Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo

Many newer model vehicles have fans that keep running. I would bet yours is supposed to run for a minute or two to assist in cooling.

Addition: 1 Remove Fan shroud and fan. The 1992 Cherokee does not have a shroud (at least mine doesnt) and the fan is easy to remove. 2. To loosen the belt, the easiest way is to remove the air filter box. a. open air filter box and remove filter b. remove bolt(s) at the bottom of the filter box c. remove all hoses attached to the filter box d. carefully wiggle air filter box loose, and remove e. loosen the 2 pivot bolts on the power steering pump (one is in front, one in back) f. loosen the tensioner bold under the power steering pump (access easier if you remove the air filter box. g. push down on the power steering pump so it slides a bit and relieves tension on the belt h. remove belt. NOTE: make sure you have/make a routing diagram so you know how to put it back again. 3. Remove the water pump 4. Remove the water pump gasket and discard 5. Clean the gasket surface 6. apply a THIN film of Silicon gasket sealer to both sides of the new gasket 7. put the new gasket on 8. install new water pump 9. torque bolts according to factory spec (I just tighten them by feel, but I'm sure it's not reccomended) 10. Put everything back the way you found it. Note: if you are going to do this water pump and rip half your engine compartment out anyways, you might as well do the timing chain if your car has over 100k miles on it. The Steps are the same, except after you take off the water pump, take off the timing chain cover and replace the timing chain. Make sure you mark the timing gears so you can put them back together properly. Not totally sure about the '93, but on the '96 you have to do the following 1. Remove Fan Shroud and Fan. Fan comes off with 4 bolts. 2. Loosen Belt and remove. 3. Remove 6 bolts in the water pump *fan was actually attached to the water pump. that's basically all there is to it.

only iff the steerin wheel came off the same year moter if there is an air bag in it. the plug for the dcu will de different if you try and cut plug or try change it the dcu will not work. and if you hava a bump non of the airbags in the motor will work and your insurers will ask questions. but before removig the steerin wheel make sure you disconect the battery for at least an hour to let the static discharge its self they deploy over 100mph . they wont go off if you disconect battery . but make sure you no your code for your sterio as this will just add to your problems . if the sport looks the same steerin wheel wise the should .

The relay on our 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee was located behind the headlight on the passenger side of the vehicle. We were told by the technicians at the Jeep dealership that you have to remove the bumper to get to it OR you can remove the headlight assembly and drill a hole large enough to get a socket and extension to the bolts on the relay. That's what I did....removed the headlight and drilled a 5/8" hole to get to the relay screws. Why Jeep puts this relay in such a hard place to reach is beside me - - - other than perhaps they don't want it to be easily customer replaceable. Argh! Good luck. I just broke the plastic under the headlight by making hole with a knife and then putting a screwdriver in the hole and tisting. It was alot easier than driling ,but whatever you prefer. I just had a hard time finding a socket for that size bolt. I paid $80.00 for the relay does that sound right or was i taken for a fool? It WAs a lot faster and cheaper tham taking it to the dealer they wanted to charge me $175 to install this $80 relay. Sometimes i can't believe the shamelesness.

Most likely .032, but check to be certain...I have a '91 B2200 and am assuming it to be the same.

nope. comes right out. only jeep has alarm. CANT USE IT UNTIL YOU ENTER THE CODE

standing at the radiator it is the 2 wire sensor all the way to the right of the transmission case. standing at the radiator it is the 2 wire sensor all the way to the right of the front of the transmission case

put your key in and turn it forward but not all the way , unplug the battery then hold the pos cable and neg cable together for about 45 sec. then put them back on the battery and turn your key that should disable it ... good luck

there will be a see through/clear plastic resivior in the engine compartment. there are words saying add or full. check when then engine has warmed up. and always use caution as the fluid will be hot and is poisonious and corosive.

Buddy of mine has 32's but if your willing to do some cutting you can get 33's

This question depends largely on Age of vehicle, Auto or manual, Diesel or Petrol. The most obvious to me would be a more modern Cherokee, Petrol and auto box, Suggesting that the CPU has picked up a major fault. Possibly the gearbox but without looking or full description of symptoms it would be very hard to tell.

depends where you want to install them. the doors are real simple. just take the door panel off and rmove the old speakers. you need to make new holes for the speakers but it depends on what type of speakers you want. you can also use the same wiring from the other speakers if you want. tha back speakers are a little harder to get out.you have to take tha panel off i think but not sure.

I've been trying to find the same fitting for my 95 unit and may be on to something. On the AC compressor there is a fitting labeled H, which I assume is the High pressure side, which is NOT what you seek. I found an aluminum tubing that comes out of the firewall turns right and the follows the passenger side fender all the way to the radiator. There is a female fitting on that tubing that takes the recharge fitting, so after a little more investigation I hope to try that on my car. I hope that this helps you, and me.

Although it depends a little bit on where in the world you live I would suggest that a good quality 10W40 will do just fine. Some will tell you that a 5W30 is better and it might be if you live in a cold climate. Just use a broad multi viscosity oil and you'll be fine. I would stay away from single viscosity oils such as 30 weight or 50 weight. The MOST important thing is to change your oil and filter every 3000 miles or less.

REMOVE THE COVER PLATE ON EACH DIFF. THAT WILL DRAIN THE OIL. THEN CLEAN THE COVER PLATE. SCRAPE ALL THE OLD GASKET SEALENT OFF OF THE COVER PLATE AND WHERE IT MEETS TO THE DIFFERENTIAL AND APPLY NEW GASKET SEALENT. BOLT THE COVER BACK ON. THEN OPEN THE PLUG AND ADD THE PROPER OIL TYPE UNTILL THE OIL REACHES THE LEVEL JUST BEFORE IT POURS OUT OF THE BOTTOM OF THE PLUG HOLE. PUT THE PUG BACK ON. GOOD TO GO.

You don't need to take the center axel nut off to remove the rotors. Take the calipers off (two 13mm bolts on the back side) and the rotor will pull right off. If it's rusted to the hub you might have to bump it with a block of wood, but they usually just slide off. You only need to take that big center nut off if you're pulling the axel.

first do you have no eng heat low operating temp or no heat in side the cab? no eng or low eng heat repalce the thermostat no cab heat first check the hoses to the fire wall right side of eng (passenger side) check both hoses if one is hot and the other is not is a stopped up heater core flush with garden hose and try again if nether is hot or this did not fix it the impeler is probably worn off the water pump replace it if both are hot but no heat the heater box has a vaccum hose off or a door broken

According to the owners manual for my 02 Grand Cherokee Laredo you can tow with all four wheels on the ground after you put the transfer case in neutral, then with the engine shut off, put the transmission in Park. The key should be in the unlocked OFF position. This is found in the manual under the heading Towing- Recreational. I am guessing yours will work the same way. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS AND WARNINGS CAUTION: The following safety precautions must be observed when towing a vehicle: Do not use steering column lock to secure steering wheel during towing operation. 2WD vehicles can be towed with the front wheels on the surface for extended distances at speeds not exceeding 48 km/h (30 mph). Many vehicles are equipped with air dams, spoilers, and/or ground effect panels. To avoid component damage, a wheel-lift towing vehicle or a flat-bed hauling vehicle is recommended. Secure loose and protruding parts. Always use a safety chain system that is independent of the lifting and towing equipment. Do not allow towing equipment to contact the disabled vehicle

if it is making a loud knocking noise it is about to go out If when you put it in to gear, it jumps in to it and the car starts to move instantly then the converter may be shot.

Top off radiator, then fill coolant reserve to proper level.

You must make sure engine and radiator are cold because you can get hurt if hot coolant squirts out when removing radiator cap. Use a rag to protect your hand when removing radiator cap.

The 1997-2001 flasher module is located 2-3 inches below the headlamp switch. Remove the knee blocker, and disengage the retainer for the combination flasher electrical connector from the instrument panel mounting bracket. Pull out the flasher. A good replacement flasher is a Tridon Stant EP27.

If completely drained from both the pan and torque converter, 14 quarts. If you drop the pan only, 5 quarts. DON'T OVERFILL!!!! Put the correct number of quarts and then check.

If it keeps burning out it may be a bad groumnd. ... going out but not burning out is poor connections, or damaged wiring. The headlights, and most other lights, kept going out in my 1993 Escort because of a dying alternator. Apparently, it was sending too much juice into the electrical system. If you're experiencing similar problems I would suggest checking the alternator just to be sure it's not the same problem. Since I replaced the bad alternator all bulbs are fine and are no longer needing to be replaced every couple weeks or so. I would suggest questioning the mechanic that removed your fog lights. Did they tape the cut wires or leave them exposed?

There is a large metric bolt right (17 or 18mm) in the center of the main crank pulley. Immobilize the crank using a vise-grip equiped with a locking chain. Wrap an old fan belt (cut-to-size) around the crank and protect the serpentine gooves of the crank pulley, then wrap the vise chain and clamp onto the crank. Use a good breaker bar, or impact hammer to break the bolt torque free counter-clockwise. Note: Don't remove the four 10mm bolts on the crank pulley. The whole thing comes off as one assemble piece.