Heating AC and Engine Cooling

fill the radiator back up with water/coolant then start the car with the cap off and continue to fill it up as it is being sucked into the motor replace the cap and let the car warm up if it still gets hot shut it off and keep repeting till it wont accept water any more but the real question is why did it over heat but that's another subject right?

Just about every major city has at least one and usually several shops that specialize in radiator repair. They remove the "caps" or "tanks" of the radiators and run a rod through the small tubes. The process is called "rodding" the radiator. The parts are then dipped in a solvent and cleaned again. The radiator is then re-assembled and you are ready with a radiator that is like new. Some of the newer radiators, with the platic cans are not as suitable for this process. Also, the brass radiators can be soldered if there are leaks, making them somewhat more desirable. But then, some of the newer radiators seem to keep going for a long time, so it's all just a crap-shoot.

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It sounds to me like the heater core is out. Have you noticed the floor wet recently? that's a sure sign of heater core issues. The other option is it will act like that if it has no antifreeze or water in the radiator, in other words the radiator is dry.

Just a suggestion if someone has replaced the thermostat its possible they installed it pointing in the wrong direction this could account for cold air and the guage reading over hot. , EzForJesus

You don't!!!! If the a/c clutch is stuck and causing your engine not to start, you can do one of two things. You can buy/rent a puller, pull off the a/c clutch and install a new one. The a/c will probably not work, but at least the belt will turn and you can start the car. The other option is to replace the a/c compressor. Now...a cheap way to do this if you don't mind driving a car without an air conditioner (i've done it for 6 years now...in arizona!!), is to go to a junk yard and get an old a/c compressor off of a car that's clutch is not stuck. Put it in your car and it will work. You cannot "re-route" a serpentine belt. I've never heard of anyone ever doing that!

All of the air conditioner door are located in the evaporator case. They have electric motors that go bad. You may have to remove the glove box to gain access.

You don't. The 2000 Saturn refrigerant is not Freon R12 it contains R134a. Add it at the Low pressure port. You have a leak or it would not be necessary to add refrigerant. It is illegal to add refrigerant to a system with a leak without first repairing the leak. Take it to a professional and have the leak fixed.

If by "bleed" you mean drain, disconnect the lower of the two hoses (do not confuse with the pipes from the AC evaporator) and drain the coolant into a bucket. If you are flushing the system (which you should if you are changing the coolant anyway), dont bother draining it, most of the coolant will flow out anyway, just do the coolant flush and fill from the radiator.

because when car is sitting still and at idle you do not have "air flow" coming into radiator to help cool it as you do when you are driving. So fan compensates for this higher engine - antifreeze temperature to try and cool it off it has to work harder.

Under the hood on the passengers side located in the a/c evaporator housing next to the blower motor and held in place by two screws...............

You will have to remove the air dryer, you will loss coolant. Under the air dryer is a silver tube and the orfice is in that tube. Must use needle-nose pliers to remove. you will have a little trouble putting in the new one because the of the o ring, use a little vaseline on it. the orfice should go in screen side first, and little flat plastic toward the front of the car. Just replaced on and it's not fun.

The ac system also removes humidity which helps clear the window faster.

I would change the thermostat first. If that dont work change water pump

Heater cores are located behind the dash panel in a big black plastic box (passenger side of the car). The water comes in through the firewall of the car and circulates through the core inside the car and then flows back out to the engine. If you need to change it...my prayers are with you. I have done this before on other cars and pulling the dash panel is never fun. The hardest part is locating which bolts have to be removed but the wiring can also be a mess. If there is water leaking in the floor of your car, do NOT assume that the heater core is leaking. My Grand Prix did this and I found out it was a clogged drain pipe. The black plastic box has a drain to allow condensation from the a/c to drain on the ground which is why you have water puddles after you park your car and have been running the a/c or defroster. If this drain pipe becomes clogged, the condensation will not drain and the water will spill into your floor inside the car. The first thing I would do is to look for a small rubber hose coming from the firewall (in the engine compartment) around the middle of the car about the height of the bottom of the dash. This is the drain hose I referenced earlier. Take compressed air and gently blow back through it to make sure it is open and see if the water stops coming into your car. You can also use a small wire or something similar to stick up in there to clear any clogs, but be careful not to poke the heater or a/c core! (twilmoth@ev1.net)

Tom

Edit - I am working on replacing my heater core on my 1993 Grand Prix currently. In order to reach it, you must remove the ashtray. It helps to disconnect the wires, there are only 2, so it isn't dangling in your way while you lay upside down on your front seat under your dash. There are only two or four bolts to remove the ashtray - its quite simple.

It also helps to remove the interior fascia that covers the rear of the footwells. Use a med. Phillips head to remove the plastic screws and these will pop right out. You also have to remove the fascia covering the back panel below the ashtray. Feel around for the screws... a 1/4 in drive ratchet w/ a 7mm socket are a HUGE Help. You'll also need a 1/4 extension. I found all of the screws by feel, but the thing still takes some... urging? to get it out the rest of the way. This will expose the heater core box... again feel for the join and follow it around for the screws... there are more than you think... This too takes some pushing in prodding to get out once you find the screws, but once it's off, the heater core is revealed... CAREFUL!!! I'm assuming you're doing this cause your heater core is leaking, (why else would you want to?) so there's going to be a boat load of antifreeze in the heater core box. Personally, I wasn't thinking this and dumped about half on my head. Nasty stuff. Move out of the way.

Before removing the heater core from its bracket go under the hood and detatch the hoses from it... they're about a foot in from the drivers side and about a foot down. If you find a simple way to do this, let me know. I've thus far found it impossible to do with out cutting the hose.

The metal tubes are mounted to the fire wall on the interior by one bolt. Undo this, pop the bracets holding the body in, and voila! Your heater core should pull right out.

Good luck in your fixing!

~Sarah

Every vehicle gets hot to the touch, it doesnt mean that your over heating or anything... a Plymouth Voyager gets 195 Degrees. the heat is actually better for the invironment then when the engine is cold because the heat helps burn all gases and keeps it from the air.

it's located in superior left side or passenger side around the windshield water hose or shock passenger side (you need stand on front of the car)

www.spal-usa.com look under motorcycle/ATV 5.2"

at the hd dealers.

"A BAD TEMP SENSOR"

Or it could probably be a broken relay of the compressor. Try looking at that one as well.

I had this same problem and it had nothing to do with the fan but the transmission. The dealership did some computer upgrade and fixed the problem The older model years should have had a PCM re-flash from the dealer. If this problem re-occurs after the fan-clutch is replaced then a reflash is needed. There are many cases where the reflash is the only correstion needed and the dealer is the only place it can be done unless you know a PCM tuner shop.

You have a bad heater core the heater core is a small radiator type unit under the dash of your car that sends hot water from the cooling system runs through a fan blows on it and warm air comes out. It is in the cab under the dash and it is leaking that why you smell "hot water" You need a experienced mechanic or get a book Chiltons if you what to fix it yourself

Dexcool

Its either in the coolant overflow tank or in the side of the radiator

air conditioning