Oldsmobile Achieva

i changed heater core in a 1995 Oldsmobile achive you have take your dash under neath just about the centercloser to the right also you have jack up your car theres two hose you have to take off its har get them off and on its alot of work it takes time to do it right a 1989 grand am heater core will fit it as long as it has a 3.1 Fred zeestraten

The drian plug for the AC Evaporator is either not installed properly or clogged. If the AC was not worked on recently get under the car, find the drain plug and clear the drain out (With a straw or pen) Do not use lots of force. In most cases you can take the car to a place like Tire Kingdom of Goodyear and they will just shoot up a little compressed air up the drain plug. This usually clears up the obstruction. If that doesn't work you will have to do some work on the evaporator housing

do not start vehicle but turn key to on position then off three times and on that third time leave it on the "on" position takes 10 to 15 minutes to reset the security light should stop blinking.

Listed under the hood on a placard and in your owner's manual. .060 is the gap on a 2.4 liter

The coolant temperature sensor is located below the Throtle Position senson, just to the right of the thermostat housing. If you are standing on the drivers side you would look down on the side facing (look close) you. It is a little black ob-round plug that goes into the side of the motor.

the thermostat is a water/coolant flow regulator using pressure or heat from the water/coolant to open itself and let water circulate. when the thermostat gets stuck (won't open/close normally), the car's engine will overheat, usually will get replaced (if you go to a certified mechanic) or will be removed and not replaced (if you go to an uncertified McGiber type mechanic), although this does not affect your car in a negative way.

Please resubmit your question and use a COMPLETE sentence so people will be able to tell what you are asking.

According to Chilton's car repair manual, the parking brake on the '96 achieva adjusts itself each time you put on the parking brake. When it does not work properly anymore, you have to change the entire cable. I have purchased a cable through my local GM parts dealer but have not yet put the cable on. It looks relative straight forward. A good Chilton's or Haynes repair manual tells alot. Martin Wilson (mcwilson60@knology.net)

The coolant level switch on a 95 Achieva has a sticking problem. If you tap the coolant tank near the sensor the light will go out

It really is not hard if it is the same as a 1994! I've had to change mine twice! All you do is unscrew the brake lines from the Master Cylinder, unplug the two sets of wires that are underneath the lines. Then unbolt the two bolts that are under the brake fluid reservoir. The unit should lift right up and off! Easy as 1-2-3!!

In the reservoir tank. You will see two wires running to tank and there is a float inside there. These tend to stick and tapping on side of tank will cause float to float thus turning off the light if that is your issue. These cars have a common problem with heater core leakage and head gasket leakage on the 4cyl.

mine is up behind the emergency brqake

Changing brakes is a simple task. Lift the car, remove the wheel, remove the brake shoe, replace the pad, replace the shoe, replace the wheel and lower the car.

The firing order for a 1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera 2.8 V6 is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. The number one cylinder is on the front left as you face the engine compartment.

i'm pretty sure that is your traction control system. look for a button labeled traction control, ets or something like that. then push it. Theres a rocker switch labeled "trac control" on the left of the steering column switch it one way to turn traction control on and the other way to turn it off, either way it wont harm anything. GM designed a glorious "Traction Control System", the purpose of which is unknown. What is known however, is that this system has broken on all Achievas known to be in existance. As you will notice if you follow the uninformed advice of the previous posters, activating the system causes any number of problems, many of which are dangerous. Naturally, rather than take any action to fix the problem, GM has tacitly advised dealers to merely turn the switch to off. (The fact that there even is a switch suggests that the system never worked, and indeed was never intended to.) Dealers typically then advice foolish consumers that the light "is meant to be off", which means they think Achieva drivers are among the dumbest people in America. I don't know what the "Traction Control System" is, but doesn't the light just mean you have turned the system ON and when light is off you have turned the system OFF? The traction control really only works in snow and ice. During the summer there is really no point in having it on. Without it your tires will spin. When activated it senses when the wheels starts spinning and cuts power for a second. It works the same as pumping the gas pedal. It works fine on my 96 and I wouldn't be able to get up my driveway without it. I would advise keeping the TCS off at all times, even during snow and ice. When I first started driving my 1996 Acheiva, I left the TCS on at all times. It took me about 6 months to burn out my rotors, repeatedly. I could not understand why they kept warping and getting destroyed. I have had it off for the past 3 years and I still have a good set of rotors. It is more trouble than it is worth. Drive slowly and sensibly in the rain and snow and you will be fine without it.

leftof steering column behind i/p

Probably behind the glove box or nearby

Serpentine belt and pulley diagrams at www.alldatapro.com

follow the upper radiator hose to a dome shape spout, there should be 2 bolts holding it down, remove the bolts, pull the thermostat out clean surface from the old gasket or silicone, the small lip also, put new gasket on it, then bolts and add coolant again into the radiator, if the dome of the thermostat has a nipple on it (10mm) slowly open it while the car is running to bleed the air from the coolant lines tighten it when just coolant is flowing out and no more bubbles then u are done

its very hard to get to. if you look down the firewall on the left side. you have to remove the heat shield. i wound up dropping the exhaust and removing the exhaust manifold because its mounted under the water pump which is under the manifold.

There is a clip in the front of the shifter handle, put the shifter in first gear and you can see it. pull it out with a regular screw driver. pull the shifter knob off, the the Gear select insert does come out. there are four bolts under that, then there are two inside the center compartment also, then the whole works will come out.

You may have a problem with the horn pad grounding or the horn wire grounding. Be careful though, if you have an air bag you will need to follow proper procedues so that the air bag is not grounded and fired.

he is still alive and well