Clutches and Flywheels

you will have to remove the clutch housing on the right hand side of the engine you will see two clutches the left one is a friction and the one in front is a centrifugal this one has springs to hold in the cam arms the springs might be weak or the cam arms are sticking out at an idle seizing good luck dude

rapid release of the cluth pedal. When stationary can cause a car to stall. When on the move can restart an engine, as in bump starting.

Depends on hourly rate at dealership or back street garage! 3 to 4 hours labour plus cost of clutch and or clutch kit.

about 2302 ft/lbs

to remove a clutch fan on a ford, you need special tools . also fan thread is left hand thread ,so you unscrew it clockwise

Happened to mine if your brake light flashed before like flickering it might be your brake fluids low add some then move your clutch petal half pumpls get the air out. Its a hydrolic so it should pop back up by itself one the air is out and the fluids replenished. Hope this helps

It could be. The manufacturer decides what is part of there "powertrain warranty".

First you've got to pull the transmission. After that you've got to take the plate with tines on it off and take the clutch off and take the flexplate or the flywheel off. You have to use a rod to place in the Flywheel to center the new clutch. Also, at this time you should replace the bushing in the flywheel.

you must remove the transmission, two bolts hold the slave on the front of the trans, and be sure to disconnect the hydrolic line ( no easy task)

The line is removed by pushing out the little pin near the end of the slave using a punch(hard part described above) once the pin is removed the line will slide off the slave.

**watch for an oring it will fall out and you will lose it .. DONT u need it. the install is the reverse acccpt your need to bleed the slave the same way you do brakes.

This is not correct. You do not have to remove the tranny on 94 and 95 models. You only have to remove the brace from engine to transmission. Then after that, everything else is the same.

slave cylander for what?

slave cylander for what?

If you get the P0740 code it means there is a problem with either the torque converter or the control system for the torque converter in your car. It might be such a slight problem that you dont notice anything, or it may be totally undriveable. It depends on what part of the system failed and how badly it failed. To fix it, it can be anything from a simple fluid and filter change (to get debris out of the fluid that might be clogging the solenoid up), or it could be an electrical problem (such as the solenoid, or wiring) or it could be the torque converter itself has failed (which would mean the entire transmission is likely ruined from the debris). It IS definetly a difficult problem to diagnose, and impossible to diagnose without taking anything apart (or at least test driving it with some diagnostic equipment). Starting with the basic (inexpensive) stuff like a fluid flush and filter change and working your way up from there is usually the best way to go, as long as the car is still driveable. Hope that helps!

It is a hydraulic operated clutch.

Jack up vehicle and place 4 stands front and back so you can easily roll in and out of under the car. Disconnect battery.

1. Remove tailshaft (4 bolts) at the rear uni joint.

2.Remove speedo cable and disconnect reverse light wires and earth straps attached to gearbox. Disconnect clutch cable and gear selectors,

3.remove bolts that hold the starter motor and push starter motor back

4. Remove remaining bolts around the bell housing

5. Place jack on wheels under the gearbox pan and jack up (At this point you may want to drain the gearbox oil prior to using the jack to make the gearbox lighter)

6 remove gearbox rear mount bolt and nut

7.Gently pull the jack backwards and remove the gearbox and bell housing

8. Remove clutch assembly from flywheel by unbolting the securing screws.

9.remove flywheel and get it machined. Replace the spigot bearing.(6002V bearing).

10. refit flywheel with a bit of loctite 243 on the nuts and tighten to approx 65ft/lb.

11. Fit new clutch plate and flywheel and use a clutch aligning tool while doing this. It is so the shaft lines up with the cluth plate.

12. Remove old clutch thrust bearing and clips from bell housing and clean up the shaft and bell housing. Fit new thrust bearing with a light smear of grease on the shaft where the bearing slides and grease the shaft spline lightly. Carefully put the clips in either side of the thrust bearing and attach to the pivot. Check the bearing pivots smoothly by moving the clutch lever back and forth.

13. Align gearbox on the jack and insert into the clutch assy.

14. if gearbox is not going in far enough for bolting up, have someone put a wrench on the engine bottom pulley(harmonic balancer) and gently rock back and forth while you manouver the gearbox shaft in.

15. When shaft and gearbox has gone in as far as possible start bolting up and this will pull the gearbox in the remaining 5-10mm. Bolt up slowly and sequentially so the gearbox is being pulled in evenly.

16. Refit starter motor and tailshaft. Check everything is reconnected and bolted up. Gearbox oil top up.

17 adjust clutch cable if needed.

As far as clutches go this is a straightforward job that needs approx 4hrs to reassemble once you have all the parts and flywheel machined. You only need basic tools 13mm ,14mm, 17mm, 12mm sockets and socket extensions , 15/16" socket for gearbox pan. Ring spanners for tailshaft, Pliers.

VERY CAREFULLY.

You should be able to find a shop manual at your local library with diagnostics and specs -- make copies of the right sections as they are usually only available in the REFERENCE section...good luck :) I guess I will answer my own question... (service manual was "in the mail" when I had asked it). There is not a relay for the clutch, it's wired directly from the pressure switches.

If the clutch is not completely disengaging you could have problems shifting into gear. The clutch SHOULD disconnect the engine from the transmission, meaning that when the pressure plate backs off the clutch disk the clutch disk should turn freely. A couple potential problems could prevent the clutch disk from completely disengaging or at least turning freely: First possibility, If you didn't adequately clean and re-lube the pilot bushing or glan nut (depending on which you have) the pilot shaft will "drag" a little, causing the shaft to turn. If the shaft receives even a little torque from the engine, you will have trouble shifting. Second possibility, the clutch disk is slightly warped, making it rub against the flywheel or pressure plate. If it's much pressure at all the clutch disk will want to turn resulting in the same problem described above. Third possibility, the hydraulic clutch is in need of a little attention and isn't fully depressing the throwout bearing. Good luck.

Start by chocking the wheels, and removing the neg. battery cable. Raise the truck enough to clear the transmission bell housing and put on jack stands.

Remove the cover in the cab for the stick shift. one bolt is under the cup holder another is under the gadget holder where the 4wheel drive stick would be. Remove the stick shift with cover closest to the transmission no need to remove the torx bolts for the top section. get under the truck. remove the universal joint from the end of the drive shaft leaving the yoke in the transmission. remove the starter remove the bolts from the exhaust to the headers. remove all bell housing bolts remove the hydraulic line for the slave cylinder by pushing in the plastic sleeve. Remove the neutral light switch. Put jack under transmission, remove the strut that runs across the frame and pull transmission backwards. Remove pressure plate and measure the clutch plate the 02 uses an 11" or 12"

1) Buy Haynes workshop manual for astra mk3 and the diesel engine.

2) Jack front up and put on blocks.

3) Drop sub-frame.

4) Undo gearbox bolts and make a gap between engine block and gear box.

5) Change clutch and re-assemble.

In some Nissan Pickups of that year, the fan clutch is actually integrated with the water pump as an assembly. Therefore, the fan clutch cannot be separated from the water pump. There are six bolts holding the water pump to the engine block; remove those bolts and the water pump/fan clutch assembly should come out as a unit.

you have a few opptions first thing did you add or remove any tranny fluid? i have a 2001 Pontiac grand am 6 cyl. 3.4 engine. it has no dip stick to check fluid the theory you shouldn't have add unless there is a leak.but in my case my whole tranny pan was empty no spills no indacation of a leak.except that when in 3rd and pressing the gas it didnt seem to want to go anywhere or the rpms would reach around 3000 but once i reached 4th it would drop down to 1500 and rides smooth. heres some things you could do if you don't have a dip stick to check tran fluid then just unscrew a corner of the tran pan and see if you do in fact have fluid even if you do i would just empty the whole thing clean off the magnet on the inside of tran cover change tranny filter.they say add 9 to 10 us quarts that's way wrong its 7 us qrts trust me i listen and addsd 9 1/2 and my car ran worst so i had to redo everything and i added 7 us quarts and my car is driving pretty good even though i ran the car with no tran fluid for almost a month.it stills runs a little funny when i first start it up in the morning.if that doesnt work for you then your vacum seal may be blowen and it is not getting enough pressure that could be why your rpms are going so high and taking a bit longer to change gears.but make sure you have enough fluid DO NOT OVER FILL LIKE I DID but if you add the right amount you will see the difference i did. iam not a macanic or English teacher iam just a person trying to save a buck. i learned threw trail and error but i got my car running and running good so i hope i can also save you a buck to

Let's agree on terms. Clutch is still not fully engaging? To me this means that when it's in gear the clutch slips. Looking at it another way I wonder if you mean when you step on the clutch it doesn't disengage. That it is hard to shift gears. Makes a difference. If the clutch is not gripping that is not going to have anything to do with the slave cylinder or bleeding it.

If it is that the clutch is not disengaging so that you can shift you are sure about your bleeding technique, changed the slave, the only things left are the master cylinder and the lines.

There are two types of clutches: the frictional and the positive clutches. A clutch is basically a mechanical device that is used to disconnect or connect the source of power from the remaining parts.

to set up the correct free movement when replacing any of the clutch components

Depends on what vehicle you are working on. Rule of thumb is 1" free play, but it may be different on your vehicle. Normally the clutch master cylinder has an actuator rod that connects to the clutch pedal. This rod has a lock nut on it. Loosen this nut and turn the rod to lengthen or shorten the pedal free play. Some clutches are self adjusting. The free play must be adjusted so the clutch will fully release but not so much as to cause it to slip.

The first step is to remove the transmission you can pull it all te way out or just slide it back about 2 feet to do this you will need to remove the shifter from the trans. next remove the bolts that hold the preasure plate to the flywheel the clutch disk is between these 2 items. after removing it sand the flywheel slightly then reinstall the new clutch preasure plate and always replace the throw out bearing which is located in the clutch fork . you will need to align the clutach before trying to stab the transmission back to the motor most clutch kits come with a tool to do this .