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Mazda Protege

Also known as Familia in some markets, the Protégé was a compact car produced by Mazda Motor Corporation from 1964-2003 for the North American market. The Protégé was one of the company’s best sellers and was manufactured in eight generation models.

1,312 Questions

2002 Mazda protege 5 headlight bulb size?

H755 low beam, 9005 high beam. There are upgrade options available. See sources and related links below for more comprehensive bulb information.

What is the problem with a Mazda protege 1996 if it gets stuck in park?

Is the car facing uphill? If it is its a good idea for a few people to push the car from behind while another person applying the brakes and taking it out of "park". You might have also accelerated too much into a parking bumper (against your front tires) making it much more difficult to take the car out of park. That's happened to me before and I've learned not to go all the way into a parking space to the point that you hit the bumper and then lock the car in by quickly placing it on park (for example, when you're in a hurry) In that event again try to push the car forward, apply the brakes and then try to get it out of park. You may have blown a fuse. That happened to me in my 98 Ford Escort. It kept blowing because there was a short. There's a short term solution which is to take off a little, very little tab next to the shift lever on that faceplate. Stick a screwdriver or anything that will fit in there and push down. While pushing you will be able to move the lever out of Park.

How do you fix a radiator on a 1991 Nissan 300zx 6 cylinder automatic?

to replace the radiator you will have to remove the front clip of the car and the air intake box i replaced mine it took me around 8 hours.. yeah me too. lot's of fun!

Does the 1995 Mazda Protege DX have an interference engine?

According to the following link the 95-97 1.5L engine is a interference engine. Change the belt or bend the valves......... http://www.car-stuff.com/carparts/mazdaprotege19951997daycody952661.html

How do you tight valve cover gasket in Mazda Protege 1998?

I'll tell you how to do the job right. In my experience, this is the only way for my 98 protege that works for sure.

You'll need:

-a cold engine.

-an inch-lbs torque wrench that can read as low as the torque specification for this (keep reading--I'll share that)

-a 10mm socket

-a socket extension (I use a 10" extension--length or multiple extensions contrary to popular thought do not affect the accuracy of your torque wrench in situations like these)

-good bolts (if any of them start to strip or weaken, spend less than $5 at your local hardware store/lowes/home depot and purchase 9 bolts--the thread you're looking for is M6x1.0--use an old bolt to compare length--and purchase 9 regular flat washers to go with--these bolts will likely be 10.9 grade, which is fine. I wouldn't recommend weaker bolts than that though.)

Steps Before you torque it down: make sure that the grooves on the valve cover that the gasket sits in are cleanas best as you can make them, and the surfaces on the head where the gasket seals against are all clean as best as you can make them. be sure not to put any deep scratches anywhere the gasket will be.

Assuming everything is straight, you will not need gasket maker/sealant for this and should not use any. I will address exceptions at the end.

Seat the gasket carefully into the valve cover--it must be fully seated in all grooves--don't forget the spark plug holes!

Turn the valve cover back over and carefully set it on the head. The gasket, if fully seated, should remain in the valve cover. Line up the bolt holes.

Drop a bolt/washer combination into each of the 9 holes. (Hex flanged bolts are the OEM spec part.)

Here's where you'll begin tightening:

From this point forward, follow this (Mazda-specified) tightening sequence ONLY:

1 --> 2 --> 3 -\

\

/-> 7 --> 8 --> 9 \

\ /

\- 6 <-- 5 <-- 4 <-

1) Spin all bolts down (in order) until they just barely seat on the valve cover. This is easiest if you make a screwdriver out of your socket and extension (without the torque wrench).

2) Assemble your socket, extension, and torque wrench. If you have a click type wrench, go ahead and set it. If you have a beam-type (the big needle kind), that's okay. That's what I use. The specification is about 66 to 95 inch-lbs.

3) Snug all bolts down (in order) until they barely begin to offer you resistance through the torque wrench.

4) Start at bolt 1 again, and fully torque all bolts (in order) to spec.

5) To verify, go through the tightening sequence again. This is more easily verified in my opinion with a beam type, as you can watch the needle hold at the specified torque.

After tightening: Put your tools away, shut the hood, and go drive the vehicle long enough (i.e., go to the semi-distant 7-11 for something to drink) to give it a chance to leak through the valve cover if it's going to. If you torqued it properly and your valve cover is not warped or damaged and the head is not warped or damaged, it shouldn't leak.

When you come back, shut off the motor, open the hood, and take a look. Look closely around all edges of the valve cover for fresh wetness. If there's already lots of wet grime from before, wash it away, let it dry, and drive the car again.

If you're leaking in one section around the outside but not the whole thing, you may have a warped valve cover, assuming that there are no serious digs/gouges/scratches in the valve cover or the head.

If you are leaking, let the engine cool again, and redo the procedure as described below. You may reuse the same gasket if you've just bought it and it hasn't been damaged (i.e., no kinks/tears/etc). That's the beauty of rubber.

When you redo the procedure however, make sure everything gasket-related is once again very clean (i.e. free of oil), then apply gasket maker (I recommend Permatex Ultra Black--great stuff--but make sure its a black, highly oil-resistant type gasket maker) both in the groove on the valve cover, and on the other side of the gasket that will contact the head. Apply it only in and somewhat beyond the leaking area(s), and apply it somewhat liberally. Try not to get the stuff on any moving parts in the head. Follow the tightening procedure exactly the same way.

Once you've torqued the valve cover again with gasket maker, regardless of what the directions say on the tube, let it sit there and dry/cure (without starting the motor) for at least 3 hours if not more. The 1 hour of drying is not enough in my experience for a truly good seal.

Once it's had hours on end to cure, drive the vehicle whenever you next choose to, and then after enough driving, take another look. Look for leaks around the whole thing again, but concentrate in the area(s) where you used gasket maker, and just beyond that/those area(s).

At this point, it should be sealing. If it's not:

Do you have seriously deep gouges in the head, or any cracks? Take it to a reputable machine shop specializing in engines and see what they think is possible. HOPEFULLY this is not the case. If your engine runs very well, your head is likely not warped, and you'll be okay.

Do you have seriously deep gouges or any cracks in your valve cover? Is your valve cover seriously warped to the point of not being able to even torque it down well? Replace the valve cover when you are able. Make sure the one you get is straight and in otherwise good condition.

I hope you've been able to make use of this information. My name's Daniel, and I'm a Mazda mechanic for a living. If you have questions, email me at one of my personal email addresses: thrashmandan@gmail.com. Have fun, and do it right! =>

How do you change brakes on a 2003 Mazda Protege?

There are two bolts (17mm head) on each caliper, one on top, one on the bottom, both on the inside of the wheel. The one on the bottom can be removed with a ratchet, the bolt on top will need a box end 12 point wrench due to the limited space given to work with. Remove these and the caliper will lift off the rotor. Using a flat blade screw driver pry the old brake pads from the bracket without bending the bracket. These will be reused with the new brake pads. With a "C-clamp", or similar device, slowly compress the brake piston. (You will notice brake fluid leaking from the reservoir. Have a drip pan ready if you don't want brake fluid on the floor or ground.) CAUTION: If the piston is compressed too quickly the pressure could damage the cylinoid. Make sure the brackets are secure in the caliper and relatively clean. Set the new pads in the brackets just as the old ones were making sure outside pad and inside pad are on the correct sides of the caliper. Resecure caliper with the bolts that were removed. After completing both sides, before driving the vehicle, pump the brake petal to recharge the brake line and set the new pads against the rotars. This should take only 2-3 pumps before noticing a change in pressure. Good luck.

What is the code p0507 mean on a 02 Mazda Protege?

Higher then expected Idle, at least 200 RPM.

May be a vacuum leak, a dirty Idle Air Control valve.

Low manual transmission fluid symptoms in a Mazda Protege dx 4 door?

I just got an old 1992 manual gear Mazda protege dx 4 door. When I put it in gear after a few seconds the engine is revving but it doesn't seem to be engaging like it should. It's like I'm giving it the gas and can hear it, but it isn't accelarating like it should. Could this be the transmission fluid? How do I check it...I can't see a dipstick in the motor?

In Answer to that question, you don't see a dipstick because it's a manual transmission, what your experiencing here is a burnt clutch not a lack of fluid, becaus your engine is Reving, and your getting no output.... sounds like you should just get another transmission with a good clutch in a used scrapyard, lesss expensive then the labor for a brand new clutch!!

Just a thought

Mat

How do you replace a headlight bulb on a 2002 Mazda Protege?

Answer

I had previous experience with a Honda headlight which was very simple. The housing for the Protege 5 is not easy at all to get to. There is a rubber ring that has to be removed to get to the bulb assembly. The bulb assembly is awkward and doesn't easily slide out and back in. I messed with mine for quite awhile, got it installed, and then had it only working part of the time. Finally I took it to the dealer...$78 later... It might not be worth the aggravation to try it yourself!!

I just figured it out. Once you take the rubber ring off you will notice that you can not pull it out. It will move just a big but not enough to get it out. I worked on it for about an hour then somehow I realized that the "cage" that its in actually pulls out. There is a latch on the side that you push in and unhook then the wire cage swivels to the side allowing the bulb to come out. Leave it out to the side and replace the bulb. Once you put the new bulb in, just close the cage and re-hook the latch. Once you know how it to do it, is should only time a few seconds

Whats wrong with an 88 Ford Laser that's fan belt keeps breaking and Squealing and the alternator has been tightened?

Make sure all of the pulleys are turning freely. If there is a bad bearing, it could be causing some friction that ends up weakening the belt and resulting in a broken belt. It could be too tight to. You should have about 12mm deflection in the middle of the longest space.

Where is the oil filter located on a 2003 Mazda Protege?

The oil filter is located directly above the drain plug. It's well hidden and hard to see unless you know where to look.

Where is the crankshaft sensor on a 1997 Mazda Protege?

Answer

the camshaft sensor is the distributor but the crankshaft position sensor is located right next to the crankshaft its held on by one bolt

Why does the battery light stay on when a Mazda protege 1998 is running?

You have a problem with the charging system. More than likely the alternator has failed.

What is a P1145 code on a 1996 Mazda Protege?

"Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor, RH Bank 2" wouldn't think it would be too much to fix on this car.

Where do you fill the transmission fluid on a 1995 Mazda protege?

usually it requires you to buy a funnel that is tapered narrow and will fit into the tube where you check the tranny fluid. toward the back of the engine (drivers side) in a 1.6l, then start pouring slowly. check the quart capacity and fill according to the owners manual.

Where is the EGR valve on a 2000 Toyota Camry I4?

The EGR valve is a round "valve" (has one hose coming from top, one from side) that is on top of the throttle body. Actually, it is bolted with two bolts to the rear of the throttle body. If you don't know what a throttle body is, look for the pulley that moves when you press the gas pedal (with engine off). If i remember correctly....there is no egr valve on a 2000 Camry. If there is however it will be where the last guy said. The link below is to a picture of the EGR valve for a 2000 Camry 4-cyl. engine with an automatic transmission. It is bolted to the back side of the intake manifold with two bolts, and to a flange at the top of a steel tube running up from the exhaust system with another two bolts. http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/image.jsp?title=EGR%20Valve&url=http%3A//img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/B7010168929OES.JPG

What is 1995 Mazda protege 1.5L firing order?

What's the firing order for a 96 Mazda protege

Where is the pcv valve on a 1993 Mazda Protege DX?

it should be at top left corner of valve cover go to auto parts store for manual about $15.

How do you replace a windshield washer jet on a 1998 Mazda Protege?

If it is clogged use a fine sewing needle (needles come in different thicknesses)to open the hole..use washer to force clog out.. also try a cotton ball soaked with ammonia to soften the clog..

What causes the alternator belt to keep breaking om 1994 Toyota Tercel?

Possibly the alternator bearings are going out, the belt might be adjusted too tightly, or another device powered by that belt could be going bad. The water pump is commonly powered by the same belt as the alternator, and the bearings in the water pump could be intermittantly siezing up momentarily. Check all pulleys used by the alternator belt, except the crankshaft pulley, to make sure that they turn freely, have no play, and do not grind when turned. When installed, the belt should have about 1/2 inch (12mm) free play along the longest reach of the belt. If there is not sufficient play, the belt will break very quickly, and all components driven by the belt will be damaged.