Mazda Trucks

The schematic diagram of the fuel injection system of a 1992 Mazda B220 can be seen in the service manual of the said model. This can be acquired by contacting the vehicle manufacturer or service centers.

I've always been able to find wiring diagrams in the back section of my do-it-at-home Hayne's manual bought from a local auto parts store. Maybe in the back of Chilton's version. They are under $20 and come in handy all of the time.

first make sure hazard lights are not on.next you need to ckeck the grounds from the battery.

To replace the timing belt requires a strong mechanical know how.If your not mechanically inlcined I suggest take it to a shop and have this done.Apparently you do not own a chiltons or haynes manual and are looking for a quick fix.This is very specific componet and not enough time or space to elaborate on the how to seqment.A shop can do this for small change and very quick under 250.00 with a warranty and suggest this route.

Where to start is the big?One are your tune items such as plugs,wires,cap/rotor button and oxygen sensor is good condition(not high miles or age).Now I suggest removing the egr valve mounted directly under the carburetor and clean it thoroughly.Use carb cleaner and a brush or sand paper.It has one vacumm line,and one electrical connection.Now the next issue is the exhuast collector which bolts to the end of the exhaust manifold and is about the size of half gallon paint can and it has screens inside of it to catch carbon buildup and maybe clogged.To remove it requires removing the exhaust manifold and unbolt the exhuast pipe underneath due to it has to be removed from the bottom due to it's size.To clean use a new paint can(home depot,lowes) sell these and use some muratic acid to soak it in .Use gloves to to THIS this is corrosive.Let sit for awhile and then use baking soda and clean water to clean and neutralize the acid and blow out with air or let air dry overnite.Brake cleaner will work but, much slower process and not as effective.Now if after doing the basic stuff listed the only other item is the catalytic convertor is clogged up and needs to be replaced.This definitely will choke the engine and make it cutoff when the vehicles idle or pressure to move increase.Start with the simple stuff but,bet the convertor is the problem however suggest cleaning the egr,and tune up items and clean the carburetor and lube the linkage on it with liquid wrench especially the choke.And note if you remove the exhaust manifold soak the charge air pipe nuts,and nuts at the studs for it a day before with liquid wrench so it will remove easier and not break the studs or strip the charge air pipes threads!!

The white smoke on cold start ups is normal for these trucks due to poor oil circulation on the top end at the valves.I suggest doing a full tune up wires,plugs,rotor,distributor cap,pcv valve, and air filter,fuel filter.I would also suggest removing the air cleaner housing thoroughly clean the carburetor with carburetor cleaner and especially the cables for the choke and throttle(I use brake cleaner on the cables).Lube the cables and choke any moving metal linkage parts with liquid wrench or white lithium grease in a aeresol can.If after doing the above it may be time to remove the exhaust collector below the exhaust manifold and clean it with brake cleaner or soak in muratic acid(use gloves) and let dry.You may have a partcially clogged exhaust collector or catalytic convertor reducing your horsepower.Start simple with the tune up items.And if you decide to to tackle the exhaust work you have to remove the exhaust manifold and disconnect the exhaust pipes underneath and two brackets to remove the collector which only can be installed or removed by disconnecting these items along with the charge air pipes that connect to the air cleaner housing.Hope this does not overwhelm you with information.Tune up should correct along with the carburetor clean up and a new oxygen sensor if way old will not hurt on cost 20 dollars for it on average.

look on the drivers side kick panel in front of the drivers door. remove the 4 screws on the panel by your left foot the relay switch should be mounted under the panel.

good luck

theres a little clip that needs to be pushed out from behind the crank, push the door panel back and you should be able to see it, theres a few ways to get it off, one you can go buy some fancy tool or it you can get a small screwdriver back there push it off the crank but dont lose it and make sure to put it back on afterwards

You can go to Autozone.com and theres a link there you can type in what diagram you need and it pulls it right up

my Mazda 1996 b4000 power window relay is located in an auxiliary relay box under the instrument panel next to the steering wheel shaft. The size of the box is about 3x5x2 and it has 8 relays in it.

Go to autozone.com and enter your vehicles information and once entered scroll down to the area where you can do a part location on the vehicle.There site is easy to navigate.I clearly have no idea on the newer models this is the best way and free at that.

follow lower radiator hose back to engine.

The bed of a truck is the part in the very back some people put a cover over it the cover is a hard cover.

Yes you can.The 86-93 model mazda b series trucks have the same bumper and mounting points while some designs are different in LOOKS like with chrome or trim on them.They are interchangeable.The end caps are the same except on the four wheel drive trucks(this is just specific to those).Ok simple swap is A OK!

Transmission reservoir? Are you referring to the transmission oil pan? If so it is located on the underside of the transmission and looks like a square type box painted black bolted to the bottom of the transmission.

you cant

First you have to remove the air filter housing, to see the carbon canister with hoses. The canister is oval, from top view. There are two evaporative emissions devices that connect to this canister. One is the Purge Valve Sensor, it is like a one inch black box with wire connectors and two connectors for tube on top. The other is the evaporative emissiong purge soleniod. It is usually a white plastic cylinder, about 2 inches long and also with two connectors for tubing. Make sure you make note of the correct direction of the two tubes when replacing or cleaning. The solenoid will show an arrow indicating direction to motor.

depends on wether it is auto or stick flexplate is on auto and flywheel on stick I actually am looking for a Mazda b3300 flexplate seemingly impossible to find

Rarely a cylinder will fill with fuel from a seriously flooding engine, making it impossible for the engine to crank. Does the engine TRY to crank? Is the starter engaging? If it's truly filling the cylinder with fuel you should be able to pull the sparkplugs and crank the engine. When that happens fuel should come out of the sparkplug holes. Make sure that you have a couple helpers and some fire extinguishers with you just in case since you don't want that much fuel igniting under your hood.

Admittedly, it's an off-the-wall idea, but it actually can happen. If that isn't your problem, go after the individual problems. Replace the "needle and seat" in the carburetor to solve the flooding problem. If the cylinder isn't filling, track down the starter problems.

The fuel can wash away the oil on the cylinder walls and rings. Best to remove the plugs and shoot a little oil into each cylinder, unit you can easily crank over.

I'm guessing that you are wanting to know how to get the Check Engine Light to go off. It would be a VERY good Idea to have a qualified shop hook it up and find out WHY it is on and then Fix the problem that your On-board Computer is detecting. Hoipe This Helps.

Yes look in your manual it will show you were it is but if your having a problem its more likely a wire than the switch.

Diesel Engine RF R2 Adjusting the valves on the Mazda diesel engine involves replacing discs that rest in a recess in the top of each tappet. Intake 0.008-0.012in.{0.2>0.3mm} exhaust 0.012>0.016in. {0.3>0.4mm }. Clearance is between cam lobe and the adjusting disk {low side of can }. need an assortement of disks . more information try cpr@spin.net.au.

At the top of the clutch pedal in the cab of the truck.

I will assume you are regarding the pulley for the power steering? If so to loosen it use a socket on the top of the pulley it should have a flat head style appearance.Loosen it clockwise and then the big nut on front of the pulley is a 7/8 inch combination wrench loosen it and the pulley should slide down to make the PS belt loose.This pulley is kind of weird but,by loosening the top bolt (metric) the bolt will come up as you take the tension off.Then YOU defenitely have to loosen the nut on the front of the pulley itself which alloys the pulley to move up or down.To adjust back with new belt on run the top bolt which is behind the pulley with the flat head cut in it run it down tight then tighten the nut on front of the pulley this locks the pulley in place so it will not move.Hope this helps.If this question is in reference to the tensioner for the timing belt resubmit your question.

It is a pain in the back side! you have to remove the fan first then when you find the two bolts getting them out is the easy part, puting it back in is the HARD PART. First I would get the good gasket, that helps a bit but the Thermostat fits in the hose end and the back end fits into the engine. becouse of this DUMB *** design keeping the THerm still as you try to line up the bolt holes is next to impossable. It takes about an hr to to a 5 min job, two if you never changed it before. Have fun