Chevy Corsica

Australian Bureau of Statistics

unhook the wire, screw the whole sensor out then thread the new one in and hook up the wire

I believe it is under the air filter housing.

hi with cars ive had in past that cause of engine over run is mostly caused by the timing being over advanced.hope that has been some help alan.dawson.74@hotmail.com

there is no distributor. it uses coil packs and control modules

Probably because you're not looking in the right place. Have you consulted the car's owner's manual? Check for the fuse box in the glove box, carefully under the dash and behind the steering column, and along the floor where your feet are at when you're sititng in the front seat.

Defective cooling fan or thermal switch.

(NEW ANSWER) First check and make sure you have enough coolant in the radiator....normally about two gallons...nothing less(when the radiator is empty).....if you check your coolant level and it is low....add coolant...not water!!!....if it still overheats when sitting, either your thermostat is not opening when at the set temperature....in which case you will have to replace the thermostat....or the cooling fan isn't comming on at the set temperature in which case you will have to replace either the fan switch or fan relay. If you suspect the cooling fan, replace the fan switch first and fan relay last. But if the corrisca is overheating and the cooling fan is comming...then you can rule out the cooling fan and look towards the thermostat being the problem.

MY CORSICA, 1993 3.1 L IS FAMOUS FOR GOING THRU COIL PACKS, I KNOW IT'S BACKWARDS BUT I START WITH THE COIL PACKS AND WORK MY THRU THE TROUBLE SHOOTING STEPS, 9 TIMES OUT OF TEN I HAVE REPLACED THE COIL PACKS. CHEVY LOCATED THEM IN A POOR PLACE. TIM

nss is located on driver side look under where you fill up your brake fluid you will see the gear shifter bar there and nss is located right on it

Hey Richard==It is quite involved but if you want to try it get a manual on your car. It will have pictures and everything. GoodluckJoe

Replacing the head gasket on any vehicle is a long and complicated process, however if you wish to see basic step-by-step instructions go to the related question on the right side of the page "How do you replace a head gasket?"

It sounds like it might actually be the ignition switch.

Try local police dept. or Locksmith

First drain the Rad of all the old fluid, refill it with water and simple green, should be about 1/3 simple green and 2/3, maybe 1/4 and 3/4....close enough. start the car and let it run cap off, it will get to normal operating temp, you may need to add just a little bit more. put the cap on and let it run for 10-15 minutes. then shut the car off and drain the solution. fill it back up with your antifreez and water and run it! 1/3 simple green and 2/3 water. (must of backspaced the water part)

Not a fun or cheap job but it can be done. You could get an A/C add on kit from your local auto parts store but suggest you get everything from a wrecking yard instead.

that's easy...if there is an airbag on the steering wheel, remove it bull unbolting the 4 tiny bolts on the backside. get a steering wheel puller, insert it and keep tightenting the puller till the steering wheel comes off. there will be a little clip hold back a plate. compress the the plate, preferable with a special spring compressor made to fit a steering sheft thread, and pull the clip. a special clip separator plier might be needed, or two metal picks will do fine. remove the plate after pulling compressor off. another plate behind it might need to be pulled off, unless changing the turn signal switch also. may be a good chance to do it anyway since youre going through all the trouble. ignition switch will be right there. total time it took for me to do my turn signal switch was arouind 1 to 1.5 hours. shouldn't take any longer if these directions are followed properly. if the second plate does need to come of there is a metal o-ring holding the second plate. it will need to be pulled out and around the steering shaft.

If there are two conductors leading to the switch, just disconnect them both from the switch, strip them to the bare wire, and short them together. If that doesn't work, tape them apart and try that. If there is only one conductor leading to the switch, it either needs to be stripped and bolted directly to the transaxle body, or disconnected and isolated completely. Y'know, that switch is there for a damned good reason. Have ya tried just replacing the switch? Just don't start the car in gear PLEASE. Is it automatic? Make sure your PNRDL stick ain't lying to you.

The brake lines on a 96 Corsica can be fixed by replacing damaged sections with new lines. This will improve braking and prevent catastrophic failures.

Correction: It is a 1995 Chevy Corsica. Not a 1996.

Much of the dashboard must be disassembled, particularly in the passenger's foot area. The heater core is located inside the air box, which is mounted to the inside of the firewall. This is a very difficult job for an inexperienced person, this should take a mechanic shop anywhere from 3-6 hours to complete.

LOG ON TO ALLDATA.COM, JOIN IT! IT'S AN ONLINE TECH MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. IT WILL HELP YOU DTERMINE THE CORRECT FIRING ORDER FOR YOUR CORSICA. COIL [PACKS ARE LOCATED UNDER YOUR FRONT EXHAUST MANIFOLD FIRING ORDER IS 5-2-3-6-4-1.

"Through" would mean that the air comes in one opening and out the other. Your digestive tract would meet that definition better than your respiratory system would. Of course, a penetrating wound could provide two openings through which air might pass.

I'm assuming that you already have the serpentine belt off. its the smooth pulle, and bracket. located the pulley, and on either side there should be a bolt remove the bolts and pull off.

steer the wheel to the right. for a better veiew.look under the panel, locate the tensioner it has a screw in the middle. you probably need a wrench.

FOLLOW YOUR UPPER RADIATOR HOSE TO THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING SENSOR IS UNDER THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING. FACING TOWARDS DRIVER IT TAKES A 3/4 WRENCH YOU NEED TO PULL AIR CLEANER OFF THERE IS AN ELECTRIAL CONNECTOR GET A SMALL FLAT BLADE SCREW DRIVER TO RELEASE IT . LOOK OUT THINGS ARE TIGHT. YOU CAN GET GOING UNDER TWENTY BUCKS.

atpump one line should be a threaded male ferrule connection ( pressure outlet ) your pump should have a matching female threaded hole in it the other line is just aslip on type hose with clamp their should be a nipple on the pump this slips onto with clamp to secure it ( this is lo pressire or retun, suction for pump the other end connect to the rack and pinion steering unit ( usually on firewall behind engine connection points are usually on drivers side of rack (look through opening in fender well behind drivers side front wheel should be able to see them there access to them is a real bear but canbe reached (18 mm wrench) on my sons 94 top line on rack was return line bottom was pressure outlet . hope this helps