Clutches and Flywheels

instead of using the clucth to activate the gear, the clutch is used the majority of the time to either 'coast' or alterate the speed of the car.

you can go to your local auto part store and ask about how to maintenance on you viehicle if they dont have one then try another i know they have them

you have to take off the inside panel of your door. slide new glass down making sure its in slots on both sides. there's a little white thing that when you tighten hold the window at bottom. when you turn crank the white thing brings window up and down.

It's actually alot easier than i thought it would be when i replaced mine. only took half hour to complete

200 quid from megavaux

you need a special puller $30

Yes, the clutch throwout bearing is hydraulically operated.

It probably has a hydraulic clutch so you will have to bleed the air out of it.

Ha it's your lucky day, I just redid the entire clutch system for my 86 Nissan. The clutch on the 86 uses hydraulics so you have two cylinders you'll have to deal with. There's a master cylinder underneath the hood behind the windshield wiper fluid reservoir. It has it's own reservoir so it's hard to miss. First you will need to get under the dashboard and disengage the pedal from the cylinder, you will see a bar attached to the pedal by a pin which goes through the pedal and the bar. The pin has a clevis pin in it to lock it in place, you should be able to pull the clevis pin out with a pair of pliers without trouble, then knock the other pin out. This next bit is optional, but I had to cut off the line going from the master to the slave cylinder, you might not have to, though you will need it out of the way to get the master cylinder off. You will need a socket wrench to get the cylinder off, one with an extension so you can get the socket to the bolts, they're 14mm I believe, it helps to remove the reservoir as well, though I suggest bleeding the line before you do. If you cut the line attached to the master cylinder you'll need to unscrew the other end of the line from the hub it's attached to on the right side of the car that hooks up with the line to the slave cylinder. The slave cylinder is bolted to the transmission, unbolt it and disconnect the hose attached to it. If you haven't bled the line already make sure you have a pan underneath the hose to catch the brake fluid. Buy your replacements, and install by reversing the above directions. Put in new break fluid and bleed the line. You might need to fiddle with the slave cylinder and the transmission once you've got everything installed so the slave cylinder's arm can pop into place properly.

It is located near on the transmission, I believe it'snear the motor mount. You will have to get under the car to find it.

you need to bleed the clutch it is under the truck on the passeger side and there is a bleeder value on the side of slave cylinder and pump the clutch with hand just like you do your brakes you need help so you can losein the value and make sure the resvor is full of fluid repeat and it should get the way you want it

You also need to make sure that the rod that pushes on the clutch mater cylinder is adjusted properly. If not, it will not push fluid out.

Don think so, but check to see if any adjusting points on likage- Try pulling up on clutch pedal sometimes that is the adjustment I believe it is self adjusting with the hydraulic system. Check the fluid level in the resevior on driver side under hood next to fuse box.

Not sure what your question is. But a typical problem with these switches is that the bracket get bent. If you look under the hood behind the engine on the left side as you are sitting on the mower you will see the bracket and the switch. Make sure the bracket is straight up and down. If it is sitting at an angle it will probably not make contact correctly. You can use a prybar or something else to put some pressure on the barcket and get it back to the straight position.

if it is hard to shift, when you shift your hear grinding, if you need to push really hard to get the clutch down, or if your in nutraul and your car dies when your foot is off the clutch

yes you can turn the flywheel w/o it. Just before you put the distibutor in you need to make sure that you number one piston is at top dead center. you need to make sure your roter button is turned right, and your vacume should be pointed between the number 6 and number 8 spark plug

a grade label, identifies the quality of the product by a letter, such as "grade A," or with a word, such as "prime." The second type, an informative label, uses phrases such as "Keep refrigerated after opening"

4 gears over 4 gears with a switch to switch between low and high 1234 then 5678

You're going to have to get a Haynes or Chiltons manual for this one. Your question is impossible to answer as is. A quick trip to AAMCO could get you on the road pretty quick if it's just a minor adjustment. They generally give you an estimate for free.

remove reservoir cap and pump pedal until air bubbles rise. Liquid is heavier than air. AIR WILL RISE. there's got to be a bleeder valve somewhere, look to see if maybe the head of the bleeder got broken off (it happens, it sucks), otherwise it isn't a perfect bleed but disconnect the line, fill the cylinder with clean fluid and wait for fluid to start coming out of the hose, then quickly reattach the hose

Source http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdclutch.htm Q: What causes my clutch to stick or drag?
A: There is no single cause of a sticking clutch. Some more common reasons for a sticking clutch are:
- Clutch controls are improperly adjusted. Clutch cable is collapsing.
- Clutch spring tension is to tight, spring binding.
- Too heavy an oil has been used in the clutch. A thick viscosity oil can cause the plates to stick, especially when cold.
- Clutch oil is 'worn out' or burnt. The oil has been in the clutch to long, clutch plate wear is excessive causing slippage, or a driving style that slips the clutch. Changing the oil in a clutch often improves the situation.
- Clutch plates are warped. Friction plates or metal plates may be warped.
- Improper adjustment on primary drive chain/belt.

Hope This Helps.

Remove the inspection plate/dust cover from the bell housing. Disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate. Remove the drive shaft from the transmission. Separate the engine and transmission and support the transmission while you remove the flex plate. Replace the flex plate and put it all back together.

You need a clutch job. The flywheel needs resurfacing as it is causing clutch chatter. Dan the tranny man

Before you get into the clucth, check out the cluthc slave and master cylinder's as well as the clutch lines. there is also a box on the frame rail that the lines go throught after leaving the master cylinder but before the slave, that might be clogged or just simply not letting the fluid through if all those are fine, well time to rip apart the transmission and replace that clutch

couple of different reasons for this. most likely, there is no fluid presure in the line to the slave cylinder due to a leak in the line or slave cylinder itself. second, less likely but i have seen it happen; the throw out bearing disintegrated leaving nothing between the fork and the presure plate so when the slave cylinder push rod extends, there is nothing to push it back. problem one would need a new line or slave cylider and your rolling. problem two means the transmission is coming out and you may as well do the clutch while your in there. hope that helps.

if you look like jade

To remove the clutch fan on these Fords you will need to get a specialized tool from your local auto parts store. This tool allows to hold the water pump retaining bolts, then use a 1 7/8 wrench on the clutch fan. Check your belt routing label. This will tell you if your fan clutch is left hand thread.