Ford Explorer

Fairly simple:unplug the electrical connecter from injector. You will see 2 metal prongs.With an OHM METER check the resistence between the terminals They should all read 13.8 ohms more or lessIf they are all 14.0 or 13.5 OK whats importantis that they are all the same!They should all be with-in 1 ohm of each other. Example ,if all are 13.5 except 1 which is 16.4 It's bad!GOOD LUCK!

sometimes

When one or more sensors the computer uses to run/tune the engine is providing data the computer cannot understand, and therefore, does not know the best parameters use. It defaults to an "ENGINE SAFEMODE."

You can view the 2002 Ford Explorer owners manual online at

motorcraftservice

Click on Owner Guides

( the " changing the tires " section starts on page 237 , it has instructions with drawings )

4.0 L V6 is 1-4-2-5-3-6 5.0 L V8 is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

Actually , the firing order for the 5.0 L used in the Ford Explorer is ( 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 ) VIN code " P " - the 8th " character " of your VIN

Check the weep hole on the water pump to see if thats where it coming from. It will be a small hole in the casting. If so, you need a water pump. Check the heads to be sure one has not blown.

Tire size:

P245 70/R16 for Eddie Bauer or Limited

P235 70/R16 for XLS and XLT

Pull the cover around the radio and heating system off... start at the top and pry it off. Do this gently but you need to pull pretty hard... It has 6 clips I believe.. 2 on top middle and bottom... then just unscrew the 2 screws at the bottom of the radio and it will slide right out. Just did this on my 2003 Explorer.

Hope that helps!

Either the windshield is leaking, or your heater core is leaking. Usually people can smell anti freeze if it is the heater core. thanks,can it be fixed by a substance like radweld to stop the leak or do you replace it.

The 1999 Ford Explorer uses only one washer fluid reservoir for both front and rear washers. It's the one under the hood on the passenger side. The forward tank is for the radiator overflow, the rearward one is for washer fluid.

There's only one washer motor, too. It runs forward for the front nozzles, and reverse for the rear nozzle.

Just to the right of the headlight switch on your dash is a dimmer wheel switch for

your gauge lighting , if the switch is rotated all the way down ( past the detent )

the interior lights won't come on . Also , if the switch is rotated all the way up ( past

the detent ) the interior lights will come on with the doors closed

I would guess you are low on transmission fluid.

go to www.magicweel.com for more info

Fuel pump relay, maybe

Remove the ingnition mudule located on the driver's side fender, no on top of the fender skirt, on the fender near the firewall. I think it's a 10mm. It looks like a black box(1 1/2" x 4") mounted in an aluminum heat finned casing. OR it is attached to the bottom of your distributor 9(same physical description minus the aluminum piece). Now that you've found it and taken it off, take it to your local autozone and have tested at least 8 times in order to heat it up to normal operating temp. If it fails, BINGO! You answered the million dollar question that plagues and drives Ford owners insane trying to figure it out. You see, this module when it decides to comletely fail will stop your truck from firing and will stop your fuel pumps from pumping, leaving you dead. NO spark, No fuel.

CHECK YOUR RELAYS.......POWER AND FUEL PUMP RELAYS, ONE OR THE OTHER

CAN OPEN WHEN HOT RESULTING IN FUEL PUMP SHUTDOWN:

Could be exhaust manifold at the doughnut ring connection. Not sure if a CRV has a spring loaded connection, but if the exhaust system is plugged (cat and / or muffler) the motor exhaust pressure is blowing out the flange ring.

I don't know, but mine does it too...kinda scary sometimes! I would check the tire pressure first if that is with in spec's then i would have the alignment check as well as the susspension I have this problem too. It seems to me that it happens more often when it is windy. I've had my Vitara blown across lanes on often on windy days.

The doors inside the dash that regulate air movement are not operating.

They may be broken or your control cable might have slipped. You will need to look under the dash to find out more.

In all probability the fuse has blown for one reason or another - start by replacing the fuse (panel located under dash or in kick panel drivers side) if the replacement blows as well then you have a dead short to find (a wire bared and touching metal) good luck

check you mass air flow sensor had one with that problem the other day

check fuel pressure, fuel filter could b clogged

or fuel pump could b bad

Your question cannot be answered.

You have to run the code and see what the problem is. they have a normal known problem thou on the abs to be a rabs sensor located at the top of your differential.

its not an expensive part. Use a 10mm, a 3/8, or a 13mm depending on the model and remove the sensor.

replace it and see if the light goes out. IF the code was a c1230 or c1229 this is probably the problem.

Removing the subwoofer trim panel will only expose the cone but you will not be able to remove it this way, that's why you have to remove the entire paneling. Be carefull when removing the button trim holders near the glass, try to stay away from the glass windows!You will have to remove the whole black enclosure to remove the actual cone since it has a screw attached from behind,that's what is making it so hard to pull! If removing due to damaged cone try some 'shoe goo' as told by someone else in this very same site( in not so severe damage cases)otherwise replace/upgrade with an aftermarket sub. Good luck!

I have found it very easy to pop the metal screen cover off, exposing the cone. There is a foam pad around the edge of the speaker that comes right off exposing 4 screws. Take out the screws and replace the speaker.

You probably shouldn't. You may spill gas on the ground. With modern "vapor return" nozzles, if you overfill your gas tank, the gas gets routed back underground.

I would check the headlamp dimmer ; it is possibly fried.