Clutches and Flywheels

Turn the large nut loose (1 7/16") by turning it counterclockwise then spin the fan and fan clutch off as an assembly. Separate the fan from the clutch on the bench.

It's right underneath your clutch pedal. If you take a flashlight and look at where your acceleration, brake, and clutch are, you'll find that each of these has a fuse. The clutch fuse has a little rod that gets pushed in against a spring, and the fuse should have two wires, one black one red, running from it up into your car.

Pressure Plate = 25 n.m. (18 ft lbs)
Flywheel = 80 n.m. (59 ft. Lbs)








~MFG Racing

Buy a 3"long 3/4"x16 bolt and a 4"long 7/16"x20 socket head bolt at your local hardware store. Thread the 7/16"x20 socket head bolt into the crank until it stops with a 3/8" Allen key wrench. Now thread the 3/4x16 bolt into the clutch. Once it comes in contact with the socket head bolt you will have to hold the clutch from turning. Keep screwing the 3/4" until the clutch comes off the tapered press fit on the crank.

Could not be simpler or cheaper.

I know its not a flywheel but I just replaced the rear main seal on my automatic 1990 240 DL and I did not index the flexplate, everything runs just fine after the work was done.

Hope it helps.

Either buy a reset switch from a motor factor or get your local dealership to clear it.

pump the clutch pedal 10 times to the floor slowly and then hold it to the floor. while its to the floor have somebody open the bleed screw which should be on the slave cylinder if external or on the side of the trans if internal and keep repeating until all of the air is out. keep an eye on the master cylinder to make sure theres enough fluid in it at all times.

Each time you remove the ATF plug, the 1999 and 2000 AWD CRVs drain 4 liters of ATF fluid before the dripping stops. I use a jug with milliliter/ quart markings on the side to measure the ATF coming out. The remaining ATF stays in the engine. Total capacity is 6.8 liters or 7.2 quarts. Honda recommends repeating this process 3 times to clean the engine. So buy 3 jugs.

ATF has good flushing qualities, so best to wait a couple of weeks between each of the fluid changes.

The plug is just behind the passenger side bumper and is the plug that takes the square end of a 3/8 inch wrench. Buy new crush washers, for proper seal. Torque to 36 ft lbs.

So many answers to such a vague question. Clutch is worn out, clutch cylinder not working, release bearing seized, out of adjustment.

How about some details?

This works for any hydraulic system, clutch or brakes. On the slave cylinder is the bleeder screw. Use a piece of tubing that just fits over the screw and put the other end in a container with about an inch of brake fluid in it. With the screw loosened and the clutch master cylinder full slowly pump the brake. One or two complete fillings of the master cylinder should be enough to bleed the system. Make sure the master doesn't run out of fluid in the process. Tighten the bleeder screw and you should be done.

=i dno lol=

the clutch engages a compressor that goes on and off to keep a particular setting.for example if there is not enough freon in the ac the clucth will keep running and clicking on and off

Does anyone know how to take off a radiator fan clutch from a 1998 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6

what you need to do is find the adjuster which is if you look over your battery about 12"below you will see a bar with the a long threaded bar on the side nearest to the inside of the car is a clip take this off be careful if you drop it its a pain to find on the other side you will see a block which is shaped into the metal what you need to do is withh your right hand on the back of threaded bar push forward this will move the block on the otherside and reveal some more thread what you need to do is with left hand tigten the block towards your right hand about 5-6 turns ..that done now try your clutch if it feels ok replace the clip VERY IMPORTANT if not keep turning and trying tony.t

Just find the cable on the transmission and look at it. The adjusting nut is where it connects to the tranny. You'll have to figure out which way to turn it for yourself.

After checking to be sure there are no leaks in the Clutch Hydraulic system.

Complete ALL of the following steps before test driving the car:

1) Install a helper in the drivers seat to push in and let out the clutch pedal on command.

2) Remove the cover from the Master Cylinder reservoir.

3) Top off fluid in the reservoir.

4) During the course of this procedure DO NOT allow the "helper" to "pump" the pedal. The "helper" is to depress and release the pedal on command only, DO NOT PUMP THE PEDAL. (See theory below)

5) You will be opening and closing the bleed screw on the slave cylinder as instructed below. CAUTION: During this procedure protect your eyes from squirting brake fluid.

6) (Helper) Press clutch pedal in fully and hold.

7) (You) Open the bleed screw to allow fluid to escape.

8) (You) Close bleed screw.

9) (Helper) Release pedal completely

10) (You) Top off fluid in reservoir.

11) Repeat steps #6 thru #10 no less than 5 times before going to #12 below. NO PUMPING!

12) You have now bled the Master Cylinder and the hydraulic line. YOU ARE NOT DONE YET!!!!! We must now bleed the Slave cylinder. (This is what the manual doesn't tell you)

13) With no further action to be done with the clutch pedal, you can no remove the "helper" from the drivers seat and have him (her/it) help you do the following.

14) After topping off the Master Cylinder, completely remove the bleed screw from the slave cylinder.

15) Have the "helper" stand at the ready with the bleed screw and the appropriate wrench for installing the bleed screw.

16) PROTECT YOUR EYES!

17) With the bleed screw removed. With both hands grab the push rod coming out of the slave cylinder and push it into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.

18) Your "helper" will now install and tighten the bleed screw while you hold the plunger in.

19) When bleed screw is tight release the rod and as it comes out guide it into the proper position on the clutch arm.

20) Top off the Reservoir and the job is complete.

How do you figure the starter is okay just by popping the clutch? Popping the clutch uses the driveline to turn the motor over. The starter is not involved at all.

in some cases...but automatic shifts faster than most manual drivers ;)

yes that is true but manual delivers more power due to manual transmissions using a completely mechanical connection to transfer power from the fly wheel to the tranny... if you have any questions just ask but you are rght on the first one but not talking about shifting the manual delivers more power because on an automatic power is lost going through a torque converter because of the liquid connection

If the answer refers to "it's not engaging completely to shift" it could be:

* not enough clutch fluid * slave cylinder clutch, damaged and needs bleeding/repair/replacement * master cylinder clutch, damaged and needs bleeding/repair/replacement First check for fluid, if enough, then bleed the circuit changing to new fluid. If looking at the cylinders, any of them is leaking, it needs repair, repair kits are found at NAPA (USA). it's cheaper than replacement, but if the cylinder is damaged it will leak again soon.

Some air in the circuit is enough for not letting the clutch work fully, and with the time the fluid will get water from ambient and that water will evaporate (with heat) creating air pockets.

If the answer refer to "side pedal play" you need to remove the pedal clutch assembly to replace the bushings

If you have manual transmission, most likely the clutch has to be replaced (as you said).

If you have a manual transmission then you most likely have a hydraulically operated clutch. It uses brake (hydraulic) fluid available anywhere. You will notice a clutch master cylinder on the drivers side near the firewall ; add fluid to the full mark. I hope this helps you. Mark

Gearbox oil needs changing.

with your dick