Chevy Cheyenne

Pull the torque convertor out, they are on the front of the tranny inside the bell housing.

Start clockwise: firing order is 18436572

If its the base model it has 300HP, but if its the ZR1 model, it has 405HP.

it could be a faulty alternator bring on all lights

From 88 to 99 will interchange.

If the air conditioning light is blinking on a 1992 Chevy Pickup, it is possible that the Freon is low in the air conditioning system. it is also possible for this light to blink when the radiator fluid is low or there is a problem with the air conditioning belt running the pump.

Type your answer here... Remove the plastic cover under the glove box, if equipped and remove the 2 small screws in the resistor and unplug the wire. Very simple job.

VERY tough LT1 was never offered in that truck so you have to use "trail and error" to find motor mounts, radiator, hoses, computer and wiring harness to make it run plus the V6 transmission wont hold up to the power of this V8 A better option is to buy all the parts from a wrecked 88'-'95 pickup or SUV and transplant everything This way you'll have a V8 and wont have to swap the dash, guages,and updated computer controls If you want a newer engine like the Vortec '96-'98, You'll need the whole wrecked truck and swap the guages, DLC(OBDII scanner connecter) the dash and wiring, electronic transmission, and ABS module and sensors, including the rear axle for the traction control/ABS Like I said VERY tough Stick with the '88-'95 and you'll buy replacement parts for a '90 with a V8

He hasn't been charged with anything. The trial Hasn't even begun yet.

In 1996

You park it in front of the Nissan service department nearest your home, find the first employee and say, Yo man. This thing is less than a year old. You need to hook me up with a new grab handle on this dog. That should take care of it.

take all the wiring and hoses loose from the top of the engine, and you might have to remove the valve covers. then just loosen the intake manifold bolts

It is screewed into the front Differential, towards passenger side but in the middle of the housing.

No you cant,, find dually spacers off the front axle from a Dodge dually from i think 94-98 bolt those on the front axle of your Chevy,, or find Chevy hubs

First thing that comes to mind, fuel pump.

just third gear most likely trans damaged could be dragging clutch if in other gears also

The short answer is yes. The basic engine is the same and simply involves swapping the flywheel and clutch assemby, or flexplate and torque converter, to the other engine. If your Montero is an automatic, you need to retain the intake manifold. There is a mounting stud to hold the cable from the trans to the carb that is not on the manual transsion intake.

If you are going from automatic to manual there is a multitude of parts to make the clutch work and you really need a donor car for that purpose, at least it would make it easier.

Trust me on this...it's easier to change the parts before you install the engine.

When cold, the alternator produces more electrical energy to recharge the battery. After things warm up a little, the electrical energy drops back to maintenance mode, producing enough energy to operate all of your electrical component and maintain the charge level of the battery. At that point you'll see a drop on the gauge. Also, any device which turns on suddenly will cause the voltage level to drop briefly. It's normal and unless you are unable to start the vehicle in the morning or see the gauge in the red area, or the yellow area for an extended period, you're probably ok.

Remove the 2 torx head bolts, using a T-30 torx bit, holding the handle housing in place. Using a small knife or utility knife, gently score around the handle housing releasing the small bead of caulk or glue. Pull housing away from the door jam just enough to get your fingers or needle nose pliers on the plastic push pins. Squeeze the push pins, then push through the hole. Remove the housing from the door and tap out the pin with a nail or punch, from the bottom. Install new handle, reinsert pin. Reinstall the housing by reversing the above instructions. Please note: Do not use OEM or Aftermarket plastic handles! They will just break again. There are several Billet Aluminum Handles available now that will last the life of your vehicle. Just go to any search engine and type in 3rd door handle. These fit all S-10's and Sonoma's from 1996-2003! Good Luck!!

If it is on the right side of the truck, back of the engine, after using the A/C it might be the condense water from A/C. It tends to drip on the chassis first and then on the floor, quite a lot though, but harmless.

maybe 35

check out wynjammer or procharger

1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

If you mean that the shaft won't turn while the engine is cranking then check the following: Your pinion gear is stripped or the roll pin on the pinion gear is sheared...or... I'm willing to bet that your distributor is not fully seated into its socket and the pinion gear is not engaging--if the distributor doesn't seat all the way, it could be that the oil pump shaft has not engaged properly into the end of the distributor shaft and it is keeping it from seating...if this is the case, then rotate the distributor shaft by hand by turning the rotor until it catches the oil pump shaft then rotate it backwards, past the initial timing mark until the pinion hits the right position so the rotor lines up with the timing mark when the distributor is fully seated (this can take a little trial-and-error to get it ligned up right). If you mean that the whole distributor won't turn (while you are trying to set the timing) then you probably haven't sufficiently loosened the clamping bolt or you are not applying enough force.

It is beneath the cab on the passenger side in front of transmission