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Mercury Sable

Manufactured by Ford Motor Company, the Mercury Sable was offered as a mid-size sedan in 1986-2005 and as a full-size sedan in 2008-2009. One significant feature of the vehicle was its front light bar – a lamp fitted between the vehicle’s front headlamps.

1,908 Questions

Why does your heat go on and off in your 1998 Mercury Sable?

Just a little more information to help clarify:

  • The blower is going on / off??

  • The temperature is going cold/warm??
The "Related Questions" below offer a starting point for both types of problems...

Where is the crankshaft position sensor on 1994 mercury sable 3.8 L V 6?

I cant remember if a 1994 had a distributer or not. If it has a distributer, there is no crankshaft position sensor. That information is a calculated value using the input from the distributer stator(pickup coil). If there is no distributer, then there will be a crank sensor on the front of the engine down by the crank pulley.

How do you replace a 1999 mercury sable's harmonic balancer?

I changed one on a 92 sable, and let me tell you, it was a ****pain!!!!**** i was able to access the bolt through the wheel well on the passenger's side, with the tire removed. Here is what i did, but!!! It is not the safest thing to do. On my car, the bolt holding on the balancer will tighten with spinning of the engine. I didnt have any air tools, so, a friend told me to attach a socket to a large breaker bar and put the socket over the bolt. Then wedge the breaker bar, with the socket still over the bolt, between the body and the ground. Check to see what direction the engine spins so that you know which side to wedge the breaker bar on. Once the bar is firmly wedged...and no one is around!!! Turn the key for less then one second and "bump" the engine. The movement of the engine with the breaker bar on the bolt, will loosen the bolt so it can be removed. Fyi...the bar will fly out a bit when you do that so again...make sure no one is around!!! The other option is to use an impact wrench to remove the bolt.

to get the bolt back on, you will have to press the balancer into the hole. Now...at the factory, I'm sure that they just use a hydrolic press, but that is not an option when the engine is mounted in the car. I'm assuming you could use some type of air hammer to press it in, but you will need a block of wood between the balancer and the hammer. Don't hammer the balancer itself. It is actually a two piece unit and you can knock it out of whack. If you don't have an air hammer, you will have to do what i did, which is use a 5 lb hammer and beat the darn thing into the engine! Quite a pain!! My arms hurt for several days afterward. Once you get the balancer in enough, you can then use an air impact wrench to install the bolt. If you don't press the balancer in far enough, you will strip the threads on the bolt when you try to install it. You will have to have an air impact wrench to install the bolt the rest of the way in (i borrowed one from a nieghbor). If you try and use a breaker bar, it will not work, because you will just turn the crankshaft inside the engine as you are trying to tighten the bolt.

hope this helps...

Steve phx AZ

How do you remove headlight switch on 2001 Sable?

On the bottom edge of the switch's plastic trim there is a small slot in the center. Insert a flat-bladed screwdriver and gently pry upward and outward. When the switch begins to come out, pry around the edge until it comes free. The switch is held in place with three small spring clips.

Where is the inerita switch located on 2001 Mercury Sable?

On the right side of the trunk behind the trunk liner - look for an access hole

( station wagon - behind the service panel - right side of cargo area )

How to remove the dash to fix a temperature blend door problem on a 1996-1999 Ford Taurus - Mercury Sable?

AnswerThe temp blend door is not controlled by cable or vacuum. It is electric.

I'd bet the farm that you have one of two problems.

  • Either the heater core is stopped up due to rust in the cooling system, or
  • There is a problem with the blend door/blend door actuator.

Either case, the dash has got to come out to fix. How big is the job? For somebody like me who has removed hundreds of those dashes, I can have it out in 45 minutes. Somebody who has never had one out, it could take all day.

  • Disconnect the battery and wait five minutes to power down the airbags.
  • Pull the steering column out.(make sure you lock the column and index the steering shaft, so you do not put it back together 360 degrees out and damage your airbag clockspring).
  • Remove the trim down both windshield pillars, both ends of the dash, and kick panels.
  • Remove the big trim piece running across the top of the dash below the windshield. There are three 7mm screws across the top of the dash, remove them.
  • There are two 13mm bolts on each end of the dash under the end trim panels, remove them.
  • Tug on the dash and see if there is any more bolts in the middle, but that should be it.
  • Get some help, because as you pull the dash away from the firewall, there will be some electrical connectors at both ends you will have to disconnect as they become visible. There may also be one or two connectors in the middle.

Here is something you may want to know to help you figure out what is wrong. There is not just one temp blend door in the box, but there are two that work together. One of them is called a secondary stratification door. Ford has had so much trouble with that secondary door warping and binding against the other door, causing heat and AC problems, that they have revised a new door to replace the old one. The part number is 3F1Z-19D842-AA just in case you get somebody at the Ford parts counter who doesn't have a clue.

What type of antifreeze do you use in a 2001 Mercury Sable?

According to the 2001 Mercury Sable Owner Guide :

For the " Vulcan " and " Duratec " 3.0 litre V6 engines :

They came from the factory with a 50 / 50 mix of distilled water and GREEN

colored antifreeze ( meeting Ford specification ESE-M97B44-A )

Why are your Instrument Panel Cluster lights out?

The light buls maybe burn out. -------------------------------------------- Instrument Cluster Removal & Installation 1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the cluster opening trim panel. 3. On vehicles equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the loop on the indicator cable assembly from the retainer pin. Remove the thumbwheel bracket screw from the cable bracket and slide the bracket out of the slot in the steering column tube. 4. Remove the instrumental cluster retaining bolts. 5. Pull the instrumental cluster out of the instrument panel. 6. Detach the electrical connectors. 7. Remove the instrument cluster. To install; 8. The installation is the reverse of the removal. 9. Connect the battery cable, and check the operation of all gauges, lights and signals. *** Turn the light bulb housing counter clock wise. Sometimes they are very hard to turn. Don't be afraid to turn them. ***

How do you test - check the fuel pump on a Ford Taurus - Mercury Sable?

The easiest initial test is to determine if you hear it run when the key is turned to the RUN position.

Note: the fuel pump is directly under the rear seat, slightly to the passenger side of center - by about 7 inches. You may want to climb into the back seat to get closer, or even reach under the car to the general area - and have some one turn the key to run and see if you feel it run for 4-6 seconds.

Another test is to put a pressure gauge on the schrader(?) valve on the fuel line on the top of the engine (passenger side on the DOHC) - it should read somewhere in the 30+ ft lbs range, not running.

Note #2: the pink w/ black stripe wire is the power to the pump (sounds like a political slogan).

Note #3: just to say you did it, doublecheck the emergency fuel shutoff switch back in the right corner of the trunk/"way back" of a wagon. The button should be in the down position.

Note #4: good to check the fuses too.

Note #5: the fuel pump for a DOHC Duratec engine is DIFFERENT from the Vulcan or flex fuel. Higher specs than the others.

AnswerI would guess try replacing fuel pump, But before you do , spend 20.00 bucks on a Haynes manual at your local Auto Zone or Advanced Auto and do a little multi-meter work before buying the wrong part. Everything is electronic so you never know. I had an older Ford Tempo once and the fuel pump did the same thing then eventually went out and had to replace. Hope this helps!!

Added by CamaroLuver: Kudos on the mutimeter advice! Better than going out and buying a bunch of parts, and doing the guess work. It COULD be the fuel pump then again could not. Just because you replaced the relay doesn't mean it's working right. Touch the fuel pump relay when you don't hear your pump come on, have a friend turn your car on (not crank) and see if you feel the relay click over. If not then you aren't getting power to your relay. Then it's a different problem entirely. Wiring, a ground, possibly computer problem, do alot of testing before you go out and buy parts. Also test if you have spark before you rule out to be a fuel delivery problem (which I'm guessing it is) I learned that the hard way. Had the exact same symptoms, bought a new relay, went through 3 pumps before we realized it wasn't either one, got a new ignition coil and switch, ECM, fuel injectors. Turned out to be some bad wiring and a fusible link. Electrical problems are the greatest!!! :-p *sarcasm*

See "Related Questions" below for more detail on many of these tests or checkpoints...

How do you check the OBD problem code without a diagnostic tool and reset the check engine light on a 1999 Mercury Sable?

Some of the auto parts retailers around the country will let you borrow a code scanner in the hopes that you will buy necessary parts from them. You can't really test/reset the OBD system without the code scanner. The " check engine light" is by far one of the most misunderstood technological advances It is a warning light that is illuminated when there is a problem affecting the EMISSIONS of the vehicle.. Don't let it bother you as it is a good thing once you understand it. One point that was brought up a recent meeting of technicians was that the amount of hydrocarbons is greater when the gas cap is left off than when the engine is running. Hydrocarbons are part of pollution emitted as gasoline evaporates. Going a step farther, one facet of the emission system is the "Evaporative" portion. This is when the fumes from the gasoline are leaking from the system into the outside air. This is one part of the emission system that can trigger a check engine light. I would say a small percentage of the vehicles that have a check engine light are the result of a loose or inadequate gas cap. But understand that many scenarios are possible with the "check engine light" The vehicle's powertrain computer (note that some vehicles have multiple computers aside from the powertain computer) will run a series of self-tests. They will only run under certain criteria. And they are different from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some self-tests or

Can the coil backfire on a Ford Taurus - Sable?

Yes it could be causing a backfire.

Note there are other, equally or more common causes - bad plug wires to mention just one.

More trouble-shooting and maintenance history are needed before replacing the coil.

I would suspect the "Check Engine Light" is also on(??)... have the Diagnostic Trouble Codes read and then...

See "Related Questions" below for more

How do you remove the belt tensioner on a Taurus or Sable?

There are wear indicator markings on the side of the tensioner - if it shows a worn out belt even when you have a new belt, that's a good indicator the tensioner spring is no longer doing the job.The belt tensioner maintains a constant pressure on the serpentine belt, which is the wide, ribbed belt that drives all the front end accessories. The simple answer is to remove the belt, then remove the belt tensioner. Of course, nothing is that simple.

Before starting any work around the serpentine belt, disconnect the ground cable from the battery just to be safe. The working space around the belt and pulleys is pretty restricted, so you you may want to unhook and unbolt the coolant expansion tank for better access.

While the belt is still in place, be sure you have an accurate diagram of the path the belt takes around all the pulleys and idlers. This will save you a lot of time and aggravation later on. If there isn't a diagram on the fan shroud, draw it out yourself.

To remove the belt, you first have to release the pressure from the belt tensioner itself. The manuals recommend using a 15mm wrench on the pulley bolt to rotate the tensioner arm. (Some older models have a square hole in the tensioner arm itself that fits a 1/2" drive.) If your engine is a 3.0L OHV (the most common), turn clockwise, towards the front of the car. If your engine is a 3.0 OHC, turn counterclockwise toward the back of the car. A deep offset box end wrench will work, but you may have to put a length of pipe over the handle end of the wrench to get enough torque to move the arm. A better choice is a serpentine belt tool, available from most automotive supply stores. It costs about $25 and is basically a long, flat breaker bar with an assortment of sockets and a 1/2" extension bar. Its low profile makes it easier to do the job without rounding off the bolt head, which is a danger with the "make-do" alternatives.

CAUTION: If the tensioner spring is seized, too much torque on the pulley bolt may round off the bolt head or even shear off the bolt. If the arm doesn't move with reasonable pressure, try gentle pressure with a flat prybar on the pulley itself, being careful not to damage the belt or whatever you're prying against.

With the pressure off the belt, slide it off one of the pulleys (the idler pulley is a good choice because it doesn't have ribs or a shoulder that may damage the belt. With the belt out of the way, removing the tensioner is a matter of removing one mounting bolt. Unfortunately, on some Taurus models, Ford chose to use a T50 Torx head cap screw for the job, so be sure you have the right bit because this isn't a place to improvise. If you round out the Torx head, you're looking at chisel and torch work.

The question doesn't state why the belt tensioner is being removed. If it's a question of bearing noise from the tensioner pulley, it's possible to replace just the pulley rather than the whole tensioner assembly. If the tensioner is seized, it may be possible to free it up and reinstall it, but be conservative. Carefully inspect the serpentine belt and the idler pulley, too. None of these parts are that expensive to replace but failure in service can cause extensive damage to accessories or the engine itself, particularly if the water pump doesn't operate, since the engine can overheat to the point of causing damage.

Installation is the reverse of the above, taking care to route the belt correctly around all the pulleys and idlers. Be careful not to over-torque any fasteners as you put everything back together.

Once things are back in place, look everything over again carefully. Make sure there is nothing obstructing the path of the belt or rubbing on any of the pulleys. Check the alignment of all the components and make sure the belt is centered in all the pulleys and idlers. The last step is to reconnect the ground cable to the battery, check that everyone is clear of the front of the car and start the engine. After it's been running a minute or so, do a visual check that the belt is running straight and true and that there's no obvious slap or play, or smoke that might indicate the belt is rubbing against something. Also make sure that all the pulleys are moving properly, and not seized. Take a test drive and be sure that all the components (alternator, power steering, A/C, and water pump) are working properly.

Your first step is to remove the washer/coolant tank assembly so you can get easier access the area of the tensioner and belt. Then remove the serpentine belt. I usually do this by inserting a pry bar into the tensioner casting and pushing down or forward to relieve tension on the belt.

Once the belt is removed, simply remove the center bolt from the tensioner housing. The tensioner will come right off.

If the idler pulley is noisy, but the tensioner is strong, you may want to just replace the pulley.

Change the belt too if it looks worn or old.

First remove the belt tension utilizing a serpentine belt removal tool available for purchase or rental at parts stores. Rotate the bolt on the tensioner clockwise on OHV, or counterclockwise on OHC engines, then remove the drive belt. Check both the tensioner and idle pulley by spinning. If replacement is needed, remove bolt and replace tensioner and idle pulley. Reinstall belt.

Put on a heavy pair of gloves and get a 2x4 piece of lumber. With your hands, pull up on the belt (this will take quite a bit of strength) bringing the weighted hup towards the front of the car. At this point slip the wood behind it to hold it forward. Now you can pull up again and slide the belt off the top pully, and you might need a screwdriver to get it started.

Why is there water in your spare tire compartment?

You have a water leak. Look for a trail from where it is entering.

Over drive or normal drive on a mercury sable?

Overdrive is the normally allowed position . It won't shift into overdrive

until the speed is higher anyway , such as on the highway / freeway

Which CD changer fits a 2000 sable?

That would depend if you are looking for:

  • Factory original equipment, like Ford installed in the trunk, or
  • New equipment that is compatible or replaces the factory radio unit

Not sure about the first, but for *new* equipment, the best place to find 'what fits', is at Crutchfield.com. Plug in the vehicle specifics and their system presents only the after-market equipment that is specifically compatible with the car.

Note: if you're looking for a new in-dash unit, there are converters for the dash panel that will allow you to install an after-market radio/cd.

See "Related Questions" below for more

Heat goes in and out sometimes in Mercury Sable ITS A 97 WHAT DO I DO?

Does the heat go in and out, or just the blower?

If heat does altogether, it could be the heater core. Let's hope it's not that. If the blower goes in and out it could just be the blower motor. If the blower works on some settings and not others it's most likely the blower motor relay. It should be very similar to my 95 (both components were located under the glove behind a black plastic cover). A blower is about $40 and the relay about $20. It's not too bad to fix on your own, even if you've never worked on a car before.
See "Related Questions" below for much more on these problems...

How would I go about adding a trunk light to my 96 Mercury sable?

Go to your local auto parts store and get an add on hood light. It's a light that comes on when you tilt the hood up. Mount it in your trunk instead.

Where is the spare tire on a 1998 sable wagon?

If you have a temporary spare tire it's supposed to be in the cargo area

behind the left side ( drivers side ) interior trim panel

I believe if you have a full size spare it is under the carpet in the rear of the

cargo area

How do you remove 1997 sable speedometer sensor?

Is it a 12 valve engine or 24 valve? What do you mean by speedometer sensor? Do you mean Vehicle speed sensor? If so why do you want to change that?