Honda Civic DX

its prolly the egr valve that's why mine did it expect to pay around $320 for it that's how much it cost me including labor

Also check the distributor cap for very small cracks, use bright flashlight. After I replaced my EGR valve I still had the problem until I found some hairline cracks in the cap.

Also, Check the IAC operation. (I had the same problem with the hesitation during acceleration. It was really bad with the A/C on... I took the intake off and sprayed some Card Cleaner into the IAC and cleaned off the throttle plate with a wire brush worked fine until it clogs up again..)

Thanks. I had thought about the EGR but it turned out to be hairline cracks in the distributor cap. Simple replacement of the cap and the car runs great.

Clogged injectors, if it is a fuel related problem.

determine if its caurberated or injected and either way,check fuel pressure from pump.

If fuel pressure is o.k. check the fuel pump relay.

If relay is o.k. check the distributor igniter .

If your fuel pressure is not o.k. replace fuel pump.

Without knowing the year, type/size of carb or bike I'll try and simplify this as much as I can. Usually the more details the better.
Carbureation is simple. It's just the mixing of air and fuel to make an explosive mixture. It's all the variables thrown in that makes things complex.
A basic carburetor (herein shortened to carb.) has 5 parts that can be adjusted; float bowl level, main jet, pilot jet, needle, airscrew. The float bowl level is adjusted by bending the tab on the float arms. The objective here is to raise or lower the fuel level in the bowl. This in turn regulates the amount of fuel entering the air stream. The size of the main jet also regulates the amount of fuel that enters the airstream when the throttle is open. Otherwise the needle blocks the hole in the main jet. The needle also affects the fuel flow. The taper on the needle determines at what point of the throttle opening the fuel begins to flow and how much fuel enters the airstream. The more radical the taper, the faster the fuel/air ratio increases. Also raise the needle in the slide, by putting the C-clip closer to the pointed end, and the fuel/air ratio begins to change sooner. This provides more of a hit when the throttle is opened. The fuel/air mix at idle is determined by the pilot jet and the airscrew. The slide also regulates the rate of airflow within the carb. Other factors that influence carbureation are how well the air filter is maintained, how well the airbox breathes and the type of reeds used on the intake port. Also since an engine uses the seal on the rings to provide suction to draw in air, a properly working top end also has an influence.
Is your brain sore yet ?
Why do you want to change the air/fuel ratio?
Is the bike stuttering sputtering, stalling down on pwer, carboning up, burning excessive oil....or.....????? Let me know maybe we can solve the problem with more info. OK?

3 and 3/4 if filter is changed too

1996- 2000 civic the same body model.

You need to line up you belt with the pulley except for the tensioner pulley according to the picture in your engine bay. You will need to put a wrench on your tensioner pulley and twist it to relieve the tension then slip the belt on and let off the wrench to return the tension.

If a Honda Civic is over revving than there may be a problem with the ECU. One of the functions of the ECU is to prevent the engine from over revving.

There should be a plug adapter spot right under the steering wheel and dash assembly, should just plug right in... i have a 96 and i work at O'Reillys auto parts, we have a code reader that reads all nissans from 88 to current....so if is the right code reader it should just install as i said above hope that helps a little

is it 4 wheel drive or 5 wheel drive?

Yes you can i got one for $108 because i have a glasspack on my 1994 ford ranger 4 cylinder truck.

You can go to this site http://ccs.exl.info/carwires.html You got all brand of vehicules and all the years... It was accurate for my 1989 Honda Civic SI. Have a nice day!!! JMoney69

It varies with what part of the country you live in. Call a couple of local garages for estimates.

The computer box is located behind the removable plastic panel on the passenger side.
This is if you are setting in the passenger seat, it would be to the right side of where your right ankle would be.

2 degrees BTDC

Overheating the engine - usually by running low on water or a waterleak causing same thing.

It will be the cv joint, it will need replacing

Silicone is not water soluable, so there will be very little that will be washed off of tires in the rain. The amount that might go from the tire to the road surface is so microscopically minute, especially across something as great an area as a road surface, that there will be no effect on other vehicles on the road, especially when you consider that a road surface is very pourous. Of far, far greater concern is all the other fine lubricants found in an automobile like engine oil, transmission fluid, power steering fluid, and so forth, that manage to find their way out of cars, onto the road surface. These fluids are the worst at city intersections, where cars stop, and stuff leaks out while they sit there. Then, when it rains, the surface becomes like ice, and can potentially cause an accident.

It is under the dash to the left of the clutch pedal looking up, a little dark brown box with a black box around it. It is under the dash to the left of the clutch pedal looking up, a little dark brown box with a black box around it.

READ ALL OF THIS FIRST! it's not hard if you have the right tools. Get the spark-plugs from an auto store. You will need to tell the store the model of the car, the Year and the number of cylinders along with the engine size.(i.e. 2.0 L) Example: I need a spark-plugs for a 1988 Honda hatchback, 2 door, it's a 4 cylinder 2.0 leader engine. (I usually got "NGK brand" if I had a choice) Note: Make sure the engine is COLD. To remove a spark-plug wire you just pull up on it. It has a round clip on the end of the wire, grab it firmly and pull up. it will pup off. Remove the first plug wire from the spark-plug NOT from the distributor cap. ( do not remove all the plug wires at once they have a specific order that must be used) Use a spark-plug wrench to remove one if the plugs on the end of the engine. compare it to one of the new plugs make sure it has the same size and thread. It should be the same. Set, or check the gap on the end of the electrode to the recommended gap. ( You will need a gap tool ). You could ask the store to tell you the correct gap when you are there. Maybe they will even show you how to set it. Put in the new spark-plug by finger to get it started, tighten it until it is firm. DO NOT muscle it down so tight that you strip the threads in the engine. Just tight. put the spark-plug wire back on. (Just push it on) You are done with the first spark-plug now do the next spark-plug. Remember pull one wire and one plug at a time and you won't get them all mixed up. Do this to all four spark-plugs.

D15b, D16

You can fit 7.5x17" wheels on a 1997 Honda Civic.

See the specs below:

Rim size:7.5x17"

PCD:4x100

Offset:37-45

Tyre size:205/40R17

1996-2000 civic lx and HX models, the LX is non v-tec and the HX is v-tec

i got the perfect answer for your question lol....take it to a shop :) better safe then sorry

reach your hand through the bumper and pull the cable

In the main fusebox under the Steering wheel... It's a 7 pin relay bolted in with a little bracket up above the other fuses. Prick of a thing to get to though...