Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Drain old coolant from rad thru petcock on radiator. Fill 50/50 mix of antifreeze and de-ionized water.(Tap water has is too hard) Install 50/50 mix.Start engine up.Heater on hot .Fan on Max . Watch level as it goes down in rad.When level is stable rev egine up to approx. 2000rpm to remove any air trapped in the system.Repeat.refill to 1" of top of rad. Check level again when cool (next day)

The engine is not getting fuel, or it's not getting spark.

A few of the possible reasons would be a bad fuel pump, a bad computer or simply a dirty key causing the anti theft feature to activate as happened to me more than once on my 97 Cutlass GLS.

Before you have it towed, make sure your key is clean, wait 15 minutes since the last time you tried to start it for the anti theft to reset and try again. If it still won't start you probably need the services of a mechanic.

If it is green in colour it is the standard anti freeze that you have seen and used on all vehicles. If it is red/brownish/pinkish/colour it is called "Dexcool".That is GM's long life antifreeze(5 years between change intervals) You do not want to wait this long .Have ENTIRE SYSTEM on car flushed every 2 years for proper maintenance

sometimes there is just a certain way that you have to move the start but on my cj the easyiest thing to do is to just take off the front drive shaft and the starter should come out very easy if that dont work then just move it around different ways it will come out

Raise the vehicle and look at the oil pan. You will see a bolt in the oil pan. That is the drain plug.

Under. Hood

The speedometer and gas gauge going out tat the same time indicate an electrical problem. The instrument cluster may have to be removed and the circuit board checked for loose connections or cold solder joints.

In mine, there's a 70 litres gas tank built in in the trunk. A bigger one was unfortunately not possible...

Is very symple, you were going to fast and missplaced the fireing order. each wire has it's own place from the cylinder head to the distribuitor cap. Most American made engines have a number mark on the cilynders. use an engine cleaning spray and look on the block right under the spark plug hole. once you located cylinder 1 look at the distribuitor cap for the number 1 mark. Set the first wire coneccting both marks. after that continue clockwise from the cap that is your #2 plug. Do the same thing and joint the the #2 cylinder. follow the same seccuence till you finish all the wires. if you cannot find any marks on the head or engine block, check the Chilton's repair manual. Good luck.Is very symple, you were going to fast and missplaced the fireing order. each wire has it's own place from the cylinder head to the distribuitor cap. Most American made engines have a number mark on the cilynders. use an engine cleaning spray and look on the block right under the spark plug hole. once you located cylinder 1 look at the distribuitor cap for the number 1 mark. Set the first wire coneccting both marks. after that continue clockwise from the cap that is your #2 plug. Do the same thing and joint the the #2 cylinder. follow the same seccuence till you finish all the wires. if you cannot find any marks on the head or engine block, check the Chilton's repair manual. Good luck.

1 Jack up the car and place on stands. 2 Remove wheel 3 Take off the Master Cylinder cover. 4 With a flashlight look behind the rotor. Here you will find two bolt heads. These are what hold the Caliper to the Hub assembly. 5 Extract those same bolts.(BE CAREFUL NOT TO LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE) 6 Slide off the Caliper. 7 Remove the outer pad. 8 Using a 6 inch C clamp run it into the inner pad and tighten gently until flush with the caliper. 9 Take out the inner pad. 10 Put in new inner pad. 11 Insert new outer pad. 12 Buff the rotor with some Emery cloth. 13 Reverse steps 6-1 14 Be careful at all times. When setting the new pads. 15 Drive the car around the block 10mph brake to stop , 20mph brake to stop , 30mph brake to stop 40mph brake to stop. Your done.

See http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w163-m-class/1166641-ets-bas-warning-light-fix.html

Probely but to make shure you shuld just lift it to make look cool and more styleish

Correct plug and gap for YFM350X is : NGKD8EA 0.024 to 0.028 I own one, this info is out of the Yamaha Service Manual.

a BOP turbo 350.

Loosen all the bolts on the alternator and push down on the alternator and the belt will be loose and you can take it off, to reinstall you put new belt around the water pump and crank pulleys and then put it over the alternator pulley and pull up on the alternator and tighten the bolts back up and you should have a 1/2 " play in the belt when you push down on it, if you have more than that you need to unloosen alternator bolts again and pry the alternator up with a large screwdriver and re-tighten the bolts again and recheck.

It's on the back of the engine....and hell to get to. Better off taking to a garage. I just broke mine off. Now I have to drop the oil pan and drive it back out.

The coils...or as Autozone or shops will call it, the "ESC (Electronic Spark Control) unit." Pretty spendy, even for a remanufactured one. I'd head to a junkyard to rip one out of a comparable vehicle, any Olds Delta 88 year 1988 (vin C) to 1991 would do. It's a rectangular, black box just in front of the alternator with three "humps" on it, quite easy to remove with a standard socket set, I might add.

On years 1992 and up, the ESC looks like a cylinder, and still serves the same function, but is a pain to jerry-rig in place and may not be totally compatible.

its right on the front of the motor...down twords the bottom..open ur eyes ...very obvious

Check the voltage levels. If the regulator is having a little trouble, the voltage may jump around a little. It's usually not much of a problem, but if you're very concerned, take the vehicle to an auto parts retail store that has the ability to check your charging system.

my problem on my Chevy blazer was the keyless entry

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9qlLrQ6v5E

There

Which tranny are you talking about? T.H. 350 probably, maybe its the T.H.400. I wouldn't try to rebuild one no matter which one it is. After you purchase a entire overhaul kit,tork converter(sic), and other stuff(fluid,tools,manuals), You would be far better off leaving it to a professional. Locate a transmission shop that displays the"A.T.R.A." logo on their shop, hire them to do it. Probably pay around $600.00 for either one. Hint, start off with one that still works at least you'll know the case is still good. I've had three rebuilt(2-T.H.400's,1-T.H.350), in the last ten years and never had a problem with any of them. One of them I've had it pulled apart after 60,000 mi. so they could change the tail shaft from a intermediate(Delta 88), to work in a "A" body(Cutlass). Although you could probably have used a tranny sourced from a "B" or "C" body it would put the front "U" joint beyond the cross-member. And given the way alot of people "use" their Cutlass's, especially when equipped with a 455 (T.H.400), that may prove to be a very bad idea! Incidentally, the vehicles I've done this to are 1975,76 Cutlass's, one is a "S" the other is a Supreme(brog.). I could describe in great detail the process of converting a "K" or"R" motor equipped car to a "T" code car. It's a fairly simple process as many of the parts are not model specific and cannot be identified fom original equipped vehicles. The last problem I have to solve is how to install the re-circ. line back to the fuel tank on a assembled vehicle. I'm sure I'll "get 'er done". See-ya'.

it cost hellas u might as well buy another car or sell that one.

I just removed one on a 94 Olds Regency which I assume would be very much the same. You have to pry any panels with switches/knobs out of their place first. The panels have plastic tabs along the top edges and plastic hooks along the bottom edges, so be sure to pry from the top. Once the top is away from the door, lift up on the assembly to lift the hooks up and away from the door. Everything is plastic so go slowly and in small amounts. Any panel will slip over the door handle with a little twisting.

Next, look carefully at the back side of those panels for ways to remove the connectors from the switches. They have tabs that need to be pried out just enough to slide the connectors off. Once that is done you can take a flat screw driver and begin prying the door panel away from the door. It is held on by serrated nylon "studs". They all will pry out of their sockets. Once all those are out you will have to lift the door panel up to get it loose from the top. There is an edge on the door frame that tilts outward in order to allow the top edge of the door to hang on it. This may take some wiggling and some effort to get it up off the hanger edge, but it will come off. Feed the wiring back through the door and remove the door panel.

When you get ready to replace the door panel, just reverse the procedure, confirming that any electrical connectors are replaced and secure. Make sure that all of the nylon "studs" are in place in the door panel. Also make sure that as you are lining up the door panel to replace it, to look behind the panel to assure that all the nylon "studs" are lined up to pop back into their original holes. Once you do this you can begin pounding the front side of the panel with the heel of your hand to press the nylon studs back into place. That should do it.

1 - 8 - 4 - 3 - 6 - 5 - 7 - 2 Look at the 8th " character " of your VIN ( VIN " Y " and " 9 " - 307 cubic inch - distributor rotor turns COUNTERCLOCKWISE ) ( VIN " H " - 305 cubic inch - distributor rotor turns CLOCKWISE ) The engine cylinders / spark plug locations are numbered : firewall 8 - 7 6 - 5 4 - 3 2 - 1 front ( On VIN " Y " and " 9 " the # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the REAR and slightly towards the drivers side ) ( On VIN " H " the # 1 position on the distributor cap faces to the FRONT and slightly towards the drivers side ) according to my Chilton auto repair manual