Clutches and Flywheels

Remove retaining nut

You will have to remove the transmission. That is not a job for a novice. You need to take it to a repair shop and let them diagnosis and repair it.

A suicide clutch is a clutch on some old school choppers and motorcycles, where to disengage the clutch instead of using a hand control on the handle bars, you would pull a handle on the side of the motor to engage and disengage the clutch. So at any real good speed if you weren't paying attention you could commit suicide changing gears ( loose your balance and fall off, ouch owee "road rash")

My guess would be air in the system. Many clutch master cylinders must be bench bled correctly before installing.

Directly behind the clutch pedal lever in the passanger compartment on the drivers side. Just like the brake light switch which is behind the brake pedal lever.

Save yourself some time and money, buy a new belt and degrease your pulleys. Buying belt dressing will cost almost as much as a new belt.

Just unscrew the cap and pour it in, it is on the drivers side engine compartment, high up on the firewall.

Do you mean the clutch master cylinder or transmission fluid? They both will be under the hood, the clutch master cylinder will more than likely be on the drivers side near the dash and will say what type of fluid to put in (dot 3) and will say clutch master cylinder. Just open the plastic cap when the fluid is cool and fill to the fill line. I believe as long as the brake fluid says dot 3 or whatever type you need it's okay to use. As for transmission fluid, do NOT use brake fluid for that, buy regular transmission fluid

You will see a white plastic retaining ring where the line connects to the transmission. Do not remove this, but instead push this in evenly toward the transmission while pulling the hydraulic line away from the transmission. One of Ford's "better ideas".

Should be right beside the brake master cylindar.

Looking in the direction of your windshield, at the fusebox of course, it should the the first one on the bottom left. It's white, and about 1 inch square.

The part number is 90987-02022

or 90987- 02028

How do you get into the cluch to replace it, the serial no. on our 4020 is R128822R

You should try to bleed the system first. If that does not fix completely it is possible that you may need to adjust the slave throw.

If the clutch won't engage, the clutch disc or pressure plate has probably broke apart. If the clutch won't disengage, the clutch hydraulic fluid reservoir is empty because of a leak in the system.

Hydraulic brakes can not be adjusted,check your clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder for leaks,the slave cylinder is bolted onto transmission,has arubber cover toward the end,if these are not leaking,then you may need a new clutch kit.

Coefficent of thermal expansion (alpha) for steel is approximately 11.5 X E-06 /degree C.

New size after heating = Diameter * (1 + alpha*delta-t).

A change of 256 degrees C is required to be exact. If you heat it to about 300 degree C it should fit over nicely - don't want it too tight when hot, just drop it over quickly and let it cool slowly. Best to heat in an oven or on a hot plate. A lot of mechanics use blow torches but you run the risk of softening the teeth if you overheat a particular spot too much.

nope, if you shift at a certain rpm than you dont have to hit the clutch. but its different with every truck and if you miss too often you will screw it up pretty nicely :P

Your truck has a hydraulic clutch which may need bleeding (try pumping it a couple times to see if it helps), or your clutch and pressure plate may be getting to worn. Also, it's recommended that you wait about 2 seconds after pressing in the clutch to engage a gear.

It is the pan on the bottom of the trans and should have a tube going down to it from the engine compartment on the rear of the engine. The transmission dipstick has a bright yellow handle on it. Find it on the drivers side of the car near the back of the engine compartment. You can add transmission fluid down the tube. Only use ATF +3 automatic transmission fluid. Never Mercon, Dexron or "Universal Fluids". Or else!

Big job. You can either remove the transmission and engine, or just the transmission. If one or the other, you must remove the brakes, punch out the axles, and remove, and then start to unbolt the trans. Make sure to take off the fly wheel and have it turned, and put in a new bearing with the new clutch and pressure plate. Yes it is a big job, that's why the garage can charge up to $ 1000.

Ingnition switch, relays/fuses, wires. Depending on year ecm(engine control module) 1-12 coil packs, or distributor and spark plug wires and spark plugs. Can have knock sensors, which adjust timing to compensate of fuel/atmospheric conditions.

It has a cable operated clutch , it's not hydraulic

if you look at the bell housing you should be able to see the bleeder valve sticking out. take a socket and losen it is a 12 or 13 mm if i am not mistaken have some one else inside the car to pump the brakes watch fluid coming out when it stop sputtering and starts to flow smoothly tighten the bleed er valve back down. be sure to top off you fluid before you start

A manual tranny ( T-5 ) takes 2.2 qrts.

Your releasing to fast/not giving enough gas upon release of clutch