Jeep Cherokee Laredo

No

all terrain factory size for best performance and smother ride

Yes, but may be cost prohibitive versus new or used from salvage yard. Take vehicle to a Radiator Repair shop. Not too many left. They should be able to repair cracks/holes. Explore finding one from a salvage yard. There are many reputable salvage suppliers listed on the internet if you do not have one near your community. Check the aftermarket supply from your local auto parts supplier. Aftermarket products are many times very cost competitive and good quality. no

Jeep : 1-5-3-6-2-4

Your engine will seize and you'll have to buy a new car

The catalog number will change depending on where you buy it. The fastest way to determine this will be to call the place where you purchase parts.

kick it

On the passengers side of the trans about even with the front of the door fan shaped switch held on by two bolts.

I suggest taking it apart and cleaning it before you think about replacing.

The switch is nearly $300

To remove, flatten out the retaining washer side, remove large nut, remove smaller ( 14mm ) bolt on the adjustment side.

cleaning is easy, 6 screws in back, pull apart, clean out all that old grease, pay special attention to the two contacts on the sweeper arm, they should move in and out easily as they have springs underneath and are the man contacts, apply new di-electric grease and reassemble.

reassemble and align before tightening, easiest way is to put trans selector in R and move switch until reverse lights come on.

rattletrap

I put them on my 95 JGC 4x4 stock but they will rub when you turn. I put 2" spring spacers on mine and that took care of the problem.

Throttle position sensor is located on the side of the throttle body-in line with the throttle shaft. To locate the throttle body, you can have someone repeatedly push the accellerator pedal (with the engine not running) while you look for the moving throttle shaft. Drew

Your flasher relay should be located behind the steering column cover to the left center side (below the headlight switch.

That jeep could have either a Dana 35 in the rear or a Chrysler 8.25. The best way to tell the difference is if the U bolts are 3 inches wide than it is an 8.25, if there smaller than it's a Dana 35. Most have the Dana 35C with C-Clip. Some do use the Chrysler 8.25 design. Look on the rear differential housing (the "Pumpkin"), and there should be some markings. If it's a Dana, you should see "35C" printed on either side of the pumpkin.

em what is a 1995 Laredo anyway

Sounds like you may have to replace your heater core, they are located under the dash. If yours has a small leak (starting to go bad) you will have to replace it or you will end up with a major leak and no ac/heat and will fry your engine. Check with your mechanic on this one. Maybe.... but if it is just condensation you can locate the drain tube on ther passenger side firewall and stick a piece of wire up it until the water runs out. Most of the time dust and leaves will block the drain and cause the water to leak out onto the floor.

Large vapor leak in the evaporative emissions system

You could have a gasoline vapor leak anywhere from the gas cap to the tank to the engine.

The best way to assess the condition of rotors and brakes is to have it done by a knowledgeable professional. These boys and girls have special training that allows them to evaluate the state of your brakes. You can generally get a free "look see" at many auto shops, and by calling around, you can find a friendly crew that will help you. Brakes are pretty important. If you car runs rough, that's one thing. But if it doesn't stop when you need it too, you (and others) could be in serious trouble.

Certainly the shop you contact would like to work on your car, and the possibility of getting your business motivates them. But most shops are fairly honest and will be straight up with you. (The "bad press" and nasty "write ups" from angry, dissatisfied customers is something they generally want to avoid. Let alone litigation.) Contact the Better Business Bureau in your area to see if any complaints have been filed with a shop you are considering. Also, why not ask around among family or friends that live locally to see if they have any recommendations? That's a good idea, too.

Answer Answer there is a bezel piece going around the headlight. you must remove this bezel (sometimes you have to remove the turn signal light as well) and you will see a metal ring that holds the light in place. be careful as there are two sets of screws...one set adjusts the light and the other removes the ring. drop the ring down and remove the light. installation is the opposite of removal. hope this is right...that's how it's done on a '94. Answer On my 95 GC you just grab the headlight lens housing and pull it out. It has two plastic pieces that snap onto two studs that hold lens housing into place. Once you get it out you unscrew a plastic nut and twist and remove the headlight bulb. Then reverse the process to put it back. Answer I have a 96 Jeep...You just unplug the wire to the back of the headlight. Grab the headlight and pull. There are three snaps two on the bottom and one on the top. I used a little grease on the new snaps. Clean socket and push head light back into place making sure all three snap into place. It took me 15 minutes to complete the drivers side. You have to take the Battery out to get the other wire off the head light on the passanger side. I did not have to use any wrenches to complete this job. Al Sautner Answer Ok, My wife has a 95 GC that used to be my Dads. Driver Side: Unplug the wire from the back of the bulb. Locate the light colored ring that is around the bulb base (aprox 2.5" dia.) Rotate that ring until you can pull it off to the rear. Wiggle/rotate the base of the bulb and it will work its way out of the back of the headlight housing. Reverse process to install new bulb. Same procedure for Pass side, but start by removing the battery (I have heard you have to leave them disconnected for 10-15 minutes for the computer to fully reset before you reattach it) Just did this 10 minutes ago fyi :) .................... All of the answers above are Correct for 94-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee, Some have the bezel, others do not. Honestly you do not have to unscrew those shafts, it is a snap-on ball on the end of the screw adjustment shaft that connects to the plastic retainer on the Light Housing, 2 or 3 connectors depending on the model. Try not to break the housing, but it will come off with a strong tug or pry with a bar, first one side then the other. If you are just chamging the bulb then the above is also correct about untwisting the ring collar and removing the bulb, from the rear, (inside the engine compartment); remember to reinstall the ring onto the bulb and to not touch the glass bulb.

Regular 87 octane

the neutral safty switch is located in the trans range switch if you have an aw4 auto trans replace or clean and reinstall the switch

buy a new one from where you bought it from

before you spend too much money..check the solder and.try this.

On the inside of the keyless remotes, there are rubber buttons, those rubbers buttons are brushed with metal of some sort so that it reacts with the motherboard, when the remotes get older this metal wears off...so try this, it worked for me...

I superglued foil paper to the back of the button (the parts that touches the motherboard when pressed) and replaced the batteries... it worked like a charm, I used an awl and a hammer to make perfectly round piece of foil and just glued it onto the back of the button... i'd try this first before spending any real money

10w30

The Oxygen Sensor on a 1989 Cherokee 4.0L is on the exhaust pipe on the left side of the engine just below the exhaust manifold. You can see it from above but you must replace it from below. It is pretty easy to reach. I recently changed mine and it took only 10 minutes using an O2 sensor wrench.

"I had the same probelm with my 92' Voyager, the only thing I could do was to strip the cable's casing until you see the release cable itself, then grip it with a pair of vise grips and pull it. It should release it then. If not look under the front bumper and take a long screwdriver and see if you can push on the release latch to open the hood."

Or, you can remove the grille for easier access to the latch by removing the four torx head screws which hold the grille in place. If that works, and you can release the latch, make sure that the end of the cable is properly seated in the latch, and, take care in the future that you don't allow slack in the cable or it will pop out again. This is usually what happens when your release lever breaks inside the car. It creates enough slack in the cable to make it jump out at the other end where it seats in the hood latch. I now have a pair of locking pliers (vice-grips) hooked to my release cable inside the car and it works fine. I cut away the plastic shroud and removed the old lever bracket to make room. I also had to reinstall a small rubber grommet where the cable goes from the passenger compartment to the engine through the metal fire-wall. This is important as it prevents dangerous fumes from entering the passenger compartment.

Short in the wiring. If you have a trailer wiring harness check it for frayed wires. The tailight circuit and the dash lights share a circuit on many vehicles. I hope this helps you. Mark