Chevy G20

The computer is located under the drivers seat look under you going to see a flat black box and at the bottom of that box it should say real big COMPUTER good luck chevy G20 owner in Queens, New york

I have a '94 C20 van with a 4.3. If it won't run, have someone turn on the switch to see if you can hear the pump in the tank. If not, repeat the same thing but listen to the relay (mounted on the firewall above the radiator). If that doesn't make a click noise with the switch on, check the 20 amp fuse on the fuse box (driver's side under the dash). If all else fails, you'll need to drop the tank and pull the sending unit assembly. Pull the pump and check it with 12 Volts (two top terminals). If the pump doesn't start then, replace it along with the strainer assembly. The relay is around $12.00, the pump is around $60.00, the trainer is under $15.00 and at worse case, the entire sending unit is around $160.00. If a shop does all of the troubleshooting, they'll usually want to replace everything which can be between $750 to $1,200 total (depending on their honesty and their hourly rates).

Good luck!

There are many different variations on equipment that determine different routings for the belt. What size engine and what equipment is on yours? Power Steering? Air Conditioner? That kind of stuff.

On the chance it might be a 5.7L (350 cubic inches) V8, with P/S & A/C and has an alternator and P/S pump on the driver side, the A/C compressor on the passenger side, here goes:

If you're facing the van, standing in front of it, driver side on your right:

The crankshaft pulley is the bottom most pulley and is in the center. Immediately above that is the water pump and slightly lower and to the right might be the P/S pump. Up top on the left is the A/C compressor pulley, the tensioner is in the center and the alternator is on the right.

One thing to remember: you have to use a long handled socket on the tensioner to get the belt to fit. It's best to route the belt all the way around all the pulley's except for the alternator and save it for last. Then while applying a lot of pressure on the tensioner, you can place the belt over the alternator pulley. A picture would be easier, but I don't have access to do that right now.

The belt goes around and under the crankshaft pulley. Starting with the right hand side of the belt coming from the bottom of the crankshaft pulley, the path goesto the left of the water pump pulley, around the top of it and down under the power steering pump pulley, all the way up and to the right of the alternator pulley and over the top of it, then down under the tensioner pulley and over the top of the air conditioner compressor pulley whereupon it returns to the left side of the crankshaft pulley.

yes it was

they are located all over the engine. There are some located up each side of the engine block(usually 3 up each side), there is ususally one in the back of the engine block indide the bellhousing(it is necessary to remove the transmission to access that one), and there should be one at each end of each cylinder head. Freeze plugs are simply round discs, some about the size of a quarter, some about the size of a fifty-cent piece, that are escape routes for frozen water, if the coolant in the engine ever freezes, it will pop out a freeze plug before it will break the block or crack the head. Some are ususally easy to see, some are incredibly difficult to access. You need to figure out which one(s) is/are leaking, clear anything in the way(could be motor mounts, starter, or even transmission) to gain access. Once access is gained, use a screwdriver and a hammer to LIGHTLY tap the freeze plug free. Once loose, use whatever means to grab it and hook it out. You can usually grab it with pliers. To install a new one, lightly coat the ede of the new freeze plug with lock-tite, or some kind of thread-locker. Find a socket that just fits inside of the freeze plug and use your hammer to firmly, but evenly tap the new plug into place. You want to tap it in until the edge of the plug is pretty much even with the outside of the engine metal surface.

Engine idle too high.

MAKE SURE MATER CYLINDER IS BENCH BLED PRIOR TO INSTALLATION Remove old master cylinder by removing brake lines, electrical connection

Remove mounting bolts

Slide off activating rod Replace in reverse procedure

May not have to bleed entire system is master was bled properly

You should find it up high on the firewall on the passenger side, there will be two relays there, if I remember correctly it will be the one closest to the fender.

I have a 1991 and my tire size is 225/75/R15.

an 18 wheeler does not use gas.it uses diesel.now the tanks can hold anywhere from 60 gallons to 200 gallons each most trucks have a tank on each side so if they are 200 gallon tanks, the 18 wheeler can carry 400 gallons of fuel when full All new trucks are equipped with dual fuel tanks for balance--if you had only one tank the truck's steering would be different with a full tank than with an empty one. They come in three sizes: 100 gallons, 150 gallons and 200 gallons. Fleet drivers' trucks have 100-gallon tanks, and we refuel every day. Independents usually run 200-gallon tanks, but I think if I had my own rig I'd have 100-gallon tanks.

NO You can not. The compurter and wreing harness in the 1990 will not hook up are even shift the 4L60E transmission. You MUST put the 700R4 back in it.

no

Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes will reset the computer on most models. If this does not work then your vehicles computer has the ability to hard set a check engine code and requires a special tool to reset the code.

it leaks because the super glue holding it in place wears off over time. best solution is to add more glue, preferably gorrilla glue.

The bearing may have excess play and the old seal can't keep up with it.

NEW ANSWER: All things wear out. But check these things when you replace the seal. #1 The vent tube on the rear end housing may be stopped up.

#2 To much gear oil will also make them leak.

#3 The axel shaft may have a groove worn it it were the seal rides on

on it.

#4 You did not give the year of the truck and that would help us

answer your question. but i do no that chevy and some after market places have a nice replacement bearing that works well and stops alot of seals from leaking. Good luck and thank you.

400 ci spark plug r-46ts spark plug gap .040 point dwell 28 to 32 point gap .016 ignition timing 12b fuel pump pressure 5 to 6 1/2 idle speed 650

Follow the upper radiator coolant hose and where it meets the engine the thermostat is under the little neck. It should be 2 or 3 bolts to remove it make sure to se a new gasket and put the new thermostat in the right way and use sealant on the gasket as well as the bolt threads. Make sure to put the sealant on the INSIDE of the bolt holes on the gasket not all the way around them or it might leak. Also don't use 4 lbs of sealant for one gasket

Starting from the front (the front is where your radiator fan is located) driver side (#1 cylinder), it alternates back and forth. I.e.-#1 is front driver side, #2 is front passenger side, #3 is behind #1, #4 is behind #2, etc. Basically, from front to back on the driver side, the cylinders are #1, #3, and #5, and from front to back on the passenger side the cylinders are #2, #4, and #6.

Air flow is controlled by plastic doors which are controlled by vacume motors.

Could be they're stuck, or a vacume leak.

curb weight on an 88 g20 chevy cargo van

Your fuel pump is actually an electronic pump which is located inside your fuel tank because that year was fuel injected. Hope your tank isn't too full because you will have to take it out of the vehicle to access it.

If it is a 5.0L engine to my knowledge it can't be done. No bypass pulley is made for this engine. If you try to use a non-A/C belt, or simply a shorter belt it will approach the tensioner at an angle that won't let the tensioner apply pressure. The belt will just flop around. If you find a way I would be happy to know about it. I would like to do the same, but no luck.

-Mark

You can check the temp. gauge operation by removing the temp. gauge sending unit plug and touching it to any engine ground with ignition on but the Van not running.

The gauge will go to hot right away, if it is working.

The temp. gauge sending unit is located on the drivers side of the engine at midpoint just below the exhaust manifold. It will have a single wire running to it and be plugged into the sending unit.

It should be under the dash and it will be round and look some what like a cap. ----- Additional info by RFXK (10/18/06) - There are two flasher units on mid-1990's G20 vans. One is hard-mounted on the right-hand side of the fuse box. This is the flasher that controls the turn signals. The fuse box is on the inside wall under the driver's side of the dash, to the left of the steering column and to the right of the emergency brake. It's easy enough to see when you get down there. The second flasher is on a two wire harness hanging down about 4 inches in front of, and about 2 inches above, the fuse box. Again, it's not mounted on anything, it's just hanging down. You have to get down under the dash with a flashlight to see it. This second flasher controls the emergency flashers only. Both flashers take the same type of flasher unit. The factory installed flashers are USUALLY a small, aluminum-cased cylinder about an inch in diameter and an inch high. There MAY be a blue or yellow stripe on the housing, which represents the rating of the flasher (heavier duty flashers are needed for towing packages). I think the blue-striped one is the heavier duty one, but I'm not sure. Note that many people replace their flasher units with much heavier duty electronic flashers - Triton is a popular one you see on vans all the time. These are usually a little bigger, and often are encased in dark plastic, not metal. Despite its futuristic appearance, it's just another flasher. But if you're towing or have lots of extra turn signal lights that you've installed, it's probably worth the few more bucks to install one of these instead.

Did you check for a blown fuse?

Three plus Overdrive