Honda Accord LX

'I have been through this on my 94 Altima, and let me warn you, it's not a walk in the park by any stretch of the imagination. The PCV valve is located beneath the intake manifold on the right (passenger) side. It threads into the breather separator and points toward the center of the car. To remove it, you'll have to remove the Idle Air Control valve located on the end of the manifold log. Be aware that you'll have to do at least part of this task underneath the car, and that the IAC valve has antifreeze circulating through it (I found this out the HARD way!!!!!). It also might help to unbolt the breather separator from the head. If you can afford it, pay a mechanic if it really needs to be done.

There is no adjustment on rack and pinion steering. If you're steering is sloppy or something I suggest you get an alignment and your front end checked.

200 Horse Power. The 5.0 HO in the 1991 to 1993 Thunderbirds had the same engine as the 1994-95 Mustang GT. 1993 Thunderbird with the 5.0 HO, had the same cam as in the 1993 Mustang Cobra. Only that year has it. The cam reduced Total HorsePower, but gained in Tourqe. 5.0 HO Thunderbirds are one of the best and rarly seen MN12 plateform. They Make Great Sleepers....

The 2003 Honda Accord has a 2.4 L base engine size.

The airbag (SRS) light is on because there is a problem with the system. Due to the fact that working on this system can be hazardous I recommend you have it repaired by a professional. He will reset the light once the system is repaired.

Fuel tank. Access panel in trunk. Early 80's Accords have an electric in-line fuel pump mounted just forward of the left-rear wheel. The pump is mounted atop a plate that is probably rusted in place(if not through) by now. A rubber boot helps to protect the fittings. If you replace the pump, also replace the steel fuel line going to it, as these tend to rust through.

Well, my Chiltons Shop Manual isn't much help. Nice diagrams, but limited info on proceudre. Im thinking that if the alternator is a "remove from underneath" scenario, the pump is also.... Manual says disconnect negative battery cable, loosen bolts on water pump, loosen water pump belt & remove, after removing alternator belt. Then remove water pump pully, then pump itself. On later models you have to align the timing belt and remove it along with the valve cover assy. Doesnt look like that is the case with the 86 models...

ANYBODY wish to add to this?

THE O2 SENDOR JUST SCREWS OFF THE SIDE OFF THE MANIFOLD, THEN YOU JUST UNPLUG IT. JOSE

It sounds like a problem with the remote, if you have one, stuck in the "open" position. Otherwise use an oil penetrant and work the latch manually until it returns to its normal position. Note: it could be stuck in the closed or shut position too, but less likely. Then you would need to try and get the latch itself open, even though the trunk lid is already open.

there are four screws on the coner of the cover just remove them and it comes offr

The engine computer is also the regulator.

You pour into the valve cover.

means u need to take it to Honda dealer, many things can be wrong nothing specific

Sounds like you need a speed sonsor

You need a Honda transmission fluid, and I am not being a wise guy

this is a rather huge deal, I have an 01 H6 and have the local mechanic do it because there is so much involved. you first need to remove the with the H6 logo on it. the one that sits on the top of the car and is for looks only. you then will have to remove heat shields and other hoses and wires that get in the way. with the H6 does no have spark plug wires or anything of that nature, the coils sit on top of the spark plugs. each plug has a coil and each coil has a wire and plug that clips to a harness. these will all need to be unclipped and the plugs removed. gap and install new plugs, and then go in reverse order with putting the coil packs on and so forth. if you can find a good mechanic it would better to let him do it as like I say this is project not for beginers. good luck

Israel and Palestine

(Study Island)

A: 100 feet

B: 200 feet

C: 350 feet

D: 450 feet

E: 500 feet

Correct Answer: C

on the passenger side

On the top end of the LOWER radiator hose. Under the air intake hose.

Go to:

http://www1.autozone.com/addVehicleId,2404901/initialAction,repairGuide/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003a240

Scroll down to your year, this is for a 2.3L.

This link starts at http://www1.autozone.com/home.htm

Then "Repair Info"

Enjoy,

Bryon

to replace the alternator there is 2 bolts.. one that lets you adjust the belt to take it off and tighten it and one at the bottom of the alternator and it come right off. Now the hard part is removing it from the engine compartment. I removed the brake booster to gain enough room to remove the alternator from the top. remove the 2 bolts holdind it on to the firewall and gently pull it back, there is a shaft with a spring attached to it on the inside of the booster along with a rubber O-ring, KEEP ALL THESE PARTS TOGETHER and DO NOT remove the shaft and spring from the booster housing!! JUST PUSH THE BOOSTER ASSEMBLY GENTLY TO THE SIDE ENSURING YOU DON"T BEND OR BREAK THE BRAKE LINES!! Once you removed the booster you can now remove the alternator through the top. To install just go in reverse order. Make sure and re-attach all the hoses and electrical wiring that you removed. Caution: DO NOT overighten the nuts on the brake booster when re-installing!!!!!

There is an easier way:

'89 Civic si 3dr: Alternator removal

Note: if it's been a while, best to use 6 point sockets / wrenches on all

A tiny drop of penistraining oil on fasteners where steel meets alum helps

But DO NOT soak em! - probably would be better to just leave em dry

Jack up & remove LF wheel

Disconnect + battery cable (10mm)

Depress pry tab & disconnect larger round multi connector

Remove (10mm nut under boot) alternator + cable

Loosen top alt adjust bolt (12mm?)

Loosen (14mm) nut from lower alt sleeve bolt (easier from below)

Push alt toward timing cover & remove belt

Remove lower (14) nut & upper (12) bolt loosened above

Tap sleeve bolt (w/wood or plastic) thru & remove (other end welded square flange)

Wiggle and/or gently pry alt off (place on frame behind oil filt for now)

Can remove upper bracket (14mm) to get outaa way

Remove lower sleeve mount bracket (2X14mm)

Remove 3 plastic (Phillips) snap nuts from crank splash shield in front of LF axle

Pull shield down & leave hanging (leave 4th snap nut underneath in)

Can now slide alternator along frame and remove past crank pulley thru wheel well

Reasm notes: A little auntie seize lube on all (non electric) threads will go a long way next time you go to loosen ( if you have a car this old you probably already know this).

Square flange on lower sleeve bolt is not perfectly square, (rotate 90 deg. if necessary).