Clutches and Flywheels

The piston has slipped off the fork or the fork is broken.

with the increase in the number of cylinder number of piston also increases due to which power supply becomes smooth ..let me xplain when no of cylinders are 4 each cylinder has power stroke every 720 degree of the cran shaft..so in this procedure there comes a point where no power is being supplied..so we need a big fly wheel to reduce torque fluctuation. when no of cylinders increases power becomes smooth and torque fluctuation is reduced due to which we need aa small flywheel.

your slave cylinder is bad or empty,so the clutch isn't disengaging.replace it,fill it with brake fluid,bleed the line,and it should work fine

It's the way it's set up. It can be loosened or tightened. Can also be adjusted to be higher or lower.

The clutch is a series of plates held together by pressure to transmit power from the engine to the rest of the transmission components. It provides a temporary disconnection between the engine and gearbox to allow gear selection and smooth take-up of power.

I can not see any way to adjust a Maverick(terrano)2.4 petrol clutch,hope this helps

This is a manual transmission car, I presume. If it's an auto, you have a big problem!

Grinding could mean that something inside the transmission is failing. Or it could mean

that your transmission fluid is low. OR, it could mean that your clutch is worn or is out of adjustment. Grinding usually means that the clutch is not disengaging properly when you push the clutch pedal, or perhaps, a synchronizer has failed.

Whatever the case, If I were you, I'd get the car to my mechanic and have her looked at.

There is no adjusting these clutches. It uses a hydraulic system to push on the clutch. If you are having problems either there is a problem with the clutch assembly. Its worn out and slipping. Or the clutch slave or master cylinder is leaking, either internally or externally and its not pushing the clutch. If somthing is wrong with the clutch then you might as well buy a kit and replace everything as long as you are going to have the transmission out.
The slave and master cylinders should also be replaced with a complete kit. It also saves on not having to bleed the system since the kit is fully assembled and has fluid in it already.

the clutch fan is easy to remove and replace. you will see it on the upper most pully(water pump). just four 10mm nuts to take off. however the pully likes to spin so i use a screwdriver to hold it still or you could tighten the belt so it wont spin, just remember to loosen the belt back to where it is supposed to be once you are done.

You will have to remove the transmission since the slave cylinder on the 91 yj is inside the bellhousing.

they have a cable clutch, so you will have to find where the cable connects to the motor and transmission and there will be a nut on the end of the clutch cable.....tighten the nut ...but not too much you will have to tighten a little and see if that's enough however normally it is the begining of the end when you have to do that.

There is a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder of a 1999 1500 pick up. Have a helper press the clutch down slowly while you open the bleeder valve. let the air escape, then close the valve. Have the helper pump the pedal again and repeat until all of the air is gone.

My guess would be that the system has air in it. If you didn't bench bleed the master before you installed it, take it back off and bench bleed it with the master held in a perfect horizontal position. Reinstall it and bleed the system as usual at the slave.

If your car runs fine cruising, then coming to a stop (perhaps at an off-ramp) you press the clutch, let off the gas, and the car stalls, then most likely, you have a vacuum leak from your intake manifold or low fuel pressure. This is dependent on the vehicle, of course. More information would have been more helpful in answering the question.

This depends on which model it is and whether it is viscofan or magnet coupling. In all cases, this is the first steps: - Loosen the adjustment for the fan belt and remove it - Locate the bolt located on the fan pulley - Grip the pulley with a belt or something so that it does not rotate freely. Unscrew the bolt. - Drag the pulley out evenly Depending on what kind of E230 this is, additional steps may be necessary.

That seems suspiciously as though the clutch is not disengaging. Perhaps a problem with the hydraulic clutch or possibly a damaged clutch plate that is causing the pressure plate to turn even when the clutch is supposedly disengaged. It is also possible that the pilot bearing has siezed.

It's possible that the thread has gotten caught up in the bobbin for some reason - usually because there is a problem with the tension of the presser foot.

Teeth will be missing or other visual problem like missing weights, out of round, etc.

Below the brake master cylinder and to the left (drivers side) of the vehicle.

If a 1989 Nissan Sentra clutch pedal quit working and the car is now stuck in reverse, it will need to be towed to a repair shop to fix the clutch. The transmission may also be damaged due to it being stuck in reverse.

the fan has left hand tread.try turn it in a clockwise direction to remove it

The clutch encompasses the drum, the hub, the bearings, the spring(s), the pressure plate, the friction plates and the steel plates. There is rarely any need to replace more than one of these items (or sets of items, such as plates).

If the drum, hub or pressure plate show excessive wear or physical damage, it should be replaced. If the friction plates are worn beyond service limits, they should be replaced. If the steel plates are warped from excessive slippage, they should be replaced. If either bearing turns roughly it should be replaced.

1/2 inch, with 1-1/2 inches of free play in the clutch.

All you have to do is let it gravity bleed.

Just open the bleeder valve on the transmission and have someone watch the fluid level in the resavore.

It might take a few minutes but that's the easiest way that I have found.