Dodge Durango

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The above is absolutely bogus, and takes you to an oriental web page.

To change out the license plate bulb on your 2000 Durango:

1. Obtain square head #10 screwdriver to unscrew screws at either end of assembly, OR get replacement #10 Phillips screws from hardware store to replace them with (and remove square heads with a Phillips).

2. Remove rear license plate.

3. Remove aforementioned screws securing light assembly to bumper. (There's an aperture at the top-back for manipulation where the wire comes thru the bumper). Use it to enable you to twist the entire assembly and bring it down through bumper so as to access the back of assembly where light cord goes in. Don't worry, there's plenty of wire to allow you to do so.

4. Twist the base of the bulb socket and then remove socket from assembly.

5. Pull bulb straight out from socket, and replace with fresh #168.

6. Place socket back into assembly and twist to secure.

7. Reposition assembly back up into bumper, and secure with screws.

8. Replace rear license plate.

It all depends on where you want to put it.

fuse relay center under the hood Everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the library should have a professional shop manual available in the reference section(make copies of the right sections) read up and fix it like a PRO! :) good luck

It doesn't have one.

The maximum tosing capacity of the 2008 Dodge Durango is 6050 lbs..

There is no definite answer to that question. Each vehicle requires a different amount of adjustment on the tie rods to have the proper toe setting. That is why an alignment shop has the large fancy alignment machine.

There is no definite answer to that question. Each vehicle requires a different amount of adjustment on the tie rods to have the proper toe setting. That is why an alignment shop has the large fancy alignment machine.

P1942 Transmission adaptation,

On a Dodge Durango the ambient temperature sensor is used by the DPLV, heated oxygen sensor circuit and a transmission fluid temperature sensor , If the ambient temperature is not rational in regards to the engine temperature sensor the transmission temperature will adapt to a substituted temperature value,

this in turn will effect the 2-3 shift points on the transmission,

It uses a MAP sensor.

It uses a MAP sensor.

Dodge does not use inertia/reset switches

Dodge does not use inertia/reset switches

A 5/16 brake wrench

The 2005 Dodge Durango has a 3.7 L base engine size.

25000 milee

I am working on my '99 Silverado now. It took me 3 hours to get the old pump off. Now I am stuck... Here is what I have done, not sure if it is correct... Step one - drain down the radiator - pull down hose sticking up on driver's side of radiator. stick it into a bucket or old milk jug, etc. Open little valve (plastic) on bottom of radiator (driver's side near start of rubber hose). Open the coolant fill cap on the white plastic coolant overflow container on the passenger side. This will allow the coolant to flow out of the radiator. Step Two - Remove fan cowl. Two bolts on radiator mounting frame and then two bolts on each side of cowl itself. Cowl will lift out in two pieces. Step Three - Remove fan if you can (this is where I got stuck - so I skipped this - read on). Step Three (again) - remove serpentine belt. With 3/8" driver - stick this into the tensioning thingy (the one below the alternator - passenger side of fan). Pull on driver and belt should become loose. Remove belt. Step Four - with a pair of channel locks grab the clamps holding the hoses in place and move them down the hose to a place that is not over the metal tube inside the hose. This will make removal of the water pump easier later. If you can loosen up the hoses now do it, otherwise this can wait until later. Step Five - (protect the gound below with a tarp or container to catch spillage) With your socket and a long extension you should be able to reach the four bolts holding the water pump on. Reaching in through the fan into where you can't see put the socket on and turn. Step Six - Pull water pump free - work the hoses off as best you can. Step Seven - don't knick your radiator Step eight - Clean all of the gasket material off the engine block with a painter's small putty knife or scrapper. Make sure you get it all - you don't want to fix a leak later do you? Step nine - NOW I am stuck - With the fan still attached to the old water pump - remove the fan and pulley assembly from the old water pump. HOW do I get this off!!! I think I know how but it doesn't seem to work the way I think it should? Step ten - reassemble with new water pump..... In my answer I meant to mentions that my '99 sivlerado is also a 4.3 V6. Ok I got the fan off. I went to a garage and the mechanic pulled out a chisel and an air line. Hooked the chisel to the air line and put the fan/waterpump assembly on the ground. He used the chisel on the nut holding the fan to the pump on the ground. The vibration and the downward force of the chisel got the nut free in about two tries. The fan assembly easily spun off the water pump. total time 2 minutes plus trip to service station. I then went home an put the new pump on and put it all back together. better than an air chisel, use a strap wrench on the pulley and a big crescent on the fan nut. the fan nut isn't that tight. When i replaced my water pump i didn't have a strap wrench. what i did was i had my buddy hold the pulley tight just with his hands while i used a large wrench on the fan nut and hit the wrench somewhat hard to get the nut loose. took about 2 seconds

The timing marks are most likely listed someplace inside the engine bay. Pop the hood and look at some of the diagrams/writing, it may be there. As for the fuel filter, there is only 1 which is located to the passenger side of the engine compartment about halfway back, it's a round cylinder shape and has 1 inlet hose and 1 outlet hose. There is also 1 fuel pump which is located in the gas tank itself. The cutoff switch for that is located in the trunk on the left side, pull back some carpeting and you'll see it, that is of course if the sticker isn't still on there telling you where it's at.

It is located on the passenger side. If you look threw the wheel well you will see it. To remove it, you will save lots of frustration by just removing the passenger side front wheel. It's so much more accessable from there.

you can go to Autozone and use the loaner tool, but you can do it the cheap way. Get some vise-grips and clamp on the wheel behind the nut, making sure to secure it in away that it does not rotate. Then get a pipewrench and secure it to the bolt. With a hammer, hit the handle of the pipewrench a few times, it will come loose. Remember, to hit it counter-clock wise, it has reverse threading.

Most likely, either the linkage to the wiper has become disconnected (or broken), or the wiper pivot is stripped out.

First check fuses, relays to wiper motor. Then check power to wiper motor. Then check linkage to wiper motor.

End of message. If that is all you got when trying to blink the codes, there are no codes.

yes the bolts are too long at first, i just finished changing mine today. my timing belt exploded on me. turns out in order to actually get the bolts clear of the block you have to take off the passenger side motor mount and loosen the others and basically push the engine down. with everything loose it'll make it, just barely, but you can already see how close it is. the way you have it now you can tell it's only a few mm to clear. try it this way, it'll work. and you'll have to take off the motor mounts anyway to hoist the engine out if that was your last resort.

Don't loosen the other motor mount!!!!!! if you loosen the passenger side mount and remove it , put a floor jack under the oil pan but be sure to use a block of wood to disperse the weight so you don't crush the oil pan. Jack your engine up about 6 inches, the motor mount and the other bolts will be easier to access and will slide past the fender wall easier. The water pump is actually attached to your timing belt so be very careful not to move the crankshaft or the camshafts when you remove the belt, this is one of the hardest engines to get back in time.

The condensor drain tube is clogged. Find the drain line and unclogg it.

You can find the flter box in front of the box that says "do not open" the top is held in place by three clips and you clip them off first, them prise the front parts slightly with a screwdeiver, undo the big jubilee clip first on the intake pipe, the filter is then accessable.

I don't have an exact time but on the 01 it takes a little while because the a/c lines and vacuum hoses are in the way. So, it can take a little while because of extra disassembling and re-assembling