Geo Tracker

Just above the ignition coil on the firewall just in front of the driver

front and rear differentials that is if it is a 4x4

At this time there is no law against the use of GPS systems to track vehicles. What can be unlawful is the usage to which they are put such as 'stalking' somoene.

There is a cable on the passanger side of the center console that goes up under a plate behind the glove box. Remove the glove box and the plastic plate and follow the cable. The cable attaches to a little metal rod that adjusts the heater temperature. If this cable becomes separated from the rod then it will snap the rod back to the "cold" temp selection. Simply reattach the cable to the rod and adjust the temp. But, you will probally have to do this every time you change the temp settings on your heater control panel. So, I suggest you change it to the hot setting in the winter and leave it there until you want to change it again to cold in the summer.

HI, Four inch (4") is the standard speaker that is fit there now but a five and a half (5 1/2") will fit also, a little cutting of the fiberboard is necessary and when it comes to putting the panel back on, you'll need to open the hole and use a new speaker cover because the holes that are there are for the four inch (4") that's in there. There are a few very good four inch (4") speakers out there, check at Crutchfield and then if money is no object, then CDT Audio. You could use component type speakers and mount the tweeter high, it's just more work. Hope this helps. Good luck. Steve H.

It isn't adjustable. It is controled by the computer

1989 - 1998, 2 door, wheel base = 86.6", 4 door, 97.6.

1989 - 1995, 2 door, overall length = 142.5".

1996 - 1998, 2 door, overall length = 143.7".

1996 - 1998, 4 door, overall length = 158.7".

The hood pull is located in the glove box at the top, just to the right works like a regular pull latch.

in the dist.

in the glove box

montreal

The only recommendation I can give you is to slow down for turns. Turning to fast or driving like it's a sports car is just asking for trouble. If you just take it easy on the turns, then the threat of flipping is pretty low. In fact, only one test said it was "easy to flip" and that was for a different car, the Suzuki Samurai which, despite looking similar, is a completely different car, and there is evidence (videos) that those tests were modified specifically to paint a bad picture, though Consumer Reports denies this.

Suzuki even filmed footage of them performing the turns necessary to just get the Samurai on two wheels. If your a casual/normal driver and not a crazy speed demon who wants to go to Nascar with their Geo, then you shouldn't be afraid of flipping that much. Be more afraid of windy days that you have long trips on highways, the Tracker is light and is easily pushed by crosswind.

Final word: Trackers are not that easy to flip as you have heard unless you drive it like a Metro or a Storm. Take it easy and don't push it. Remember, the Tracker only has seatbelts for safety (usually) so don't risk anything. The best way to impove any car in the turns is to lower the ride. Because if you lower the car you will lower the center of gravity, whitch in turns improves the handling. However you should lower the car the right way not the wrong way. EXAMPLES WRONG WAY: cut or heat the springs to lower the suspension RIGHT WAY: Buy aftermarket drop spindles and aftermarket lowering srings or struts

If an 8" wheel has a 0 offset, that converts to a 4.5" backspace.

The door handle is held on by one Phillips screw. Remove it. Slide the door handle forward about 1/2 inch to release it. It will still be connected to the rod that opens the door. Behind the doorhandle where the handle connects to the rod is a white plastic retainer attached to the handle and clamped around the rod. Take a screwdriver and pry (it doesn't take much force) the white plastic retainer away from the handle. It will pop off of the rod and remain connected to the door handle. Lift the rod up. Installation is the reverse and easier once you see how it's made.

Remove the ashtray, it just slides out, and unscrew the two Phillips head screws underneath it. Remove the A/C and heater control panel by popping of the heads of the switches and the pulling out the unit. There is no screws involved when removing the control panel, it is held on by clips. Unscrew the Phillips head screws behind the control panel. Now the black trim paneling that surrounds the radio and A/C control panel should slip off(it is what was being held on by the four screws) Now you have direct access to the four screws that hold on the radio.

The hood latch is in the glove box and once you open the box you will see it and just pull it.

just use a flat screw driver or anything thin ...slowly push the screw driver into the (front or behind) the cover of the side markers......

"front" side markers should be pushed backward ....."rear" side markers should be pushed forward...very slowly and they will pop up.. there are no screws..they just pop up .then u easily can access the small light bulb..

On my 1996 Geo Tracker automatic transmission 4wd it's located (in the engine

compartment) on the passenger directly behind the intake (to the driver side of the battery) I hope that helps

Yes i have a discount ecm warehouse ecm installed in my tracker .i have had very good luck with there product.fast shipping great product and no high core charges.

I own a 1998 tracker and the guy at the dealership showed us to pull the emergency brake up just a notch or two from the release position and they will go off and supposedly it's not wearing on your brakes. Try it and see. I always drive with my lights on anyway.

You don't want to pull up on the ebrake,i own a 2003 and on the dash rihgt side this is little disc shape cover pry it up and disconnect the sensor that's for automatic lights. under the dash there is a plug near the console . Go to Google and do a search "how to disable DRl lights" That's where i found it

Solution:

I did the E-Brake trick and it worked, until I did my rear brakes. Even the one notch ended up to be too tight and would drag. I deliver newspapers and drive on the wrong side of the road so turning off the lights is absolutely necessary to avoid confusing drunk, sleepy, or elderly drivers. Without turning off my headlights, they try to go to my left, and almost drive into the ditch.

Here is what I have done: Remove the daylight sensor from on top of the dash, on the passenger side. It just pops out and disconnect the sensor from the cable. Next, disassemble the center console. There are just a few screws, and it lifts up and off the shifter. Remove the power connector for the Aux jack. Now I took a jumper wire with alligator jacks on both ends, and grounded the emergency brake sensor. This tricks the computer into thinking you've pulled the lever. Just route the jumper wire to avoid interference with anything, and use micro zip-ties to hold it in place if necessary. I personally used a very heavy gauge solid strand jumper wire, which was very short. I just bent it into shape and it hasn't moved. Now reassemble your console. Your BRAKE light will stay on, but there are no other ill effects. I have also passed NYS inspection without having to disconnect the jumper wire, so you should be good there, also.

My book says that it means "closed throttle position switch" Ed

I've had this happen to my Tracker, as well as a friend's. In both cases it turned out to be either the Crank Angle Sensor, or the wiring going to it. Let me ask you, when it randomly dies does the RPM gauge jump all around or temporarily go to zero? If so, it's certainly a CAS issue. Mine spent 6 months in a garage with a mechanic working on it nonstop. They basically have no idea what they're doing, and anything they can't immediately explain gets chalked up as "Bad ECU." Don't listen to them. I had to replace 3/4 of the parts on that vehicle before the mechanic gave it back to me, still not working. All it took was shorting the diagnostic pin block (4 pin connector, right by the battery) and getting the code out of the computer. The computer gave a Code 42, which is CAS, so I checked that circuit. It's been running fine ever since.

I have had it happening to mine too. Eventually it would not restart. First fix replaced some corroded wires at the gas tank end of the system. Now after another recurrence, the shop is getting no signal from the computer. Bummer, cuz that is spendy to replace. I guess hairline cracks develop in the circuit board with age. It must flex just a little, maybe with temp changes, so circuits open and close until it fails.

An from "91tracker":I found a problem on it that made a huge difference. I found a broken ground that made my tracker run VERY rough so i spliced a new eye back on it and it doesnt drop to 500rpms and die on me anymore, and now when my temp. go to operating temp. and i shut it off it will start for me unlike when it had the broken ground.so you can check for broken grounds like mine or try tuning the timing.

www.troublecodes.net Good luck I have a 1995 jdauksz1@charter.net

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