Dodge Durango

If your Durango Has a 4.7 Liter I Would Look Into Either the Camshaft Sensor Or Crankshaft Sensor. There Is a Fair Amount of Losing Power and Stalling Problems With Either Sensor

It stands for leak detection pump. It is part of the evaporative emissions leak detection system. The engine computer uses the LDP pump to pressurise the fuel tank and check for vapor leaks.

You can change the tail light for a 95 to 02 by changing the trunk LID by changing the lid it allows the light to fit.

That is a cylinder number eight misfire.

Remove the 2002 Dodge Durango factory stereo decorative cover. Remove the factory stereo retaining screws. Pull the factory stereo out. Remove the wiring harness and the antenna cable from the back of the stereo.

if you recently replaced, charged, or "boosted" your battery, similiar problems like this, i have yet to find an answer on how to fix it other then takeing it to a dealer and have them restore your vehicles configuration.

Per the owners manual. "Use only a high quality Ethylene glycol based antifreeze coolant, such as Mopar P/N 4267020 or equivalent" Your best bet is to drain all the coolant both from the radiator and the engine block and then flush with water and then use all one brand of coolant, such as Prestone that is sold everywhere if your doing some major repairs like replacing hoses and what not.

You have to replace the hub assembly which is expensive. Cost me $226.00 for one for the rear. They aren't hard to change. Take the brake caliper off. Then take the 2 bolts out on the plate that holds the brake shoes. There are three bolts holding the hub assembly in. Take them out and pull the hub out. I was able to leave the parking brake in.

on the center console behind the shifter. has a little dome on it and lights up orange.

The 2002 Dodge Durango has a 4.7 L base engine size.

good place to go is the Library and copy the pages you need lots of info there.

I have an 02 Dodge Durango and the Service 4wd light came on !! but that's not all my rear wiper controls stop working and my radio controls all at the same time ??? all fuses are good The computors is not telling me whats wrong an nobody around know or can't figure nothing out.

This is the toughest water pump I've ever replaced, but it's not too bad once you have the right stuff. The key is to rent the "fan clutch removal tool" when you buy the new water pump. I got mine at Advanced Auto Parts, but Auto Zone had it as well. I know alot of mechanical people, but no one had wrenches that big just laying around. Don't forget to get permatex and antifreeze, and you might want to get a 2 1/2" and 1 1/2" hose clamp, my old ones didn't tighten up on the new pump. Look under the hood at the water pump. First, loosen but do not remove the four bolts on the water pump pulley. Now, take your 5/8 wrench and pry the tensioner (you might need a pipe or breaker bar here) to remove the belt and lay it aside. Now, you need to remove at least two of the bolts in the back of the fan blade to make room for the wrenches you rented. Put the big wrench on the bolt heads of the water pump pulley and the other wrench on the big nut behind the fan blade and loosen it. This can be on there pretty good, but it loosens to the left just like all the other bolts, just give it a little spunk. It helped me to lock the big wrench in behind the tensioner housing nut to help hold it still. Once you break it loose, the fan assembly should just spin right off the end of the water pump. Take the two bolts out of the top of the fan shroud and lift the shroud and fan out all together and set them aside. Now, you're finally down to doing a normal water pump repair. Remove the top water hose, the bottom hose, and the four bolts holding the water pump in place, and tap the pump free from the engine. Once it's loose, you need to drop the water pump down and to the left a little to get the hard top water pipe out from behind the other hoses. Clean up the water pump mounting location to remove all the old gasket, dirt and anti freeze. Do a good job on this, you don't want to have to start over because of old gasket material causing the new water pump to leak. Put a bead of permatex on the new pump and seat the new gasket in place and let it cure a bit to get good and stuck. Put another good bead of permatex on the engine, weasel the water pump back up in there where it was and bolt it back in place. Alternate tightening the bolts just like a tire to keep from putting it in a bind. Reassemble everything just like you took it out, check for leaks, return the tool for credit, and keep an eye on your radiator fluid for a few days. ! Yes I must agree with one of the "Toughest Replcacement Part!" After reading this commmentary completely, I ran into one "PROBLEM!", and this prior to starting pocedures on my 1994 F150 4x4 4.9L 300 6 cylinder truck, I called the 3 Ford Dealerships in my home area being Deil Ford, Accident, MD, Shaffer Ford Sales Oakland, MD and Scott Ford Kingwood, WV, to speak with their top Techs, Now My question was after several mechanics I personally know, said, " You better find out if the Clutch Fan Nut has reversible (left hand threads) , cause if you normally try to remove counter clock wise, you just might do damage to the Nut or what ever, when trying to break it free! The 3 Techs from Ford, said that I had to turn clockwise to remove Fan Clutch assembly cause mine was suppose to have left hand threads (reversible from normal)!!!! I did as instructed, "Big Mistake!!!!", the nut would not give!!!!! I called the main Ford Customer toll free in Detroit and Canada where truck was made. gave the Vin Number and all model description to their top techs, both of them, Quote "Our spechs say your's is left hand threaded and the manual says turn clockwise to loosen and counter clock wise to tighten!!!, BULL@#*%!!!!! I found after hours of fooling around with their needless and careless advice they were all 100% wrong!, The Nut was exactly as this person in his answer said it to be, NORMAL, loosen by turning counter clock wise!!!! Thinking about going with DODGE!!!!! LOL

just had the same prob...it is a blow resistor or fuse..took mine to the mechanic next door and he told me but i forgot...didn't cost much to replace

Right front corner of engine.(passenger side)

There is alot of useful info on this site for http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006ae36

Check the hose from the radiator on the passenger side of the engine. It is in the housing where it meets the engine. facing the engine,it is on the lower part of the block,passenger side.

You may have an ABS sensor going out at one of the wheels.

first things first check fuses. if fuses are good check check bulbs to see if they are burnt. Lastly the worst problem is the wiring. use amp meter to check wiring coming out of bulbs

Under the dash on the driver side.

4 sensors total. 2 upstream on either side of exhaust manifold, 1 left side downstream, 1 right side downstream.

2004-2009 is all same design/size. yes yo can add the third row seat. the only difference is 1 full seat or dual folding seats.

The 2000 Dodge Durango takes 20" wiper blades on both sides front and a 16" rear wiper. See sources and related links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

what size allen wrench do i need to change front brakes on a 2004 dodge grand caravan

Yes and not, well the tires 285 75 16 fit in stock durango and Dakota if you have the 2" lift... if not the tire will rubing...