Jeep Cherokee Laredo

Large vapor leak in the evaporative emissions system

You could have a gasoline vapor leak anywhere from the gas cap to the tank to the engine.

The best way to assess the condition of rotors and brakes is to have it done by a knowledgeable professional. These boys and girls have special training that allows them to evaluate the state of your brakes. You can generally get a free "look see" at many auto shops, and by calling around, you can find a friendly crew that will help you. Brakes are pretty important. If you car runs rough, that's one thing. But if it doesn't stop when you need it too, you (and others) could be in serious trouble.

Certainly the shop you contact would like to work on your car, and the possibility of getting your business motivates them. But most shops are fairly honest and will be straight up with you. (The "bad press" and nasty "write ups" from angry, dissatisfied customers is something they generally want to avoid. Let alone litigation.) Contact the Better Business Bureau in your area to see if any complaints have been filed with a shop you are considering. Also, why not ask around among family or friends that live locally to see if they have any recommendations? That's a good idea, too.

Answer Answer there is a bezel piece going around the headlight. you must remove this bezel (sometimes you have to remove the turn signal light as well) and you will see a metal ring that holds the light in place. be careful as there are two sets of screws...one set adjusts the light and the other removes the ring. drop the ring down and remove the light. installation is the opposite of removal. hope this is right...that's how it's done on a '94. Answer On my 95 GC you just grab the headlight lens housing and pull it out. It has two plastic pieces that snap onto two studs that hold lens housing into place. Once you get it out you unscrew a plastic nut and twist and remove the headlight bulb. Then reverse the process to put it back. Answer I have a 96 Jeep...You just unplug the wire to the back of the headlight. Grab the headlight and pull. There are three snaps two on the bottom and one on the top. I used a little grease on the new snaps. Clean socket and push head light back into place making sure all three snap into place. It took me 15 minutes to complete the drivers side. You have to take the Battery out to get the other wire off the head light on the passanger side. I did not have to use any wrenches to complete this job. Al Sautner Answer Ok, My wife has a 95 GC that used to be my Dads. Driver Side: Unplug the wire from the back of the bulb. Locate the light colored ring that is around the bulb base (aprox 2.5" dia.) Rotate that ring until you can pull it off to the rear. Wiggle/rotate the base of the bulb and it will work its way out of the back of the headlight housing. Reverse process to install new bulb. Same procedure for Pass side, but start by removing the battery (I have heard you have to leave them disconnected for 10-15 minutes for the computer to fully reset before you reattach it) Just did this 10 minutes ago fyi :) .................... All of the answers above are Correct for 94-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Some have the bezel, others do not. Honestly you do not have to unscrew those shafts, it is a snap-on ball on the end of the screw adjustment shaft that connects to the plastic retainer on the Light Housing, 2 or 3 connectors depending on the model. Try not to break the housing, but it will come off with a strong tug or pry with a bar, first one side then the other. If you are just chamging the bulb then the above is also correct about untwisting the ring collar and removing the bulb, from the rear, (inside the engine compartment); remember to reinstall the ring onto the bulb and to not touch the glass bulb.

Regular 87 octane

the neutral safty switch is located in the trans range switch if you have an aw4 auto trans replace or clean and reinstall the switch

buy a new one from where you bought it from

before you spend too much money..check the solder and.try this.

On the inside of the keyless remotes, there are rubber buttons, those rubbers buttons are brushed with metal of some sort so that it reacts with the motherboard, when the remotes get older this metal wears off...so try this, it worked for me...

I superglued foil paper to the back of the button (the parts that touches the motherboard when pressed) and replaced the batteries... it worked like a charm, I used an awl and a hammer to make perfectly round piece of foil and just glued it onto the back of the button... i'd try this first before spending any real money

10w30

The Oxygen Sensor on a 1989 Cherokee 4.0L is on the exhaust pipe on the left side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold. You can see it from above but you must replace it from below. It is pretty easy to reach. I recently changed mine and it took only 10 minutes using an O2 sensor wrench.

"I had the same probelm with my 92' Voyager, the only thing I could do was to strip the cable's casing until you see the release cable itself, then grip it with a pair of vise grips and pull it. It should release it then. If not look under the front bumper and take a long screwdriver and see if you can push on the release latch to open the hood."

Or, you can remove the grille for easier access to the latch by removing the four torx head screws which hold the grille in place. If that works, and you can release the latch, make sure that the end of the cable is properly seated in the latch, and, take care in the future that you don't allow slack in the cable or it will pop out again. This is usually what happens when your release lever breaks inside the car. It creates enough slack in the cable to make it jump out at the other end where it seats in the hood latch. I now have a pair of locking pliers (vice-grips) hooked to my release cable inside the car and it works fine. I cut away the plastic shroud and removed the old lever bracket to make room. I also had to reinstall a small rubber grommet where the cable goes from the passenger compartment to the engine through the metal fire-wall. This is important as it prevents dangerous fumes from entering the passenger compartment.

Short in the wiring. If you have a trailer wiring harness check it for frayed wires. The tailight circuit and the dash lights share a circuit on many vehicles. I hope this helps you. Mark

Trouble code P0155 means:O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction

(Bank 2 Sensor 1)

In my case it was the ignition switch. They overheat and carbonize the connectors so that eventually the switch "burns" out and can even lock up and never works again, as it did in my case I don't have an answer for this problem, but I am experiencing this very same problem to the letter. I will add some troubleshooting steps which have not helped, so that noone makes the same mistakeS: * Replaced four relays under the hood ($41) * Replaced starter relay ($54) * Replaced turn signal module ($2) * Replace emergency flasher module ($6) Other troubleshooting discoveries: * Power coming from the engine side the wiring seems to be alright * For every item listed in the original question above, the fuse box was dead (no power) when probed with a test light and the ignition was on. The ACC fuse contact was also dead. * All of the other fuse sockets of the unaffected systems were hot (had power going to them) NOTE: A portion of the fuse box seems to not have power, due to either a bad hot lead, or a bad ground. Which ever is the case, it appears that section of the fuse box is on a totally different electrical circuit from the working side of the fuse box. My next step is to find a good wiring diagram, pull the fuse box, and start tracing bad connections, burnt wires, and anything else I can find. If this helps anyone to track down the problem...PLEASE...Share! Thanks. :o) Have your battery tested - it is most likely a battery-related problem even though it has enough charge to start. I had the same problem; replaced the battery and all is well. Have you checked the fusable links?? - Look where your posative cable goes to. The first stop is a junction block that has many smaller wires coming from it. Each of these wires are for your sub-system voltage feeds. They protect the circuits at the point where they connect to the junction block, it act the same as a fuse, but it is designed to handle much higher currents than a fuse. You can buy the appropriate load fusable link to replace the one that has gone bad, just splice it back into the harness and all will be well again.

It Is In The Gas Tank

Your engine will overheat, rapidly if they have 'popped out' (on any vehicle, incidentally) because all the anti-freeze will leak out.

2000

My 95 blazer has a leak that normally shows up after a heavy rain. It is caused by water running down the windshield into the air duct outside the vehicle. The water runs down the passenger side of the duct where the fresh air vent is located. If the fresh air vent is stuck open and a heavy rain comes, I'm given a puddle of water in the passenger side floor mat.

Normally 6 quarts in the 4.0L. Put in 5, run the engine, shut it off and check the level to be sure.

the fuel rail is held on by four bolts and i believe they are 9/16 on mine. the rail should just come up with a little force and the fuel injectors come out of the rail. at least that how my 88 is.

first check for juice. it sounds like your not getting power to the coil. check with a test light. if your not getting power work back to the source proboly a fuse of some sort in the engine compartment

About 30 minutes. The fuel pump on the Cherokee is on the front side of the tank, instead of on the top like most cars, thus allowing you to remove it without lowering the gas tank! There is a locking ring that holds it all in and can be removed by using a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to carefully tap the ring counter clockwise till it comes off. Then just pull out the pump, and replace. Be careful not to bend the float installing the new one or your gauge won't read right.

6 quarts

doesen't have one. Have to do everything from the over flow.

Gunite can last for decades with good soil conditions. Plaster is the part that needs to be redone periodically, but maintaining proper chemistry will allow your plaster to last much longer.

THIS WAS MY QUESTION, BECAUSE THE 3RD BRAKE LIGHT WAS BLINKING I THOUGHT THERE WAS A MAJOR PR0BLEM,TURNS OUT IT WAS THAT BOTH BULBS WERE BAD,CHANGED THEM AND EVERYTHING WAS FINE