Honda Passport LX

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Take it to an independent garage. On some cars it is fairly simple to remove the lock cylinder and replace it (the ignition tumbler & keys for my 1989 cavalier was only $25; unfortunately, it is a long task to get it apart). If it is the ignition swith, same applies, on some cars it is quite simple. I found that the best advice I gto was from an auto wreckers (they know how to dismantle a variety of vehicles)

The first and easiest answer is to remove the wheel covers and listen again for the clicking noise. It could be a pebble loose inside a wheel cover or a tire valve stem clicking against the wheel cover.

If it's not that easy, and your truck has CV joints, I would suspect a bad CV joint. Look for a torn CV boot.

Bad ground? or a loose connection.

I can help in the removal of the rotors on a 93 explorer. I changed mine before and just recently sold my explorer. Are the hubs automatic or manual locking? You might need a tool for both automatic and manual locking hubs. I had automatic hubs I just had to push a button for 4 wheel drive. The tool is a 2-3/8 inch hex lock nut wrench. It looks like a socket but really big. If you need pictures get a manual from an autoparts store. Hanes is the one I had it covered a bunch of years of explorers. Automatic: remove tire and caliper make a mark on the locking hub cover and the wheel hub to align it later pry the retaining rings off the hub cover then slide the cover off using snap ring pliers or a flathead screwdriver pry up the snap ring off of the spindle. It's a c shaped piece of metal that snaps on the spindle in a little groove. You might have to remove some grease to see it. remove the metal axleshaft spacer next. It has teeth on the inside that line up with the grooves on the spindle then pull off a plastic cam from the wheelbearing nut. it has a spring going around it in a groove. it's on pretty tight but it should slide right off with a little rocking backa and forth. Putting it back on is the tough part it can be tricky because the spring forces 3 metal bars down and when you put it back on another set of hands might help. after the cam there are 2 plastic spacers remove them now you need a small magnet to remove the locking key. it's in a little groove inside the locking nut close to the spindle. Place the magnet in front of the hole and the key should pop out onto the magnet Once the magnet is removed you need the Lock nut wrench and a breaker bar or socket to remove the wheel bearing nut if you can't remove it by hand. It should be tightened to 35 footpounds of torque with a torque wrench and then back it off a 1/4 turn then tightened to 16 ft-lbs when putting it back on. Then you have to play with getting the key back in place. Don't tighten it too much or too little it's gotta be somewhere in the middle. I just tightened it up and then had to play with moving the nut so keyhole would line up on the spindle. Once the nut is off the outer wheel bearing will be exposed and the rotor will just pull off. You can check the wheel bearings for wear at this point. If you are getting the rotors cut you might as well remove the inner wheel bearing and wipe all the grease off cuz the dust will get everywhere. Clean the wheel bearings off and make sure you label which was the inner one and outer one. If you replace the wheel bearings you will have to replace the races inside the rotor. If the wheel bearings are good just clean them up repack them and do everything in the reverse.

If it is a 4 cylinder, it's underneathe the radio. If it's a V6, it's in the engine compartment behind the air filter housing.

The thermostat is located at the BACK end (engine end) of the LOWER radiator hose. You'll have to do a little bit of digging to get there, but it's not bad and can be done with normal tools. If you're careful, you can do it in an hour. Previous Answer:You'll find the thermostat behind the valve cover almost all the way to the left. It will be just underneath the distributor. You will need to disconnect the main upper radiator hose, two electrical plugs and three mounting bolts. This will remove the cover. The thermostat is approx 2" wide and circular. When installing the new one, be sure to have a proper gasket (my new one didn't come with one) and set the temp pin at the top when re-installing. (The little loose piece of metal) You may have to move a few things around to get to the case. The big hose to my air filter was a real pain, but I was able to disconnect it from the filter house and just push it out of the way. There may also be some wiring you'll need to shift around for access. All you'll need is a standard ratchet with a 10mm head and a 3" extender, and a pair of plyers to pinch the hose lock. When you're done, put everything back where it was. Careful not to overtighten the bolts, they WILL snap. If possible, the ideal solution would be to use a torque wrench and use the specifications found in the repair manual. But if you're careful about overtightening, you should be okay.

CHECK THE EXHAUST.MINE WAS HITTING THE BODY AT BOTTOM OF REAR FENDER

Should be the "peel off" type

Remove wheel

Remove caliper mounting bolts

Slide caliper off rotor

Rotor should slid off hub

If it sort of chugs and dies and wont start for a while. My 2000 was the Mass air sensor. its right next inline from the Air filter housing. Round metal cylinder with black retangle sensor on side. Plug her in to the computer at autozone see if they agree.

Check for disconnected or broken linkage or a bad wiper transmission

Leo4613-- I normally work on a cab fleet,boss and his wife are selling her passport,tranny was slipping. as I stated below,neather auto or manual trans on passport have trans dipstick. so here is what I figrued out to do and it works. OK? the car WILL need to be level,go underneath,look at the tranny pan.there are 2 plug bolts.remove the high 1,place a pan underneath the opening. now, go up to the engine compartmet,locate the tranny breather\fill tube,it will come up next to the oil dipstick,run along the firewall ending under the wiper motor. I disconnected it at the point under the wiper motor so I could attach a small funnel( shop made.lol) to add fluid. add fuid 1/4 of a quart at a time(may be helpful if you have someone helping you,I rigged my fill funnel to hang from the hood.). stop when fliud starts coming out of opened plug hole. reinstall plug bolt, start car,let idle,the step on brake and run trans through gears(R-N-D-N-R-P).stop car,refill as tranny cooler may have been low also.while under car check for leaks! I found a pinhole in the tranny cooler line,was a rubber 1 so R&R the line. I did take pictures,outlined hoses and bolts to help anyone out. email request to: lenny4613.com good luck all!

I know that the 1998 Honda passport does NOT have a dip stick to check the transmission fluid level. The manual indicates that the level should be checked by the dealer. I have never been able to determine how a dealer performs this check.

The Isuzu Rodeo & Amigo Honda Passport (89-02) manual published by Haynes states the following.Checking the transmission fliud for a 96 and newer requires the use of a special fliud temperature guage which can be ordered from the Honda dealers parts department.

First run the engine at idle speed for at least 3 minutes. Then open the transmission overfill screw with engine running. Place the guage in the over glow until it reached between 90 degrees and 135 degrees F. Then using a syringe or small pump add fluid until it runs out. Replace and Tighten plug to specified torque of 28.

Locate the dipstick, and whilst the vehicle is running, pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, re-insert it, pull it again, and check the fluid level on the stick.

- NO.....there are no tranny dipsticks on these auto transmissions.

Neather the auto or manual trans have a dipstick for checking ATF levels. there are supposed to be "check ports " on the trans. remove the bolt and check level by feel with a finger . however. I would apprecate if anyone has a manual would post where the supposed fill plug is.

The supposed check ports are on the side of the tran, as these cars were built from leftovers of other production cars, space is VERY tight!Like the temp gauge, is probably a special order tool that costs a arm and leg to buy and use once in a great while.

this could be the cause of low brake fluid or that your foot is on the brake and it is indicating that the ABS is working.

check and see if yourgetting fire on the wires or make sure your coil is pluged up

Hi. I own a 96 Passport, according to the Hayes repair manual I have it says the transmissions from 1996--> & up use a "sealed transmission" & not to attempt to add fluid unless you have the proper tools, to-wit a special thermometer & you must preheat the tranny fluid to between 90-to-130 degrees and then using a syringe add fliud through he overfill screw hole on the pan until it starts to run out.. Good Luck...

The oil pan is underneath the motor on a Honda Passport. You can take the car to a mechanic to have the oil pan changed.

The manufacturers recommended spark plug gap is .044"

The control module is under the vehicle in the rear. when sliding under the vehicle from the back the control module is the medium size black box. It should be the first thing you could see. If your spare is stored underneath you will need to take it off.

on top of the trans where the shifter conects if auto. if stick under the dash on the cluch pedel

I have a 170K miles on my passport

You need a OBD scan tool to clear any codes on this car.