Geo Tracker

replace ignition switch and rekey

Well I had that problem when I got my qx4....Simple note...key doesnt go all the way inside key hole.....some of the key should be sticking out and then turn gently....hope that helps

I had this problem one morning and called my mechanic. I also thought it was the ignitiion, but he told me to try another key. That was the problem! My key had worn down enough to not work properly. It seemed like the ignition was bad because I could not unlock the steering wheel. If you think about it, changing the ignition gives you a new key. Always try the least expensive first.

Jessie

I recommend you get a service manual; the one the dealer techs use not Chilton, etc.. Ebay usually have these for the specific year. If you are going to do any work on your car you will need the service manual. The head can be removed after you remove the intake and exhaust manifolds, valve cover,head bolts (the 16v engine requires some of the rocker arms be removed to get to the head bolts). The service manual will give a step by step procedure.

If it's running, then it couldn't be raw gas. You are seeing water dripping from the accumulation of the water vapor. Absolutely normal.

see my profile see link.

click , maintenance then ignition timing.

behold

Most countries use dams. Some of these countries include the United States, Tajikistan, Switzerland, Brazil, and Russia.

== == It is an electrical fan motor. It needs electricity to run it, as well as a complete wiring circuit, with a good fuse and a properly working control switch. Check the fuse, check the wiring to the motor, check the control switch. Don't know how to do that? Take it to a qualified auto mechanic, who does know how, or you can really screw it up, trying to fix it yourself, and then STILL have to pay a pro to fix it.

Hi, Could be the fuel pump if it just started or the fuse or relay. Steve H.

Most of the time a quick jerk of the steering wheel either to the left or right helps.

Another thought, try to step on the brake. To release the turn on my car I have to press the break peddle to get it to move.

HI, There are definitely a timing belt and a water pump on the engine. The timing belt is behind the cover that is on the front of the engine and when there you will also find the timing belt tensioner, they come as a set when you purchase them. The water pump is also at the front of the engine and sits at the left of the timing belt cover as you look at the engine, the pump is driven by the belt, you can't miss it. Happy repairing and good luck.Steve H.

If it's the same as the 96 1.5l twin cam. Put the engine on tdc for no1 cyl. Cam sprocket marks on mine are set level to the top of the head, each pointing to the outside of the motor ie at 180 degrees apart. This should give you valves shut on cyl 1- end of compression/firing, and no 4 cyl with inlet and exhaust barely open ie changing over from end of exhaust stroke to start of inlet stroke. (Also referred to as "rocking") If the belt has been broken it is probably worth making sure that the valves are not bent.

Well depends of what kind of hard start and transmission your car may have. It can be and electrical, transmission, engine issue

95-97 I believe. I've had mine replaced (specially built) and it went bad again. Personally I think it had to do with the mechanic more than the parts..bought another one off eBay for about $125. Apparently they don't make them anymore. :(

go to KSL.COM and go to cars and type it in. they should have a crap load. but you have to set your price and distance how far you want to look.

Not sure what you mean but Geo's are made by Suzuki and use Suzuki engines.

Most of the other forums say to "insert key and tap the key with something while turning it" and it has worked for several. It worked for me but it is just a temporary fix because it will happen again. They say you will eventually need to replace the ignition tumblers.

check inside the glove compartment on the top part of it.in my 1992 sidekick that's where it is located, hope this was some help.

For the sake of future people searching the internet for solutions to this problem, here's my answer after having the same problem this morning and dealing with it.

If you have basic mechanical skills (can operate a screwdriver without putting an eye out), here's a $50 full repair. It only takes 30 mins too!

Here's some photos and instructions that I didn't find until AFTER I wrote mine out. Ugh oh well

http://forums.focaljet.com/team-tech/497529-new-ignition-cylinder-help.HTML

-Remove the "knee" trim panel (two screws on the bottom)

-Remove the plastic surrounding the steering column (three hex screws on bottom/front) to expose the lock assembly

-there's a black ring surrounding the lock face, carefully remove it by removing the 4-wire electrical connector (this is what senses your key's transponder) and remove the single Phillips screw. Pull it off and move it to the side.

-if the key doesn't insert, use the handle of a large screwdriver and tap it into the lock. it takes a bit of tapping, but nothing extreme, just don't break the key off!

-once the key is in, turn it to accessory mode

-the only thing holding the key cylinder in place is a single small retainer button. It's facing the back of the steering wheel. It needs minimal amount of pressure to press it, but a screwdriver won't fit. Try a bent paper clip.

-once depressed, use your other hand to pull the whole cylinder out.

-go to your ford dealer with your VIN number and some basic proof of ownership. Ask for a "key code". He will provide a four-digit code with a letter at the end (FYI, the key code is the actual size measurement/order of the pistons in your lock cylinder, it corresponds to your keys "bumps" or cut)

-Once you have the code like "2403X" you can buy a cylinder on eBay, there's a guy selling new ones for $50 shipped. just search for "Focus ignition cylinder"

-after you order, call them up and provide the keycode and he will rekey the lock for free to match your old key, he'll also provide you with matching cut accessory keys.

-Most likely your key is a transponder key (it has a big black molded plastic top). There's a radio emitter in there that MUST be within about a foot of your key slot. Remove the original key from the old lock if you can, or at worst just cut it off at the base. You must leave that on your key ring with the new key for it to work (unless you have a spare transponder key, they're like $150)

-replace the new cylinder in reverse order and you're good to go!

I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY OVER YOUR ACTIONS, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Technically with the transponder by the sensor, a simple screwdriver will turn the socket and start the car. I haven't tried it but if you REALLY need use of the car and can't wait a few days for the new part, it's a possibility. Be ready for the cops to ask questions if they see you though!

good luck!

your cat converter burns unburn gass sent out of the truck in the converter then uses it in the engine it saves you gass and makes your truck not smell like its from the 40's Also it is likely the check engine light will come on and stay on. It is also illegal to remove the cat.

I had to replace the injector itself the other day as it was not allowing the fuel to go into the TBI unit. I used the injector test light on the harness and it show the computer as being good.

Grasp light fixture, Rotate 90 degrees counterclockwise, Pull outward but do not exceed length of wire attached to rear of fixture. Pull "peanut" bulb straight out of socket. Go to store and match burnt-out peanut bulb exactly (I've used The Sylvania "xenon-look" bulbs lately as they don't burn-out for over 2 years...). Put the new bulb in fixture with a straight-in push, Line up the fixture's "ears" with slots in license plate hood, push in and twist 90 degrees clockwise.

1-3-4 2 counter clockwise

Stock, with no modifications. 235/75R15. However, there are other options for those interested...

I have had many Trackers/Sidekicks. With a couple hours work, you can cut about 1 1/2" from the lip of each fender, and hammer in your fender wells. You'd be surprised how most of those indentations don't have any real purpose. I've cleared 31x10.5 with that simple mod.

If you don't want to do any cutting, then at minimum you will need to purchase some longer springs and long travel shocks. That alone is going to run you about $500+, and will likely only give you about 2", and you can fit 31x10.5, maybe 32's with some fender hammering.

You can also go the package route, calmini, old man emu, etc. Spend about $800-$1000 and get yourself a 3"-5" lift. Then no hammering or cutting required, 32's will fit no problem.

TUNE UP.

this is what us old guys call it.

but new guys cringe. (wimps) (will say you cant tune motor, jokers... all....)

we call it Service Points. see op guide in glove box, its free ask any dealer..etc.

the first missing fact is the motor.

the v6 dont have a distributor the 1.6L I4 does.

what we do is replace all the short lived parts in the system

and check the state of tune with a scan tool, or even 5 gas testing.

that is what a true PRO will do. ASE !

key parts to change depend on age, miles and if done last time correct.

60,000 miles.

1: spark plugs.

2: 1.6L spark wires.

3: DOHC, new COP BOOTS.

4: 1.6L new disty cap and rotor, use Bosch ,or NGK ,never fleabay junk."noname"

5: hoses, if over 10years old

6: belts if over 5.

7: filters, all.

8: front oxygen sensor if over 100k old. (miles)

i then check the STATE OF TUNE

i check for closed loop operation at idle and cruise.

and LTFT , (fuel trim) for bad readings, and correct them. (like air leaks)

that is my short answer. ASE. retired.

Go to Google.com and type in the words "1990 Geo Tracker firing order" and it will get you to a site that will tell you.