the column still adjusts up and down as before, and that the steering wheel will turn freely from lock to lock (you'll need to start the car to do this last thing). When you're done, turn the car off, remove the keys and pull the blocks out from the rear wheels.

The whole job takes maybe 20 minutes and it saved ME $160 in labor! This was done in August, 06 and the switch cost less than $50.

************SHORT VERSION== Go to an authorized dealer. Tell them what you want to do. Ask them if they have a computer or MicroFiche exploded diagram of the assembly you will be taking apart. Ask if they can print out any relevant pictures or information, even if there's a small fee. If someone is there who can point to the diagram and walk you thru what's involved, it will be much easier. Don't get sidetracked with extraneous knowledge; all you're doing is this one task-stick to specifics. Take notes if need be. Find out what special fasteners and related removal tools are involved, and if anything, like rivets, need to be destroyed for removal: you'll need to have replacements for re-assembly. Just remember: it was broke when you tried to fix it; it can be broke if you still end up having to take it to the dealer to have THEM fix it!

I like flowmaster 3" with super 44 mufflers.

it has 170 hp at low rpms and 255 at 4,000 rpm

Bad alternater and bad(low viscosity) oil.

4 cylinder : 2.3 L (4.8 pts.)

6 cylinder : 1.98 L (4.2 pts.)

NO it will not.

Trouble code P1133 means: HO2S-11 (Bank 1 Sensor 1) Insufficient Switching

The crow bar has been used in many burglaries but for the most part it is used for general demolition, for removing nails, and prying apart boards. It is also very useful in taking out and removing roof shingles. The prybar is commonly used because it is a tool you must have if you plan on doing any sort of extensive renovation - especially if it requires any sort of ripping-out, tearing-down, or prying-loose objects.

Basically, one cylinder isn't firing for one of a number of reasons. The most common cause is an igntion fault. This will cause the engine to feel and sound "lumpy", and the power would be greatly reduced. The best way to find the cylinder which is responsible is quite simple but care must be taken. Firstly if you hate electric shocks as much as I do, find a proper pair of electricians insulated pliers, and even some decent rubber gloves if you can aswell. Start the engine, and one at a time, use the pliers to remove a lead from the top of one spark plug, if the engine almost stops, or gets worse in any way, it is not that piston which isn't firing. Repeat the proccess, one at a time, you will know which piston ISNT firing when you remove the plug lead, and there is no change in the engine sound, this is your defective cylinder. Its just a case then of looking at the condition of the spark plug and asessing the cause of the misfire before carrying out repairs. BEWARE:- THE LEADS WHICH CONNECT TO THE SPARK PLUGS CARRY SEVERAL THOUSANDS OF VOLTS - HENCE RUBBER GLOVES AND INSULATED PLIERS

I have the same problem from time to time with my 1999 Wrangler Sport. The speedometer will display "no buss". I've been told it is a bad connection on the instrument panel.

Personally, I solve the problem by giving the dashboard a rap right above the panel. Not very scientific, but it works every time.

I had that problem repaired. It is a faulty wire connection, there is a certain wiring harness needs to be replaced. Mine was replaced under recall I think. I didn't pay for it at the dealership. Most dealerships should be well aware of this problem now.

Well, I had to replace my light switch/dimmer/cruise stalk once. I think your job will be similar. First, you have to remove the shroud around the steering column. It comes apart in two haves, top and bottom, by taking out the two Torx screws from the bottom. Those screws are really long, so believe me when I tell you, that if you don't already own a set of Torx tools, buy the ones that are A. long and B. have T handles. If I recall correctly, the switch swap is pretty direct. There are 3 screws to remove, and a wiring harness to unplug. Take note of how and where the harness connector is located and be sure to duplicate it's position when you install. (installation is just the reverse of removal) I didn't bother worrying about my air bag, but the Haynes manual suggests that you disable the airbag. Airbag disable, per Haynes; remove negative battery cable, Make sure that the steering wheel is is in the straight ahead position, Place the ignition switch key in the Lock position and remove the key. Remove the airbag fuse from the fuse block I don't think that having Tilt will affect the job. Hope this helps. If not, let us know and we'll delve into your problem further FriPilot

silver spark plugs cold air in take performance exhaust new rear end preferrablya positraction rear end new stronger transmission gears and all new performance engine components would help alot

Fuel filter could be clogged, try fuel injection cleaner if it runs better then it is a clogged fuel filter. Keep in mind you might have to pump the gas pedal to keep it running.

did you check the speed sensor on the side of the transmission?

check the vats on your key and the ignition switch. anti theft devise goes the security light comes on in the dash

hydralic lifters

On the transmission itself. It has an electrical connection going to it. You have to raise the car, safely, to see it. Make sure to disconnect the negative battery cable.

Disconnect the electrical connector, remove the retaining bolt, have a pan to catch the tranny fluid that comes out, remove and discard the o-ring.

When installing a new one, make sure to lube the new o-ring with transmission fluid before you tighten it.

Taken straight from a Chilton's manual.

It's located on the passenger side head. Let me tell you, it's very delicate and breaks easily.

the difference wasn't too much the rs was just your basic model some with a low performance Chevy 307 and the basic 350 but on the ss models came with all the hp engines better handling package's some came different interior options as far as gauges instead of dummy light"s etc.SS's also came with the rally wheel's intsead of hubcap's SS was just another name for performance package.

There is not a separate cooling fan sensor, it controlled by the ECM which get it's reading from the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor)