Chevy Impala

how do you program keyless entry remote for 2008 Chevy impala

For the LT it's on page 3-48 of the "Owner's Manual", (relearn remote key) done thru the Vehicle Information button of the Driver Information Center...

Having owned several 66s sense 66 I can tell you that B bodies (Caprice Impala Belair and Biscayne and associated wagons and SS models) that had A/C or a big block came with clutched fans and fan shrouds from the factory (6s and low power small block v8 without AC usually did not). A fairly simple test and adjustment of the fan clutch was printed in an article 1990 article in Corvette World " Cool Down by Henry Mollatch" to paraphrase Start the engine cold Run about 2 min shut off the engine from idle speed while watching the fan it should make about three revolutions after the motor stops. Then warm up to operating temp and repeat the test the fan blades should stop much faster. Note 2 that the OEM fans for pre 67s were set to about 160 deg F and the currently available stock is usually set to 180 or higher see article for adjustment procedure. My current cruiser is a Lemonwood Yellow 66 Impala SS 396 Convertible with AC.

basic tools are all that are needed its a simple job. They are disc type brakes.If you can do the front, then you can do the rear.

the door panels on every Saturn ive worked on comes apart by taking screws out and the fron of the door comes off to get to the inside of the door

If you have manual windows, you have to make, borrow, rent, or buy a tool for removing the crank c-clip. A stop at a local body shop might get you a free removal.

If you have removed the crank handle or you have power windows, do this:

1 - Remove your trim triangle. It's a black piece of plastic used to cover the bolts, which hold your mirrors on. Simply grasp the top of the triangle in tug. A spring clip holds it in place. Inside the cavity will be a piece of acoustic foam. Pull the foam out.

2 - look down in your inside door handle well. There should be a rubber insert, which covers two screws. It is glued in the center, allowing you to move each side away to expose one of the two screws. Remove these screws.

3 - Remove the screw below the speaker. The screw is located toward the front of the door. You can't miss it.

4 - Remove two plastic retainers, which will be located on the rear (latch side) of the door. These are typical GM two-stage plastic retaining pins. Use a screwdriver to pull out the top part of the pin. The bottom part of the pin will slide out easily.

5 - The door is now held by 5 nylon friction pins. Three pins run along the bottom of the door and two pins run along the front of the door. Start from the back (latch side) and gently pull the panel away from the sheet metal. Use a tool to help separate the door panel. It's smart to wear gloves as door panels have some sharp edges. Tug on each location where you feel resistance. The pins will pop out of their holes.

6 - While gently rocking the door panel, lift straight upto remove the top ridge from the window opening.

7 - Disconnect the wiring from the door panel.

Now you have access to the speaker and some of the window mechanism.

Note: If you can reroute the wiring for the power mirrors, the trim triangle is a great place to install a tweeter.

Cold Exhaust, warm up to ease removal. Hot Exhaust, cool down to touch. Disconnect O2 Sensor Plug. Soak threads with PB blaster & wait a bit for the stuff to work through. With the help of a O2 Sensor tool or a 22 mm(7/8") Crow Foot, remove Sensor. Clean threads on exhaust(wire brush, etc). Put anti-seize compound on the new Sensor's threads: Be very careful not to put any on the probe, just the threads! Install Sensor & torque to specs(?30 lb-ft?). Reconnect plug.

under the hood on the passanger side in front of radiator

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The 2001 Chevrolet Impala low side service port can be found on the top of the air conditioner compressor. The port will be labeled as the low pressure port.

you have to remove the fuse box just unbolt it and move it out of the way move the sblack brace that goes over the battery take the nuts of the post and then the battery tie down down below the battery take the one that is closer to the window of the car then have somebody hold the fuse box back and maneuver the battery out then put it all back were you got it

Also, it helps if you have handles on the old battery, if not I used a wire to strap on each side of the battery to slip it up out, worked great, my new battery had handles on, and they did not have to be removed after installation, they slid down over the new battery. took less than 30min.

There are 2 pads per wheel. There are 4 or a set per axle which means either both front or both rear. Some cars have rear drum brakes so they require an axle set of brake shoes.

Its the weather strip on top of the door you can pick them up at walmart or where ever

If you follow the upper radiator hose to the engine, you will see it is clamped on to the thermostat housing that is held on with two bolt to the intake manifold. When you take out the two bolt for the thermostat housing the thermostat sits under the housing.

You might think it should only take minutes to replace the thermostat. But due to the minimal amount of clearance between the thermostat housing and exhaust cross over pipe, it took me hours (and my wife's small fingers). Some suggest that the cross over pipe be removed first. In Hind site I believe that might be true. However, anyone who has disassembled exhaust components knows the nightmares waiting there; rusted fasteners are always difficult to remove and often break.

I settled for disconnecting the three hoses from the coolant manifold tube and removing the one nut which stabilizes it on the thermostat end of the intake manifold. The coolant manifold tube can then be moved enough to gain some room without completely removing it. Leave the other end connected. Also disconnect the sensor wires from the air cleaner boot and remove it too.

One of the two capscrews which hold the thermostat housing in place can be removed easily with the right size socket, six inch extension, and ratchet. It is the second, "demon" capscrew, which will demand hours of your life before surrender.

I purchased one of those ratchet type, boxed end wrenches with a swivel head to access the second capscrew. A word of warning; do not loosen this capscrew with the ratchet end of the wrench to the point that the wrench can not be taken off the head of the capscrew. As you back the capscrew out, you lose clearance between the head of the capscrew and cross over pipe to the point that you can't get your wrench off the capscrew. Due to the nature of the wrench and its ratchet feature, it will only turn the capscrew in one direction. You can't tighten the capscrew to get your wrench back!

Once the two capscrews are removed, a bit of twisting and turning of the thermostat housing and poking with a screw driver to separate the thermostat will allow both parts to come free. Be sure to retrieve the rubber gasket washer from the old thermostat. Inspect the thermostat housing and capscrews for damage and replace, as required. You will now notice that the housing has one hole and one slot. There is no doubt that both capscrews have to be removed completely to free the housing for this method, despite the slotted hole. For the effort so far definitely get a new thermostat before assembling even if you determine the "old" one is still good.

Position the new thermostat in the intake manifold, spring side first. Delicately place the thermostat housing over the thermostat and hopefully it will remain in place. More than likely it will be knocked loose while trying to position the thermostat housing. Use a screw driver carefully to put the thermostat back in place. I tried to start the demon capscrew first before positioning housing but it only got in the way. With that slot in the housing I thought it might be the way to go; didn't work.

Once the housing is in position, install the "easy" capscrew finger tight to keep the parts in place. I then used a magnetic wand to help position the second capscrew in its threaded hole, but it took my wife's small hand to start the capscrew. Once the second capscrew was started, the rest all seemed easy; ten minutes it was all back together. One major footnote as far as I'm concerned. We used a slightly shorter capscrew (M8 1.25 x 20) in place of the demon capscrew. It was easier to "find" the hole, hold in place, and start threading into the hole.

Check the coolant level in the radiator. Make sure after you fill the radiator with coolant, you bleed the air out of the system. On the top of the thermostat housing you will see a bleeder screw. Open it up after the car is at operating temperature and bleed of the air. Let the coolant flow out till you have a steady stream of coolant.

It is at the engine end of the top radiator hose.The housing is the thermostat housing and the thermostat is located therein.

Be careful. My sister did this and "cleaned" her dishwasher and the calcium build up went out of the washing area and clogged the tube that went over the washer. It required me to uninstall the washer and remove the tube for replacement.

Type of antelope.

I replaced mine at 100kmiles. I hear its a common problem. Think I paid about $500. I bet it goes out again.

The 2014 Chevrolet Impala has a 6-speed shiftable automatic.

I recently did an intake manifold gasket replacement. I removed the coolant tank from the fender well by removing the two screws on the top, disconnecting the hose from the radiator, and lifting the tank from the lower retaining pin. It was easier than I thought. I had oil mixed with the coolant and I cleaned the inside of the tank with a little kerosene. I then rinsed it with hot soapy water and rinsed again with clean hot water. I reinstalled the tank and filled it with new coolant.

DOT 3

yes you can. no problems just get the right offset. most companys will know the offest. i have one im bagged and laying frame on 24" before i bagged it i had a 2" drop all the way around and i had no problems. you will need to get lower controll arm extentions or ajustible ones. on line all day. 1" is all you need to center the wheel in the fender well

In the master break cylinder

On the 2000 Chevrolet Impala, the Head light sensor is on the inside dash board on the driver's side near the windshield and next to the vent. It looks like a small glass bubble.

This is normal. Only one fan is suppose to work with the A/C on. The other fan works when needed.

Every 10,000 miles

The 2012 Chevrolet Impala is 6 ft. 0.9 in. (72.9 in.)1 one-touch power windows wide.