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Ford Escort LX

The Escort LX is a compact car produced by Ford Motor Company. Similar to other Escort models, this vehicle adopted the general design and badge of its European model counterpart.

3,056 Questions

Where is the horn located on a '94 Ford Escort LX and how do you fix it?

right in front of the radiator OR under the driver headlight you will have to lay down to see it and that's most likely where it is i have both so i don't know which is factory first take the horn cover on the steering wheel off and make sure you have power there if yes change horn to check grab the purple wire that you almost broke when you took the 11/32 bolts out of either side of the column and clip positive lead and touch ground to one of the star bolts on the same side the wire is connected to should see 12 volts if not check fuses and make sure the purple wire is connected to the airbag assembly good if you have to change the horn you will see how when you find it and scrape your knuckles doing it

AnswerBe sure to also check the relay located in the driver-side passenger compartment leg area to the right of the fuse box. There are a small set of relays there and determining which one you need can be trial & error. Relays include wiper, flasher-unit, turn signal and headlamp, in addition to the horn relay.

How do you remove the rear brake drum on a 1995 Isuzu truck?

pull the wheels off and on the studs there is two loskrings that hold the drum on during assembily.remove these and the drum should slide off. if not go to the back of the drum and at the lower part of the backing plate you will see a rubber gromet. pull it out and use a brake spoon to adjust the shoes enough to slide the drum off.

Is a Nissan a better car than a ford?

a Nissan is better then a ford because the ford flips easily and it is not safe especially when you have kids in the car.

Where are the heater core hoses located on a 1995 ford escort wagon?

The 1995 Ford Escort series of vehicles have a conventional heater core design and location. The heater hoses through the firewall are on the right-front (passenger) side of the vehicle.?æ

Right rear tire not turning?

Very good change the brake caliper is seized up on that wheel

How do you change a transmission filter on a 1994 Ford Escort LX with a 4EAT automatic transmission?

I have a Mercury Tracer, about the same car. You'll want to pick up a few containers of transmission fluid that matches ford's specs for your tranny. My repair guide says to use MERCON atf. You'll also want to look under your car, and count the number of bolts on the transmission pan, because some cars have different pans. Once you know that, pick up a filter/gasket kit. Compare the new one to the existing pan to be extra sure. Once you've got the parts, you may want to warm up the fluid a bit... but becareful because it can get 200+ degrees F. So take it for a brief spin around the block. If you pan has a drain plug, loosen it and collect the old fluid. If not, start by loosening the bolts a bit, and remove all but the ones on the front of the pan, so it can hang and drain out that way. Just a note, sometimes a bolt or two will be behind a support bar or something, I recommend you get a wrench or a swivel socket. Make sure you don't bend the pan. Once the fluid is out, remove the pan, and clean the gasket mating surfaces. Once done with that, the filter should be held in by a bolt or two. Remove it, and the filter should then come right out. There will likely be an "o" ring that goes on the top of the filter. Make sure you install the new one with the kit before installing the new filter. Bolt the new filter in. When cleaning the pan, make sure you remove the magnets and clean them too. Check for metal fragments. A dust, or dull silver muck is pretty normal, but pieces of metal are not. Don't use paper towels or anything linty to dry the pan, I recommend you just let it air dry. Even a little lint can get in sensitive parts of the tranny. So then you just place the gasket on the pan, and torque it to specs in an alternating pattern. Don't overtighten!! My book says 69-95 Inch/Pounds. I recommend measuring how much fluid came out, and replace a little less than that using a funnel and pouring into the transmission dipstick. Then start the car (don't move it yet!) and slide it through each gear selection for a few seconds. With the car idling, check the dipstick. And add fluid as needed. It's really not hard once you do it once and get the hang of it. Also, make sure your gasket isn't leaking periodically and check the fluid for a few weeks afterwards.

Where is water coming from in your 94 Ford Escort Hatchback it collects under the spare tire and in the well where the car jack is located?

First check the seal around your hatch back. You may have nicked it or torn it. If it is not intact look at repairing. Look also for rust around the rim where the seal is attached...water could leak through there. Are your headliners discoloured? If you have a roof rack or any things piercing the skin of the roof area water could flow from there and down to the spare...that should show as water marks on the headliner. Next check the seals around the side indicators(turn signal/flashers). Make sure no cracks or bad seals. Last is check both Jack and Wheelwhell for holes. Use some food dye and see if leaks out or drain all the water in the wells and use a strong flashlight. Look or have someone look for any light coming through to the ground. If you have light then water can wick up there. Those are some common suggestions of where it could come from. It could also work it's way from under the rear seats where a similar leak as I indicated in the wheel well is under the seats. Then when enough water collects in there and you accelerate fast the water will flow over to the hatch area. Take an hour or two on a sunny weekend and you should be able to trace. If you have holes you can properly fix them with sheet stock welded...but don't do that if you don't know how or near the gas tank/lines/etc. You may fix small holes with compounds or silicone. If using compounds use a waterproof primer and paint it so so water can permeate in....many bad repairs are from filler compound with no water proof primer so water will percolate in. First check the seal around your hatch back. You may have nicked it or torn it. If it is not intact look at repairing. Look also for rust around the rim where the seal is attached...water could leak through there. Are your headliners discoloured? If you have a roof rack or any things piercing the skin of the roof area water could flow from there and down to the spare...that should show as water marks on the headliner. Next check the seals around the side indicators(turn signal/flashers). Make sure no cracks or bad seals. Last is check both Jack and Wheelwhell for holes. Use some food dye and see if leaks out or drain all the water in the wells and use a strong flashlight. Look or have someone look for any light coming through to the ground. If you have light then water can wick up there. Those are some common suggestions of where it could come from. It could also work it's way from under the rear seats where a similar leak as I indicated in the wheel well is under the seats. Then when enough water collects in there and you accelerate fast the water will flow over to the hatch area. Take an hour or two on a sunny weekend and you should be able to trace. If you have holes you can properly fix them with sheet stock welded...but don't do that if you don't know how or near the gas tank/lines/etc. You may fix small holes with compounds or silicone. If using compounds use a waterproof primer and paint it so so water can permeate in....many bad repairs are from filler compound with no water proof primer so water will percolate in.

Why would the water in your radiator turn thick and yellow after overheating. This was both in the radiator and the overflow.?

The most likely cause of this is a blown head gasket dumping oil back into the coolant passages. The oil will mix with the glycol in the antifreeze and make a thick yellow paste. It is very important to flush the cooling system after the repair or this sludge will cause heating problems.

How do you fix a rough Idle after oil change and a possible red-lined rpm?

If you've red-lined the engine and now it runs bad, there are two possibilities. First, if the oil foamed it could cause the lifters to collapse and that might cause the engine to run poorly. Let the foam settle then start the engine a few hours later and the problem should take care of itself. Second, if a valve "kissed" a piston, the valve and/or piston could be damaged. To determine if that's the problem, run a compression test. If any cylinders have zero compression, the valve or piston is probably damaged and you'll need to rebuild the engine, at least the head.

How do you flush a heater core on a 99 ford escort?

The heater core is on the back side of the firewall. It has 2 hoses of 1/2 inch diameter running into it. It is about in the center of the firewall. Take the 2 hoses off the firewall. Get a hose with good pressure and back flush the heater core by running the hose into the side with the long hose on it. If you are not sure which side to do then do it both ways.

How do you replace a tail light on a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo?

Replace tail light on a 2001 Isuzu RodeoThere are 3 screws you need to loosen on a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo. There are two located along the side of the tail light inside the little black things that look like air vents. The other one is located between the bumper the tail light you may need a longer Phillips head screwdriver, preferably magnetic, for that screw. Once you remove all of the screws, slide the tail light straight back. It should pop back out of place. Try not to shake it out of place as to not harm the setting rods. If one or both of the plastic rods do break I don't believe will harm the vehicle or affect the operation of the tail light. Remove the corresponding bulb by turning the bracket counter clockwise and pulling the bulb out. The correct bulb number for a 2001 Isuzu Rodeo is the ever popular 1157.

There are 4 screws to remove 2 in the side that are difficult to see 2 in the bottom that are very difficult to see behind the plate

There were only 3 screws to remove on my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo. The 2 on the side of the tail light and 1 on the bottom just above the rear bumper. After removing all 3 screws you have to pull the entire tail light straight out towards you. This may take some force because there's a plastic pin located at the top of the tail light to help hold it in place. Once you have the entire light out, turn the bracket counter clockwise as stated above. Gently push in the old bulb and turn it to unlock it from the socket then just put the new bulb in. Make sure that all lighting wires are tucked into the back of the light and then line up the plastic pins when you are snapping it back onto the vehicle. Put the 3 screws back in and you are good to go. :)

What kind of oil is used for a 1997 ford escort?

valvoline 10w40 It is recommened by the Ford Dealership, that you run any oil at 5w30 weight, in all seasons. I personally use Castrol 5w30. Only oil that increased my gas mileage. I don't recommend using Valvoline, after managing a store in Rogers, MN. You get to know the inside secrets of your companies oils. As said above, any 5w30 oil. Actually now i believe for has back specd the 5w20 to be used in this engine, but im not 100% sure. call your local dealer if you want and find out.

Where is the camshaft position sensor located on a 1997 Ford Escort?

On our 2000 ford escort zx2 the camshaft position sensor was located right below the oil cap. All it took was a 8mm ratchet.

On our 1998 Escort sedan (SPI engine) it was located on the right side of the block, upper corner behind the valve cover to the right of the fuel injectors. It was a 10mm to get it off, and the new one had a 13mm head.

I broke it getting it out (bad sensor anyway), but to get the new one in, I had to remove the fuel injection rail, actually just remove the rightmost injector to give me clearance. To do that, on the 98, right below the fusebox is a trim panel that you remove. Behind that is a red button, turn the car on, while it's running slip a flat screwdriver into the little lip and push the button up. That cuts off the fuel and the car shuts off. Crank it a few more times to get rid of any pressure. To make the job easier, just get the injector out of the way before starting anything.

It's two 10mm bolts holding the injection rail in place. The one on the left is easy, the one in the right took a 1/4" drive swivel joint, extension and socket wrench to be able to get it off, after a crescent wrench and Freeze Off didn't work and the bolt started to round. With the injector out of the way, it was somewhat easy to get it done, connected everything back up (you'll end up pulling the PCV line off to make room), pushed the red button down, put the trim back in place, and the car started fine. No more stalling.

Engine removal and install for a ford escort zx2 yr. 2000step by step instruction?

This you need to get a Haynes Manual for your car. It's about $20 at the auto parts house. It will explain step by step procedure and will have pictures. It is beyond the scope of this forum to go into it.

How do you adjust the idle speed on a 1994 Accura Legend?

you don't. computer does it. check that there is no air in coolant system or that temp sensor is not faulty. if your surging, that's your problem.