Honda Accord LX

its a timing chain and as long as you dont have like over 200,000 miles its should be fine... its a timing chain and as long as you dont have like over 200,000 miles its should be fine...

There are a number of things that could be causing the P0420 catalyst efficiency code. The most common thing is the catalytic converter is no longer working. The other thing is the rear oxygen sensor is no longer working properly or there is a leak in the exhaust system.

a light is something that helps you see better at any time of the day. Is good for many things like reading at night on your bed, sitting in your school classroom and much much more!

Ans. fr: da12b

I'm not sure of when you posted this, but your alternator is gone. I had the same problem with my 1998 Honda Accord. I heard a load buzz like wine getting louder and louder, then it stopped and the instrument panel lit up like a Christmas Tree, like you car. Get it replaced as soon as possible. Your alternator provides power to your car when the engine is running. Your battery will die without it. Here's an analogy...take your home computer - represents your car and all electronics, the 120 volts power supply - the alternator, providing power to the "computer," and the backup battery is your car battery. If the 120 volts power goes out, you will be running on your backup battery "car battery," and if power is not restored, the back up battery will die, if the alternator is not replaced the battery will die. I hope this explain it so you can understand. If not, here is a site for you to look at. It is designed for car audio, but you will understand it. http://www.bcae1.com Good luck and get your alternator replaced ASAP. If you want more info…. Hit me back…canagano@hotmail.com

IT IS NORMALLY LOCATED UNDER YOUR DASH ON THE DRIVER SIDE IT IS ROUND WITH 3 PRONGS/NORMALLY

Could be a problem inside the steering column

Remove the battery, then you should be able to remove the "spin on" cover that holds the bulb in place

There is no need to remove the battery to change a headlight bulb. I have done this a few times already in my 98 Accord. All you need is a chubby Philips screw driver. There are three screws holding the headlight in securely. Loosten these (no need to remove completely) turn the exhisting headlight counter clockwise until you can see the plastic expansions are free from beneath the screws. Gently pull out and you can unclip the old light (a small flathead screwdriver used as a wedge works fine) and put in the new light. place the headlight back in and turn clockwise. (pay attention to the plactic expansions, make sure they are beneath the screws) Re-tighten the screws and you're done.

Begin by looking under the drivers side dash, you should be looking for a 1.5" x 2" black box. BTW - Is this an OEM or aftermarket cruise control?

Standing at front of car.. The plugs wiring on the engine is from right to left.. Far right being #1.. Far left being #4..

It will never be found on the internet- your best shot would be to call a dealer, and see if he can get you one. They are usually cheap for the older cars.

You can also visit a salvage yard and look for one in a wrecked Accord.

If you want the manual go here:

http://www.pauldesign.ru

Make sure to thank me later!

It is located in the engine compartment on the passenger side of the firewall just below the vacuum control box. It should be black with two lines running to it. (It looks like a mini oil filter)

It will be much easier to change if you remove the vacuum control box first so that you have easier access to the bolts for the fuel lines.

You will want to have a rag handy when you undue the fuel lines because the fuel is under pressure and a small amount is going to run out when you loosen the bolts.

CAUTION - I would let your engine and exhaust cool down before doing this due the the fire hazard associated with the fuel that is going to run out of the fuel lines.

Don't forget to install the NEW aluminum washers that will come with your new fuel filter.

Don't do that!It's a major mistake to do that!The airbag is a safety device.

The 2004 Honda Accord has a 2.4 L base engine size.

this guide is for replacing the clutch in a 1988 Honda accord dx. lx may vary.

also this is removing the tranny via the bottom not through the top.

first of course take out the battery of course. also dis connect the coil distributor wire. wont have an accidetal start then. raise it up so it is both front tires off the ground block the wheels and e brake and put it in reverse.

next take off the tires. then the rotors both sides at once if u can. have some one help u. calipers too. now it gets tricky and difficult. take off the hub nuts. way more difficult then it sounds . was for me. then u have to unbolt the arm coming to the axle or w/e its callled. [the rotor sits on that part] the take the pin out of the bolt on the very bottom. [name unsure] make sure not to lose anything! take the bolt from the fork out. and also the steering bar unscrew that without moving the bolt tooo much. just crack it, and the clamp on the boot take it off too and the the bar should move takes a 12mm wrench [small is better][remember its all metric and mostly 14mm 12mm 10mm and 17mm, more random sizes. not bad overall] now u need to take out both axles very difficult but its alright getting them in. get that brake line out of the way as well. [redo your brake after this, bleed adjust] and not u need to take out your starter.[two mounting bolts not the long skinny ones!!!!!!] now that u did that u can more easily reach the transmission/motor mounts. now loosen all of the bolts holding the transmission on and there is a few brackets u will need to take off. do not drop the tranny!!!!!! there is more to do first. there is ur clutch cable that needs to be taken off and ur speedometer cable as well clutch cable is on the front and speedometer is in the back. there is also 2 hoses that may be quiet difficult to take off. right next to the speedometer cable. leave one braket on the back of the tranny so u can tie a rope or something to it. now completely remove the tranmission u can now wiggle it off and lower it to the ground. its not heavy if u drained it. now u can move it off to the side and see your pressure plat clutch and part of your *FLYWHEEL. your ready to remove the pressure plate and clutch. check your tranny and clean out the inside of the bell housing. brake cleaner works great. have fun putting it back toegether....

hints:

flywheel spec for 1988 Honda accord is somthing like .615 check yours at autopart store. may need resurfaced it cost 35$ for me.

the clutch will not work when put all the way back toegether u need to lift the throw out bearing arm until it resists u and tighten your clutch cable accordingly.

u can now drive it. if u know anything about vaccums hit me up. my car wont idle now.

To replace the Head Gasket you will need: Head Gasket Water pump gasket Intake Gaskets Hi-temp RTV to seal the valley pan Torque wrench Gasket scraper This will be long but hang on!! Ensure that the engine is at TDC. This will make setting the timing much easier later on. Step one: Remove the plug wires, vaccuum lines, electrical wires, radiator hoses, heater hoses, throttle cable, trans kickdown cable (if equipped), water temp gauge, from the intake and carb. Also remove the valve covers BE SURE TO LABEL WHERE EVERYTHING GOES!!!!! Step two: Remove the header/manifold bolts, the gasket, and the bottom header/manifold bolts (those attaching the exhaust to the header/manifold), remove the plugs from the head (only to ensure you don't break them, and then move the header/manifolds out of the way as much as possible (no need to pull them out) Step Three: Remove the bolts that secure the intake to the heads, as well as the bolts that secure the water pump to the eninge (there are also two bolts that attach to the water pan) remove the water pump, and then the intake. (they are 7/16"), then double check to ensure all electrical connectors, throttle cable, vaccuum lines etc. are removed from the carb and intake. Then remove the intake, you may have to pry ever so slightly in order to get it loose. Step Four: You should now be able to remove the two bolts securing the valley pan (1/2" or 9/16" usually). you will have to carefully pry it loose, as the valley pan is probably sealed with RTV. NOTE: ENSURE THAT YOU DO NOT DROP ANYTHING DOWN INTO THE OIL PAN AFTER YOU REMOVE THE VALLEY PAN!!!! Step Five: Now loosen the nuts that hold the rocker arms down. These bolts only need to be loosend enough to allow you to remove the pushrods. Once all rocker arms are loosend then remove the pushrods, make sure that you remember the order in which they were removed. Step Six: Now you are ready to remove the head. Loosen and remove the bolts holding the head to the block, NOTE: the bolts vary in length, make sure that you remember where they go!. With all the bolts removed pry up on the corner of the head to remove it. When you remove the head, there will be antifreeze that will leak everywhere. also note the location of the two plastic keepers on the gasket Step Seven: Clean the heads. Use a gasket scraper to remove any of the old gasket. be careful not to gouge the head, just remove the gasket. Do the same for the engine block. Also clean up the mess left over from removing the head, to include removing all of the old gaket material Step Eight: Reassembly. With everything cleaned up, place the new gasket on the engine block, make sure that you insert the plastic keepers as well. Then set the head back on the engine, and reinsert the bolts. Follow the recommended steps to torque the head bolts. Reinsert the push rods, and tighten the rocker arm bolts to specs. Apply RTV to the valleypan, and allow it to become takcy before setting it back on the engine, and tightening the bolts. Next install the intake and gaskets, as well as the exhaust manifolds (beware the exhaust manifolds can be a pain to install). Reinstall the water pump as well. Tighten all bolts, reconnect the wires and vaccuum lines, and reinstall the valve covers. Step Nine: Setting the timing. The engine should already be at TDC. Reinstall the distributor and note the location of the rotor. The nearest point on the cap will be #1. From there install the rest of the plug wires and then the cap. Step Ten: Start the enigne, and look for leaks, be prepared to shut off the engine just in case. Finally adjust the timing, and idle speed, and you should be good to go!!!

try borrowing an OBDII scanner from your local autozone or advance auto(theyll usually test free of charge if they have a test unit) im not sure if the tranny codes can be retrieved using OBDII but if the scanner has the proper module installed with tranny codes it should pull them from the trans computer also

Yes, it should work perfectly.

they have the same 3.0L engine, but not sure if US build or Jp build has any different.

Hello, Yesterday i drove nicely to work but later in the day when i start my car there is no spark ?? i tested it in all possible ways but there way no spark jezzanyways, i did change to new spark plugs, plus i have new wires (4 months old) and same with distributor cap...and there no engine light tht shows up. now i m not sure if my car wont crank because of bad coil? ignition starter or distributor??if so, can u show me any diagram to change it.

my car is 1993 Honda civic coupe DX 1.5Lit. Please help any feedback is appreciated.

cheers____________

It all depends on the engine tunning, if you install a Turbo in a stock B16 or a D16 the engine cant take the Turbo out put, Thus stressing the engine and melting or burning your pistons. Proper engine tunning is needed! Like stronger crank shaft,forged pistons, strong connecting rods, high performance oil and gas pump, high octane gas,and performance cams, to name a few. Proper engine tunning and maintenance can increase the Turbo and engine lifespan.

Use a Mechanic

because someone probably turned the engine on

IF you have already set the timing to spec, you alter timing by loosening the distributor and turning the base to adjust timing. You will need a timing light to measure the timing. Pull out the spout before adjusting so the computer will not alter the timing. HTH.

Check the level of brake fluid in the master cylinder Make sure parking brake is fully released

This just isn't something that you want to do. Remove engine shroud, grill, bumper on the side that you're working on, inner fender fasteners - then you can get to the 4 bolts that hold the headlight assembly in. Did it yesterday - won't do it again. 5 hours :-(

If you asking this question , you have no reason being behind the wheel .