Clutches and Flywheels

Get clear hose and put on slave cylinder bleeder screw and put other end in glass container,have someone push clutch pedal to floor and hold,then open bleeder screw and watch for air to come out,do this until no more air is seen coming out,make sure the clutch master cylinder has plenty of fluid at all times.Also dont reuse fluid.

Flywheel is used to store Rotational Energy.

Generally when you purchase a starter - depending on the application- it will come with a small thin metal rod that is used to "guage" the proper distance between the bendix and the flywheel. More often than not the starters purchased these days are not necessary to shim or even worry about clearance issues. If the vehicle starts and the starter does not stay engaged too long or does not make a lound whining sound then there is no clearance problems.

None i have found on line. Get a manual on your car. Not an easy job or one for a backyard mechanic.

if u need to find it well then go to google and write the name and u will find what ever u want k

I drive a 99 wrangler and am having similar problems. The other day leaving school I could hear a loud ticking noise sounding like it was coming from the engine. Took of the valve covers and checked the valve springs, rocker arms, and push rods, couldn't find the problem. Then I borrowed a tool called an ear and found out that it was coming from my transmission. You most likely have the AX15 transmission same as me. I suggest lifting it, and verifying that the sound is coming through the transmission then take of your starter and inspection plate

This is a pain in the butt to do the space is soooo tight , just replaced cable and clutch bracket in a 2003, spend the $$ get someone to do it for you!

I have a 95 Honda Civic with that exact problem. In fact the clutch was just replaced with all new parts about two months ago. Is it unsafe to drive? Everything else seems to work just fine. Except there is absolutely no resistance from the pedal until you get down to about 3/4 of the way down you usually would.

It is located on the side of the transmission that is toward the rear of the car. You can follow the brake fluid line that leaves from the lower part of the master cylinder and it will lead directly to the slave cylinder.

Follow the clutch cable to the transmission where there is like a not to turn up or down depending on how you need to adjust the clutch. Just can not remember which way to turn for what maybe someone else will add that part

I think I know what you are talking about, when you let out your clutch the car shudders as it engages.

This isn't normal, and is probably due to glazing of the clutch disk, this will form a varnish on the disk and when you engage the clutch it will grab and release the flywheel quickly before it engages completely giving you that shudder.

The reason it doesn't do it all the time when starting from a stop is because your engine rpm is a bit higher than usual and it has a smoother transition, the quicker engine rpm prevents the grab and release, it should almost never happen when you are moving because when the rpm of the engine and transmission are closely matched the catch will be instant, no need to let the clutch out slowly when you are already moving.

You can sometimes remove the varnish causing you trouble by bringing your rpm's up a little higher than usual and letting the clutch out very slowly, this can burn the varnish off and leave a fresh surface, it doesn't always work, but I have had good luck with it.

The clutch is not adjustable, it's hydraulic and as such adjusts itself.

The problem you are describing is the result of a failed clutch system, typically a leaky hydraulic component.

1. Clutch fluid is brake fluid.

2. The fluid used for your clutch master/slave cylinders is pulled from your brake fluid reservoir.

It sounds like there is air in the clutch line somewhere. Bleed the clutch (if possible, some clutches are "self-bleeding" and need to be replaced entirely).

5th gear synro is inside the trans... the clutch has nothing to do with it.

You can contact David Rainville at Florida Detroit Diesel Allison Tampa 813-621-5651

It is hydraulic. There is no adjustment, it self adjusts.

It is by all means better, and easier to change the clutch & pressure plate by pulling the transmission. Just remember to "block up your engine" before pulling the transmission.

The oxygen sensor is usually located on the exhaust system. You should find it just after the exhaust manifold and just ahead of the ctalytic converter...Don the Juan.

It would hurt it. Changing the spring will make the pedal harder to push down. The spring pulls the pedal up.

No fluid in the master cylinder

on the clutch pedal lever

First of all you got three different points that you have to bleed your clutch anyway I Nissan truck 720 I have one and it's kind of kind of complicated compare just with a compared to just one thing I don't like a slave cylinder you first of all you got a reservoir for the brakes same brake fluid and then you have a reservoir for the clutch was kind of crazy and it goes from the driver side it's just like a little cup and it goes the line all the way to the other side of the firewall and down to a thing called a dampener which is something that kind of anti when you scared in them or whatever the young kids do they slide in that what it kind of makes the clutch kind of not grab but it makes it kind of black so it doesn't really scared that long or whatever it's supposed to be a thing like that and then you have the slave cylinder so everything you got to get the air out of the system first of all it's pretty tough and I finally graduated to a a big syringe with the clear pipe well not a pipe but Ally in a like a nasal cannula if you're trying to get some first aid oxygen and they cap it down in it call the air bubbles out with the negative vacuum like that and then you're working way down then go to the dampener then go to the gym but make sure the first of all you have your Heist on and underneath the dash there's there's an adjustment there and you have to go by the the height of the day and the dishes like 7in from the firewall when you push down and then release it in that and then you can pump it whatever but I found the best thing but doing it by myself and doing it the way I described doing it but read the book read articles online and stuff if there's a lot of good ways of doing it but you got to get the bubbles out there and got to keep a check on that thing probably every other month you should check it out and make sure the heights right in that in the adjuster if you need to go further down there's a nut and then underneath the gas that's the hard part with the pedal and act but make sure you get that down don't get frustrated just take your time and make sure you don't do it in the Sun get some shade and you're going to be underneath that dashing you going to have to study it for a while and he's going to get pretty cut up with the brackets and stuff like that so where's some good luck

What is an automatic transmission? What does it do, and why do we need it? First, a little history. The earliest automobiles offered only manual transmissions. Similar in principle to today's stick-shift vehicles, these cars, such as the Ford Model T, sported two forward gears and one reverse, coupled to the engine via a series of pedals. But as cars grew larger and traffic got worse, engineers began searching for a way to have the car "automatically" shift from one gear to another. Designers spent decades perfecting the modern automatic transmission. Although groundwork had been laid in the early 1900s by German manufacturers of marine engines, the first appearance of an automatic transmission in a car did not occur until 1938, when GM invented "Hydra-matic Drive." The first production automobile to offer this transmission was an Oldsmobile, which rolled off the line in 1940. This was followed in close succession by Chrysler (their spies must have been working overtime), which in 1941 introduced three separate models with "Vacamatic" (they changed the name to "Fluid Drive" in 1942). By 1948, most major American automakers offered passenger cars with optional fully automatic transmissions as an option. The technology came along at a propitious time in American history. The United States, rife with victory from World War II and building up steam for the post-war boom, produced scads of babies and cars (not necessarily in that order). Into those cars they dropped thousands of automatic transmissions. It could be fairly argued that the automatic transmission, with its simplicity and ease of use, offered up the automobile to the masses, fulfilling the promise of President Herbert Hoover, whom a generation earlier had promised "a car in every garage and a chicken in every pot." At the very least it widened the vistas of an increasingly mobile workforce, fed the flow of migration to the suburbs, and welcomed women back into the economy following the war effort. The automatic transmission did this by offering a "no-muss, no-fuss" form of shifting. No more missed shift gates. No engine lugging or racing. No torn-stocking, high-heel clutch-pedaling dramas. None of that. Just press the gas and go. Okay, enough with history. Let's take a look inside an automatic transmission. The Torque Converter The key to the modern automatic transmission is the torque converter. It takes the place of a clutch in a manual transmission. A direct descendant of an earlier component called a fluid coupling, the torque converter offers the advantage of multiplying the turning power provided by the engine. It is connected to the motor by means of a metal rod known as the transmission shaft (sometimes called the input shaft), which fits next to but does not touch the engine crankshaft. Repeat: there is no direct connection between the engine and the transmission. Instead, the engine turns the transmission by means of a process called hydraulic coupling. Think of two electric fans in a room. Line them up a few feet apart, one in front of the other, both facing the same direction. Now turn on the rear fan. What happens? If you've turned the fan up high enough, and if the fans are close enough together, the front fan will begin to turn as well. In this same manner does the engine crankshaft influence the transmission shaft, causing it to rotate. The identical process occurs in a torque converter, except that transmission fluid takes the place of air. But there's more. Inside the torque converter are several components that help multiply the power. These are the impeller (or pump), the turbine, and the stator (or guide wheel). A torque converter is like a giant doughnut. The impeller and the turbine (the two fans in the analogy above) face one another inside the round metal casing. The impeller is on the engine side, the turbine on the tranny side. Both of these components have blades that catch the transmission fluid and cause them to spin. Picture two halves of a chambered nautilus, and this will perhaps give you a better image. As one fan begins to spin, the other will spin as well. Through centrifugal force, the fluid moves to the outside of the blades, where it is redirected by a third fan, called a stator, back to the turbine side. This continual flow of fluid is what causes the power to be multiplied. The Lockup Torque Converter Because the only connection between two sides of a torque converter is a fluid connection, there is always a little slippage, running from about 2-8%. To increase efficiency and gas mileage, most modern automatic transmissions also have something called a lockup clutch (aka, torque converter clutch). It works like this. As the speed of the car nears 40 miles per hour, the highly pressurized transmission fluid is channeled through the transmission shaft and activates a clutch piston. This metal pin locks the turbine to the impeller, in effect bypassing the torque converter. It remains this way until the vehicle slows below 40 mph, at which point the clutch piston disengages and the torque converter kicks in again. Simple, right? Planetary Gearsets No, we're not talking Mars and Venus here. These are different-sized gears, just like the ones on the back of your mountain bike. They're called planetary because they're circular and revolve around a central gear known as a sun gear. If it sounds like our solar system, you're right -- it's designed on the same model. A planetary gearset system has three major elements: