Honda Civic CX

185/65R14 Decoding the number provided above >>> 185 stands for tire width in mm. 65 stands for the aspect ratio of the tire. R stands for radials. 14 stands for the wheel diameter in inches.

Yes, it is the same type of set up that you would fine on any other commercial trailer (Airbags and shock absorbers)... It just harder to spot because these trailers are so low to the ground

Bad bulbs or brake light switch.

it should be under 18,ooo or any 3 year 12,000 lease .

They should be 6.5 inches. You don't need to cut the wires at all, I just got mine installed in 5 minutes with the adapter speaker plug, I got them from Amazon for 16 bucks but you save a lot of time and you don't mess the wire system of your car with the black tape and stuff.

Yes you can in the UK go us

It could be the fuse, a bad connection or the lighter itself. You'll need to find out which it is. First, start by checking for voltage at the back of the lighter. Use a volt meter or automotive test light to check for voltage at the wire as it enters the socket. If there is no voltage there, start tracking back to the next connector. Keep going until you find a place where there is voltage, then, with a little inductive logic, you'll know what to fix.

The spark plug gap for a 1994 Honda Civic should be set at .044 inches. This gap will be preset at the factory for new spark plugs.

i think it's pretty rare that it would be the horn, probably loose wire in the steering wheel. but the horn is located behind front bumper cover passenger side.

at the top of the lower rad hose (in housing)

do you mean is a Honda engine an interference engine? in which the valves will get bent by the pistons if the timing belt fails? then yes.

yes it will i have it in mine

On the back of the lamps there should be two screws attached to plastic gears. One is for lateral adjustment, the other, vertical. Beam the lights about ten or fifteen feet from a vertical wall and use a screw driver to start making adjustments. The driver side lamp might require you to unbolt some parts from their brackets (such as the power steering) in order to sling them out of the way to make room for getting your hands and tools in there.

A super-charger or turbo-charger system can be installed on the V-TEC or i-VTEC DOHC motors. There are several good companies that provide solutions for either application.

Bulb Fuse There may be separate for each side in power dist. box Bad ground

You don't. Such resources aren't made available to the general public without a valid reason for requesting such information.

my dick

behind the clutch pedal.

I have had experence with a 98 saturn, but I was told it is the same with a 94. You cannot remove the motor only. 1. Take off wiper arm assy both sides. 2.remove plastic covering to expose wiper motor, between windshield and fire wall, open the hood its alot easier. 3. there should be two bolts holding the wiper motor/arm assy. They are beside each wiper actuator. Remove them. 4. Now the top portion of the dash (dash Pad) snaps off. There may be two screws in the center holding it on. Remove all and take off top portion of dash. This is just a cover. 5. Pull back the air duct around the area where the wiper motor is and you will see two bolts. (***edit*** It's possible that you need to cut a piece of isolating material that is covering these two bolts. It's a lot easier if you actually completely remove the air duct : 2 small screws on each side next to the winshield and at the bottom, the base it is only clipped. On my 1995 I could not access the 2 bolts without removing the air duct ***edit***) Take them off and the whole assy comes off. 6. The motor comes off the assy really easy. If you got this far, trust me, you will figure out the rest. good luck

Expanded answer :

On my 1995, It was not possible to take out the assembly right after taking off the 2 bolts underneath the air duct. I had to separate the motor from the mechanism assy to be able to take the 2 pieces one after the other. the motor is fixed to the mechanism by 3 bolts positioned in a triangle around the rotor and one on the rotor itself.

Once you have removed the motor, it's worth to verify that that the mecanism isn't seized (jammed), in my case, the mecanism was completely jammed and most likely this is why the motor died in the first place. You can put somme effort on it to remove the rust and lubricate it correctly otherwise you may have to change the motor again in a couple of months. The mechanism is worth twice as the motor so you it's up to you to change it as well or not. --Nien

Added.. These instructions apply perfectly to a 98 SL2. The only thing to note is that I was not able to get the air duct totally out without flexing it more than I wanted to ( it was COLD) but I removed the 2 screws, reached down and unclipped the 2 clips on the bottom and then I was able to lift it up then slide it to the right. Now there was plenty of room. Behind the duct there was a small piece of inulation covering those nuts, I pushed it aside, went in with a 10mm deep socket and short extension, and in 3 minutes I had the wiper motor out..after 2 hours of head scratching trying to get those bolts out from the engine side of the firewall :-) I had already removed the three screws holding the wiper motor to the mechanism so I can't say if it would come out intact but either way, that's not a problem, the secret is those 2 hidden nuts.

Follow up ..... I was NOT able to put the bracket assy with the motor AND the arm installed back into the car, there was no position I could find that allowed the whole thing to fit. I took only the arm off the motor ( 1 nut), ( leaving the motor secured with the 3 screws) and then it was simple to install the whole assy, tighten it into place, then put the arm and it's retaining nut back on. Just make sure you mark the shaft so you can put the arm back in the right place.

Many thanks to those posting, this was a great help.

Another Followup..........Another thanks to posters for making the uninstall easier. After removing the assembly in one piece which was not easy as the mechanism was stuck in the 1/4 position. I had to use a screw driver and force the arm to turn far enough to remove.After removal I noticed that the motor was slightly loose. Further examination revealed that the retainer bolts holding the assembly to the motor were backed out far enough so that they caught the radial arm and would allow no farther movement. Ater tightning the bolts I replaced the electric plug and turned it on just laid out on the cars motor. It worked! Afew loose bolts caused the whole thing.

The best type of UV protection glass that is used for automobiles is called the laminated glass. It is made of 2 layers of glass and 1 plastic layer in the middle. It is able to filter out 95-99% of UV A and B rays. But It is usually only used in the front car window.

Non-laminated glass is used for side and rear windows. They do filter most of UVB; however they allow up to 60-70% UVA to pass through.

Tinting the non-laminated glass may further reduce 15-30% of UVA. You can do that with your non-laminated glass in local auto shop but just have to make sure it allow at least 70% minimum visible light transmittance through the windshield.

some say that its your heat shield, i tried that but then it did nothing. so i messed around with my exhause system and i had to tie my catilatic converter up with hanger and a jack to hold up the pipe while you tie the hanger on. Its about 200.00 to fix or a simple hanger with a car jack

I have a '00 Civic Si (coupe) and its tank is 11.9 gallons. Given that the base construction of all sixth generation Civic coupes is the same, then the tank is probably the same capacity on a '96 model.

Was looking at dropping an Acura Integra engine in ours, check out www.hondaswap.net for info on engine swaps

you have to take the 4 bolts off on the other side of the brake drum.then it should come off.

You don't need to cut the wires at all, I just got mine installed in 5 minutes with the adapter speaker plug, you can get them from Amazon or eBay for 16 bucks. You save a lot of time and you don't mess up the wire system of your car with the black tape and stuff.