Jeep Cherokee Laredo

The YJ was made 1987 to 1995 and has the square head lights. The TJ was made starting in 1997 (there was no 1996 Wrangler because the 1997 model came out early). The TJs have the round head lights again like the older CJ Jeeps. They were replaced by the now current model that has the round head lights also but has the grill sloped back & the other major redesigns (like the 4 door option).

How do I replace water pump on 2004 jeep grand Cherokee

jack up truck remove wheel from whatever side noise is heard and caliper and rotor or drum then remove diff cover caution oil will drain out. with trans. in "N" turn driveshaft until you see an 8mm. bolthead it will be pointing toward the r/r wheel remove it and then the center pin which connects the spider gear will slide out . then go to the axle [where noise is heard] push it inward it will only go 10 to 12 mm go back to inside diff and on the end of the axle there will be a horseshoe clip remove it then pull out axle once axle is out DO NOT TURN DIVESHAT!!!!! spider gear can fall out which are sometimes very difficult to reinstall check axle for damage where bearing rides on will show grooves or pitting should be replaced if damaged remove axle seal cannot be reused,you will need a slide hammer with a head that when you push it through old bearing [still in axle housing] it will pivot and catch the inside edge of bearing then hammer it out it not take that much effort to get it out. once out use old bearing to start driving in new bearing then finish off with a punch to seat bearing [DO NOT HAMMER THE CRAP OUT IT] fill axle seal with grease then tap in flush with end of houseing

I just had the same readings on my Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. I was told that the injector circuit cylinders are open ex. p0202 would be cylinder 2. But I was also told these may be false codes due to the tps sensor. Did you also get a p0121?

Yes. If the timing is off all kinds of bad things could happen. Have a mech. check it. As well as get your Jeep check with a ODB computer.

What year Cherokee? XJ or Grand? Engine?

If you have overheating issues I would look to the cooling system first especially if you have an early XJ with the closed cooling system. (Pressure bottle on the firewall & NO radiator cap on radiator.) These early systems are sensitive to ANY leak in the system and will boil out coolant if there is a cracked bottle, leaking cap etc. Also, those systems are now 20+ years old & likely ready for a new radiator. Just be prepared to examine the system front to back if you have a RENIX XJ that has not been converted to a newer system or had the early system rebuilt. (Early system is fine so long as you maintain it. Aftermarket replacement parts are still available at this time.)

It is almost impossible for you to get the timing "off" in an XJ Jeep Cherokee (or Grand Cherokee) with the 4.0L inline 6-cylinder engine. The 'distributor' (not really a distributor but skip that for now...) has a lock-down tab on it which prevents you from 'adjusting the timing' by advancing or retarding the distributor. DO NOT GRIND THIS TAB OFF! If someone has pulled the 'distributor' out they may have put it back in 1 tooth off - generally won't run other than to spit and fire occasionally.

Renix XJ's (1990 & older) have no OBD port that you can read outside of using a real-time analyzer (Sun Analyzer, etc) at a dealership or garage. No Codes are generated or saved on Renix (pre-HO) XJ's.

HO XJ's (1991 & up) all have OBD1 or OBD2 depending on how new they are.

I get 14-15 on a good day in my 2000.

All tires have a stated lifespan. This is an estimate based on normal driving conditions and correct tire pressure. As they say "You're specific mileage will vary"


Most inexpensive tires should last 35,000 to 40,000 miles.
Most performance tires should last 20,000 to 40,000 miles
Some tires can last up to 70,000 miles or more.

probably just replace the coolant sensor

Front brake shoes are sometimes attached to the calipers by "spring clips" and these can rust and break causing your pads to "float". Sometimes calipers get rusty or pitted on the hydraulic shaft and don't retrack smoothly when you let go of the brakes. This is more noticeable if the pads are well worn. The same happens with the rear shoes. If they are well worn, there is a lot of dust in the vicinity and it can foul your automatic adjusters so the shoes aren't close to the drums and you hear noises. If the noise can be localized to one wheel and the pads are OK, then you might need a new caliper.

the head gasket

If you are asking if it has a safety that shuts the engine off if oil pressure is low, then no it does not.

If you are asking if it has a safety that shuts the engine off if oil pressure is low, then no it does not.

If you mean lift/duration details etc possibly Peugeot technical department would be the best people to contact.

You should never install a body lift of more than 2". You should be able to fit that size tire without a lift, just be sure you have proper backspacing on your wheels. If you still want a body lift I suggest going with a one inch. even with a 3 inch body lift they will still rub

the starter is held on by two bolts. the starter is mounted to the transmission to make contact to the fly wheel. disconnect the battery and then the wires from the back of the starter and the two bolts should be easy to get to. Before you start... disconnect your ground (black) cable from your battery!

It is annoying. First you want to (it helps a lot) remove the fan blade and fan clutch. Then you need to remove your fan shroud. Drain the radiator and look for all of the lines on the radiator. Remember where these are (i forgot one)to avoid an aggravating leak. Take them off one at a time, be prepared for EXTRAfluid to pour out. Take the plate off of the top of it. Luckily all of the bolts to remove the radiator are on the top and the front of the radiator. Lift the radiator right out than reverse the process. Remember to check all of the lines and the bolts to make sure that they are all in the right places otherwise it will rattle and it WILL leak obviously. Good luck. This should take about two hours with a break and that's taking you time and being careful.

The dipstick tube is on the passenger side of the engine compartment. The dipstick is a dealer only special tool.

Both the 4.0L and 4.7L engines use 195� thermostats for all model years from 1999-2004. When replacing a thermostat it is very important to install one with the same temperature rating (the only exception might be with certain performance modifications or chips that recommend or require a different temperature thermostat).

4.0L engine - Draining the cooling system WARNING: DO NOT REMOVE THE CYLINDER BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS OR LOOSEN THE RADIATOR DRAINCOCK WITH SYSTEM HOT AND UNDER PRESSURE. SERIOUS BURNS FROM COOLANT CAN OCCUR. 1. DO NOT remove radiator cap first. With engine cold, locate radiator draincock on the right lower side of radiator facing to rear of vehicle. 2. Attach one end of a hose to the draincock. Put the other end into a clean container. Open draincock and drain coolant from radiator. This will empty the coolant reserve/overflow tank. The coolant does not have to be removed from the tank unless the system is being refilled with a fresh mixture. When tank is empty, remove radiator cap and continue draining cooling system. To drain the engine block of coolant, remove the cylinder block drain plug, located on the side of cylinder block below the exhaust manifold.

4.0L engine - refilling the cooling system Coolant recommendations and cautions: The recommended mixture is 50/50 ethylene-glycol and low mineral content water. Never use pure antifreeze. Only Mopar Antifreeze Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (glycol base coolant with corrosion inhibitors called HOAT) is recommended. This coolant offers the best engine cooling without corrosion when mixed with 50% distilled water. Antifreeze mixture must always be at least 44%, all climates year round. Maximum protection (-90d) is provided with a 68% mixture protection. If the percentage is lower than 44 percent, engine parts may be eroded by cavitation, and cooling system components may be severely damaged by corrosion. CAUTION: Mopar Antifreeze/Coolant, 5 Year/100,000 Mile Formula (MS-9769) may not be mixed with any other type of antifreeze. Mixing of coolants other than specified (non-HOAT or other HOAT), may result in engine damage that may not be covered under the new vehicle warranty, and decreased corrosion protection. CAUTION: Do not use coolant additives that are claimed to improve engine cooling. 4.0L coolant capacity: 1999-2000: 13.0 qts. (including 2.3 qts. for resevoir) 2001-2004: 15.0 qts. (including 1 qt. for resevoir)

1. Tighten the radiator draincock and the cylinder block drain plug(s) (if removed). 2. Fill system using a 50/50 mixture of ethyleneglycol antifreeze and low mineral content water. Fill radiator to top and install radiator cap. Add sufficient coolant to the reserve/overflow tank to raise level to FULL mark. 3. With heater control unit in the HEAT position, operate engine with radiator cap in place. 4. After engine has reached normal operating temperature, shut engine off and allow it to cool. When engine is cooling down, coolant will be drawn into the radiator from the reserve/overflow tank. 5. Add coolant to reserve/overflow tank as necessary. Only add coolant to the reserve/overflow tank when the engine is cold. Coolant level in a warm engine will be higher due to thermal expansion. To purge the cooling system of all air, this heat up/cool down cycle (adding coolant to cold engine) must be performed three times. Add necessary coolant to raise tank level to the FULL mark after each cool down period.

This is only how to flush collant and not replace thermostat as stated on top of this forum.

.035".

There is a drain tube that goes through the firewall and comes out under the car. Use a piece of wire to stick up there and unclog it, water will run out when you have got it.

I just dealt with that problem. My hood would not open no matter how hard I lifted the hood release lever. If the cable is truly broken, there is no nice answer to that, otherwise: Near my hood release there was two screws holding a piece of molding around the hood relase. If you remove this you can see the whole assembly. The release is just one long wire, and can just like mine, gets streched out. If it over streches it doesnt trip the hood release at all. If you would look at the center of the lever, you will see that a thin wire attaches to it. If not, look inside any loose black cable near by. If you have a small needle nose vise grip pliers, you'll need it here. A regular one will work, but it cuts down on the room available to work. Vise grip the thin wire behind the lever. If you first lift the hood release lever, then slowly pull the wire straight out. This should pop the hood, if your wire is simply streched out. If you pull and the wire comes out...you need "other" help. There are kits you can by to adust the tention on the wire...but you decide.

if your foot is off the gas when it shuts off and will restart its most likely the idle air control motor

under the jeep your transfer case remove the bolt with an Allen hole in it with and Allen socket. the fluid should run out of the hole. if you remove the bottom bolt you will drain your transfer case. if you remove the top bolt then you will be able to check it and will not have to refil it.

Bad A/C compressor clutch.

Bad A/C compressor clutch.