Chevy Cheyenne

In 1996

You park it in front of the Nissan service department nearest your home, find the first employee and say, Yo man. This thing is less than a year old. You need to hook me up with a new grab handle on this dog. That should take care of it.

take all the wiring and hoses loose from the top of the engine, and you might have to remove the valve covers. then just loosen the intake manifold bolts

It is screewed into the front Differential, towards passenger side but in the middle of the housing.

No you cant,, find dually spacers off the front axle from a Dodge dually from i think 94-98 bolt those on the front axle of your Chevy,, or find Chevy hubs

First thing that comes to mind, fuel pump.

just third gear most likely trans damaged could be dragging clutch if in other gears also

The short answer is yes. The basic engine is the same and simply involves swapping the flywheel and clutch assemby, or flexplate and torque converter, to the other engine. If your Montero is an automatic, you need to retain the intake manifold. There is a mounting stud to hold the cable from the trans to the carb that is not on the manual transsion intake.

If you are going from automatic to manual there is a multitude of parts to make the clutch work and you really need a donor car for that purpose, at least it would make it easier.

Trust me on this...it's easier to change the parts before you install the engine.

When cold, the alternator produces more electrical energy to recharge the battery. After things warm up a little, the electrical energy drops back to maintenance mode, producing enough energy to operate all of your electrical component and maintain the charge level of the battery. At that point you'll see a drop on the gauge. Also, any device which turns on suddenly will cause the voltage level to drop briefly. It's normal and unless you are unable to start the vehicle in the morning or see the gauge in the red area, or the yellow area for an extended period, you're probably ok.

Remove the 2 torx head bolts, using a T-30 torx bit, holding the handle housing in place. Using a small knife or utility knife, gently score around the handle housing releasing the small bead of caulk or glue. Pull housing away from the door jam just enough to get your fingers or needle nose pliers on the plastic push pins. Squeeze the push pins, then push through the hole. Remove the housing from the door and tap out the pin with a nail or punch, from the bottom. Install new handle, reinsert pin. Reinstall the housing by reversing the above instructions. Please note: Do not use OEM or Aftermarket plastic handles! They will just break again. There are several Billet Aluminum Handles available now that will last the life of your vehicle. Just go to any search engine and type in 3rd door handle. These fit all S-10's and Sonoma's from 1996-2003! Good Luck!!

If it is on the right side of the truck, back of the engine, after using the A/C it might be the condense water from A/C. It tends to drip on the chassis first and then on the floor, quite a lot though, but harmless.

maybe 35

check out wynjammer or procharger

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

If you mean that the shaft won't turn while the engine is cranking then check the following: Your pinion gear is stripped or the roll pin on the pinion gear is sheared...or... I'm willing to bet that your distributor is not fully seated into its socket and the pinion gear is not engaging--if the distributor doesn't seat all the way, it could be that the oil pump shaft has not engaged properly into the end of the distributor shaft and it is keeping it from seating...if this is the case, then rotate the distributor shaft by hand by turning the rotor until it catches the oil pump shaft then rotate it backwards, past the initial timing mark until the pinion hits the right position so the rotor lines up with the timing mark when the distributor is fully seated (this can take a little trial-and-error to get it ligned up right). If you mean that the whole distributor won't turn (while you are trying to set the timing) then you probably haven't sufficiently loosened the clamping bolt or you are not applying enough force.

It is beneath the cab on the passenger side in front of transmission

I own a '96 Chevy Lumina that has the same problem and it sounds like it is a fairly common problem. I don't actually have the solution, however I know that if I turn the car to the on position and sit for a couple of minutes, then try and crank it over, it will magically start. I was thinking maybe there is just a bad connection or wire somewhere in the ignition system.

Yes and you will find it behind a black plastic cover that is bolted to the passenger side fire wall with 3 plastic nuts holding the cover in place. The fuel pump fuse and relay is behind that cover.

Where is heater core located on 92 chev

What is the ACDelco spark plug number fora Cheverlot Cheyenne 2500 truck?

No it will not; Need to check MAP sensor, coolant sensor, fuel pressure regurlator

Mass air flow sensor if it has one.

IS CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ON ??? If so scan engine with scanner. GOOD LUCK.

This is not possible with a standard install of Windows. The clock on the task bar shows up in a digital format only. There may be some third party software that would change this but I'm not aware of any.

Here is a list of some of the best life kits in the business. They all make a kit for you truck, it really just matters what you price range is. Take a look at: Skyjacker Ranchero Superlift Fabtect

No,It is ahydraulic clutch, try to bleed the unit first and see if that helps.

I have a 1983 GMC Sierra it has no dash,tail lights an brake lights are very dim