I believe they are also called (stabilizer bar),they are behind the front tires,1 on each side of course.Usually you start hearing a knocking sound when hitting bumps.People say to exchange both at the same time but not necessary.Get them fixed asap because they wear down the connection area and you don't want them to break while driving because you could lose steering ability.

I'm weak on Ford's, but as far as I know the sway bar goes across from one wheel to the other in front of the wheels. Damage from impact or worn rubber bushings.

The lenses, like those of many other newer model cars, get cloudy with time. This cloud can be removed by way of simple polishing. If you have access to a right angle drill and a polishing pad, you have the tools you need. Now, before mounting your polishing pad on the rubber, (flexible), backing plate soak it in water then wring it as dry as possible, by hand. Mount the pad then apply a bit of polishing compound to the pad and a smear on the lens. I use old fashioned Dupont polishing compound paste. Carefully polish the entire lens with the pad. Apply more compound as needed. Be careful. The compound is an abrasive and will remove the paint and chrome plating from neighboring parts. You can use masking tape to cover and protect them.

After a couple minutes of polishing, use a clean dry cloth to remove the compound haze. Continue working the compound on the lenses until you are happy with the results. Wipe them with the clean dry cloth and you're done. Think of it like waxing the car. By the way, the process can be done by hand too. It just takes longer. I don't recommend a standard straight angle drill as they are very hard to control on smooth rounded surfaces.

THE HEATER CORE MUST BE REPLACED. IF THE HEATER CORE DOES NOT

WORK THEN YOU'LL ONLY RECEIVE AIR PUSHING THROUGH THE VENTS

THE HEATER CORE HEATS UP WHEN YOU SET TO WARM/HOT AIR ON YOUR DASH BOARD (LIKE LITTLE HOT COILS) THE BLOWER FAN PUSHES THROUGH THE HEATER CORE GIVING HEAT AS IT PASSES THROUGH THE VENTS. THESE HEATER CORES GENERALLY COST $20.OO DOLLARS

EXAMPLE: YOU TURN ON A BOX FAN DURING THE SUMMER TO COOL OFF

AND EVERYTHING IS GOOD/COMFORTABLE. NOW YOU PLACE A RADIATOR

IN FRONT OF THE BOX FAN AND YOU'LL RECIEVE HOT AIR .

GET THE PICTURE. SO THE HEATER CORE AND RADIATOR WORK TOGETHER

AND THE ANTI-FREEZE. THE RADIATOR WARMS UP-THEN THE HEATER CORE

AND THE FAN BLOWER PUSHES THE WARM AIR OUT THROUGH THE VENTS.

HOPE THIS HELPS

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

STAY WARM.

.......................................................................................!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CHECK THIS LINK http://www.automotiveforums.com/t524247.html

I would use a tap and die set to re-thread the shaft down one size.

Since it's just a hold-down nut, it won't affect the functionality.

There is a button under the top cover that releases the internal part of the vcr player to come out of the console.

Even though tape is so "yesterday", I still keep a few in the van for moments of idle entertainment ;)

(pun intended!)

rear you use a torx driver to remove taillight assembly screws. them replace bulb.

If you have verified the vibration is coming from the axle, then it needs to be replaced. It's not really a bad repair job - even for us backyard mechanics.

Vibrations can also come from a bad tire (split belts), or worn suspension parts.

the fastest way to tell is if the center intake bolts are not there.
the vortec heads that everyone wants for performance have no center intake bolts.

See link below.

My guess would be a bad dimmer switch or a loose ground connection caused be a aftermarket radio being installed. Hope it helps!!! Slackers Of Va.

They need to be checked, cleaned and repacked.

On a 2001 Ford Windstar , 3.8 liter V6 engine :

firewall

1-----2-----3

4-----5-----6

front of vehicle > driver

The engine coolant should be flushed at around 3-5 years - although I would not recommend the 5 years.

Keep an eye on coolant reservoir in the engine compartment - if there's any sign of it getting "ugly" - brownish, discolored, yucky - have the system flushed and refreshed.

See "Related Questions" below for more

25 gallons

On a 2000 Ford Windstar :

Open the drivers door , and on the latch pillar will be an information sticker

that shows the original size of tires on the vehicle from the factory

Engine tappets

How do I repair my third row seats in my 2000 windstar that will not stay up properly.

Hire a professional technician!

Hire a professional technician!

From BLUESTG: All the door lock actuators are the same. They are labeled front, back, left, and right for the bracket that is put on them to attach it to the door. So you can buy any door actuator and just reuse the bracket in you current door. Just remove the rear door panel, it is held in place by plastic push in pins. So you may have to pry it a little to get it off. Reach up a pull out the connecting rod from actuator to the lock. Drill out the two rivits. Lower acturator and disconnect the wiring. Transfer bracket to new actuator. Connect wiring. install with new rivits, but I recomend short screws. The rivits tend to elongate after a lot of actuations. Attach rod from the lock. Test, and push on the door cover.

2000 3.8 Lower intake manifold (manifold to cylinder head) 1st step is 44 inch pounds, 2nd step is 89 inch pounds. This must be done in sequence.

I recall seeing this mentioned as I was perusing my Owners Manual one boring night... I think it was in the same section that talks about the "auto-lock" function.

See "Related Questions" below for links to free Owners Manual downloads... I'm confident you'll find the instructions there.

The overdrive light blinks when the computer senses a transmission problem. (IE. Torque Converter failure) The reason it feels like it downshifts is due to the computer putting the transmission into a fail-safe mode to reduce further transmission damage.

Follow the LOWER radiator hose from the radiator .

It connects to the water pump on the engine on a 1998 Ford Windstar

First of all, you will need to locate the drive belt tensioner and the drive belt tensioner pulley. There should be a belt routing map under the hood.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.0L engine: the drive belt tensioner is located between the crankshaft pulley and the water pump pulley and the drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator (or generator) and power steering pump.

If you have a 6 cyl 3.8L engine, the drive belt tensioner is located at the very back of the engine (if you follow the belt back from the alternator, the first pulley you come to will be the drive best tensioner) and it's very inconvenient to get to. The drive belt tensioner pulley is located between the alternator and the power steering pump pulley.

Per Chilton's manual, use a 15mm wrench on the bolt of the drive belt tensioner and rotate the tensioner clockwise to release the tension. Remove the belt from the drive belt tension pulley. When installing the new belt, make sure that the drive belt is routed correctly and note the position of the indicator mark on the tensioner.

__________________________________________________________________________________________________

NOTE: The above, is mostly correct, with the exception that the tensioner pulley is NOT between the alternator and power steering pump on the 3.8 litre. The power steering pump is located on the forward most portion of the motor, on the passenger side of the vehicle. The only pulley close to being in between both of those pulleys is the idler pulley, not tensioner. The tensioner is however the furthest towards the firewall of all the pulleys, as stated above.

To state that the tensioner pulley is located in an area that is "inconvenient" is an understatement to the extreme. There is barely enough room to get your arm in there and if your a big man, forget it. Find someone with thinner proportions. Or, get a REALLY long 15mm wrench. When I say that, I mean something along the lines of 3 ft. in length. That does not have an angled box end.

Failing that, and as an aside, I would like to share a "mechanics technique" for applying leverage, when you don't have enough, and are working with limited space that do not allow for sockets, and you don't have a breaker bar that will fit over the end of the wrench, as I discovered mine would not.

What I did, in this instance, for releasing the tension on the belt pulley's, as I needed to replace the alternator in this case, was I placed the 15mm wrench on the tensioner bolt. I feel it is important to note, that I was using an angled box end to do this portion of the job, which is NOT the best choice, but it was what I had. I had the open end facing up, and the angle head was placed in such a manner as to have the open end leaning towards the distributor. I then took a large (1" open/box end) wrench, which so happened to be about a foot long, and placed open end horizontal and slid it into the open end of the 15mm. There was no room to do this in the traditional manner, which is to actually hook the box end around the open end, in such a way as to make two wrenches extend and become one. The hood sill is in the way. So I placed the two open ends together.

When I pressed downwards on the box end of the 1" wrench, it gave enough extra leverage, that I was able to rotate the tensioner and release the belt. You MUST push down on this enough to come close to the alternator itself, for this to work, but the combination of wrenches is a viable solution, if you can't just go out and purchase a crowbar, or don't have the proper length of 15mm to give you the leverage that you need. This technique will also allow you to work with your free hand to remove the belt from the alternator. When you release your tension again, the end of your 15mm should rest against the A/C hoses at the firewall. This is fine, as the tension this creates will keep the tensioner pulley available and you can remove the larger wrench from the equation temporarily, until you are ready to place the belt over the final pulley. Or when you are done replacing the alternator.

As a note of caution, if you are using this technique, do be aware of your angles. If the leverage wrench slips, the belt will snap instantly back into place. KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE PULLEYS and be MINDFUL of your steadiness when working this leverage technique. It ISN'T the most stable. The tensioner clamps down with enough force, that you CAN lose fingers... Or at least have them crushed. I don't want that happening to you.

I people with a creative solution to tensioner pulley leverage issues. It is simple and very effective, but caution is warranted.

The forum is working! The info provided for changing serpentine belt on 95 Ford Windstar was invaluable to my success, albeit I have a 3.8L 1996 Windstar. Thanks for participating people! As an addendum that someone might find of use to remove/replace belt as the solution was different from anything I found�

Pulley locations: Looking across engin from passenger side(Failed to maintain formatting of poor man's diagram. Check on hood for belt ID and layout; found one on internet as well:

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small0900823d801d2c16.jpg

Refer to above link for pulley IDs as I reference them by number.

Finally determined the drive belt tensioner pulley (#4) gave up the ghost causing belt to pop off. As of Sept 05, Ford dealer: ~$33.00. Internet: ~$16.00, but when you can�t wait for delivery�Ford dealer (tried Pep Boys & AutoZone, didn�t have).

1)Replaced #4 pulley (comes w/mounting bolt) using an 18mm ratcheting combo wrench made by GearWrench and purchased from Lowes (~$10). Chose this as the ratchet side is as thin as the crescent side (too small a space for normal ratchet w/socket).

2) I routed belt per drawing on vehicle leaving belt off #4 and using someone�s forum suggestion, I taped belt to #6 pulley w/only masking tape which worked well enough to hold belt in position.

3) Purchased a 14 inch crowbar (called a �construction tool� by Lowes) for $9.00. One end flares out at ~45 deg., other end heavily curves to 90 deg. in opposite direction of 45 deg. flare. The key to success w/this tool is the curvature providing excellent torque/rotation through a smaller distance than anything straight. I placed the 45 deg end in a notch on the right side of drive belt tensioner (mounted to the engine block and attached to #7. Applied downward force on crowbar until 90 deg. end barely made contact w/generator. I was then able to hold in position w/one hand and slip remaining belt on pulley #4. Belt placement took 5 minutes!!

4) Final note: #7 along w/attached part (not sure what this is called: spring loaded idler pulley?) to engine block is a self-adjusting tensioner. It naturally wants to rotate toward firewall so rotating it toward the front of the car releases tension and when released automatically tightens belt aligning markings on �spring loaded idler pulley�. I originally tried to use #7 as others suggested, but I found the work space too tight. I also slid an extension pipe over the 15mm wrench to increase torque, but the pipe I used was too long such that when I relieved belt tension the pipe prevented easy access to the belt on #4 as the two pulleys are aligned.

Oh thank you. I had success using the crowbar technique. I had to replace the idler pulley (item #4) on my 1996 Windstar as the old one lost all its bearings and was sparking. The replacement was plastic and not rounded making it difficult to slide the belt on. I almost ran to a different parts store to shop for an identical replacement. 60 seconds to replace the pulley. 60 minutes or more fighting to get the belt on. What finally did it for me was the crowbar. I found that pushing the crow bar down past the alternater, it put pressure on the belt. I had to start with the crow bar through the belt, into the notch of the tensioner. It was a tight fit, but when I cranked the crow bar down, the last time (of course the 30 times before it wasn't just right), the belt slid on. Good luck to the next person who reads this. Hope this helped, or at least encourages you, even more.

The injector gets full time positive power from the ignition key on circuit. The PCM pulses the ground. You could have a short to ground on the injector pulse circuit, or the most likely thing is the injector driver in the PCM is bad. If you have the fuel rail unbolted and pulled up where you can see the injectors, as I expect you probably do, disconnect the PCM, and turn the key on. If the injector does not spray out, then the PCM is the issue. if the injector sprays with the PCM detached,then there may be a short to ground in the wire harness.