Ford Escort LX

its a shift light for a manual trans. means opimum rpm for shifting to higher gear

I found the instructions in a Chiltons #26242 book on Ford Escort/Tracer. I found it easier to remove the alternator as there is a idler pulley hidden beneath it that is a real bugger to get the belt around. Once I solved this problem everything else was easy. The tension pulley that Ford installed really helped as you don't have to adjust the belt.

i think the biggest engine you could fit in a 1993 ford escort gt 1.8 is a 1998 ford escort zx2 2.0 turbo engine with intake manifold and coilovers to get hp that you can actually manage in the car. but then you would have to completely redo the wiring harness from a zx2 to a 93 escort and get the transmission from the zx2 to fit also in the 93 escort, with the right motor mounts youll be set.

Fusable link

to adjust idle on 2000 impala....Locate the accelerator cable on the throttle body.Have someone push down on the accelerator pedel while you observe the throtle body cable movements.You will notice a stop screw on the throtle body butterfly where it comes to rest against the throtle body.Turn the screw clockwise for more rpm, turn the screw counter clockwise for less rpm. I am not sure if any of the air filter componets need to be removed or not... Should't have to do this.Observe...you can do it...

could be that the door is open or one of the sensors says the door is open

When you open the hood, look in the upper right section of the engine compartment and you will see the "Main fuse box". When you locate that look about 5 inches directly above that, basically on top of the right side of the firewall near where the strut tower gets bolted too and you'll find it. I believe it's fuse 32, but not sure. They put it in with a random assortment of things, hope that helped!

coolant temperature sensor is the right of the coolant outlet line on the top of the engine when looking at while standing in front of the truck. it has a black two prong clip attached to the sensor. the oil temp switch is to the left of the coolant outlet line. it has a single black wire coming off of it.

when a vehicle is backing, they are required to use 'more care' than the person going forward...for obvious reasons....in most cases such as this, it would be considered 50/50, meaning you are both equally at fault for this loss (there are variables though, where is the damage? was one person farther into the lane, and thus having control/possession of the lane?), let's assume it is determined 50/50...now it will depend on the liablity statue of your state...MO is pure comparative...meaning each of you would owe 50% of the other's damage......some states (KS for example) if you are 50% or more at fault (in this example you would be as would the other driver) you are bared from recovery, therefore you would each not collect, if you were though (in the KS example) 49% and other driver was 51% neglient then you would recover 51% from him, and he nothing from you...clear as mud? i know it's very confusing........find our the statute of your state...of course you need to report this (promptly) to your insurer...

they are struts you must take out the old strut,take the springs out and put them in the new struts

The ECM fuse is located inside the engine of the vehicle. Engine Control Module acts as the main fuse of the vehicle.

Looking at the bottom side of the front of the engine at the crankshaft pulley, the CKP is at the 10 O'Clock position of the crankshaft pulley

I have a 99 sportage, I know an easier way, when you get the tire off, you will notice two screws in the center area of the outside of the drum, take those out, and there will be two additional holes near those, put the screws in those other holes and evenly tighten them, you will see the drum start to come off. when the screws are all the way in, then just use a hammer or flat bar to pry the drum off the rest of the way.

+ battery cable should be connected to relay

Reccomended oil is 5w-30 SM rated oil for all temperature ranges.

a cluster is the panel that tells you your speed, rpm, etc.. they usually call it your cluster panel.

it depends if your coustumizing or not but around the price range of 599.00 to 2,000.00

There is about 2.7 hours of labor at $87 an hour.

Find the big hose that runs to the top of the radiator. At the other end where it is attached to the engine is called the thermostat housing. The thermostat is inside.

The 1.9 litre four cylinder engine in a 1995 Ford Escort is a :

( Single Over Head Cam inline four cylinder engine )

Take it easy and you'll be done and going in no time:

Here are some common instructions and safety precautions regularly found in all automobile handbooks and car safety manuals. You can find these types of instructions everywhere! I bring it to you here to better aid you, the person that needs this info. Hope this helps.

1. Put the car in park on a level area, and apply the parking brake. On the road, pull off as far as you safely can to avoid traffic.

2. Turn the engine off and put on the flashers. You may want to open the hood to indicate to other drivers that you are stopped for repairs.

3. Place a wheel chock (or any large rock, log, etc.) behind or in front of the opposing wheel to prevent the car from rolling, even on a slight incline.

4. Put the car in gear and set the parking brake for a manual-transmission car.

5. Get out the spare, a tire iron (lugnut wrench) and the car jack.

6. Remove the hubcap, if necessary.

7. Loosen the lugnuts before jacking up the car: Place one end of the tire iron over a lug nut. Turn the tire iron and loosen the lug nut. Remember: lefty-loosy, righty-tighty.

8. Use your pipe for leverage (see tips below) by attaching it to the end of the lugnut wrench.

9. Untighten the lug nuts in a star pattern, loosening one a few turns, then loosening the one opposite.

10. Work across the tire until all the lug nuts are loose and unscrewed slightly.

11. Jack the car up. Check your owner's manual for the correct and safe place to put the jack.

12. Jack the car up a little higher than is necessary to remove the old tire so there is room to put the new, full tire on.

13. Remove the lug nuts all the way and set them aside -- someplace where you won't lose them or they won't roll away! The flat tire should be hanging from the threaded studs now.

14. Remove the flat tire and set it aside.

15. Replace with the new tire, lifting it onto the wheel studs. If confused about which way is the right way to put the new tire on, check for the valve where you add air - it always faces out.

16. Replace the lug nuts. Tighten them the same way you loosened them - give each nut a few turns, first one, then the one opposite, working around the wheel in a star pattern. Try not to tighten adjacent nuts consecutively.

17. Slowly lower the jack and remove it.

18. Tighten the lugnuts again before driving away. Tighten them as much as you can.

19. Put the hubcap back on, if the wheel's equipped with one.

Some things that can help you:

The best thing to have with your tire changing equipment is a strong, hollow pipe, about two feet long, to use for leverage.

If a lug nut sticks, squirt penetrating oil around its base and wait a moment, then try again. Repeat as needed.

Mind your hands when you remove a flat tire. Strands of steel may be sticking out of the back of the rubber (on a bald tire) and can cut you.

Check out all your tire changing equipment at home before you need it on the road!

Most people's spare tires are flat! Check the tire pressure once a month. Temporary spares (the small ones that have a "T" on them, require 60 PSI, regular sized spares need 32 PSI). A flat spare is useless.

Be Careful!

Cars can slip off jacks. Be extremely careful. Never get under a car with only a tire changing jack holding it up.

To avoid bruised knuckles, pull rather than push when removing lugnuts.

To avoid a strained back, use your knees when pulling on the wrench and pipe rather than your back.

It's on top of the transmission held by a single bolt and clamp. There is some electrical wires going into it. You'll need to take the intake housing and the battery and box out to get to it. Then take the bolt off the clamp and carefully pry the speed sensor out. A word to the wise. It is very hard to get out. Corrosion really bad. I would suggest this repair to get done by an experienced mechaic. While being pried out the speedometer gear has been known to drop down into the case jamming the shift rods. It's a $1800 dollar repair to R and R the transmission to get the gear out.

Take the 2 wires on the relay off and run each into the interior of the car where a suitable switch can be installed. Take the 2 leads and hook them onto the switch. Make sure you have an inline 30 amp fuse installed.

No they are different. The zx2 injectors wont fit an Escort head.

10.5 gallons.