Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

In most cases the bearings wear out and it begins to leak coolant out the small "weep" hole located near the lower end of the pump. With the engine off and the keys in your pocket grab the fan and try to wiggle it side to side, if you have play, it's shot.

The front transfer case has a pneumatic actuator that can go bad, so the four wheel drive does not engage. This is one type of problem that can occur. I'm sure there are others.

It is located on the rear of the motor, under the exhaust manifold. Be careful when taking it out, they have been known to break off in the hole, and then become a real pain to finish the repair..

Remove the seat Remove the interior panels covering the door post Pull as much carpet away from door post Remove seat belt restraint Use a gas torch to burn off the mounts holding the catch to the post CAUTION: Keep a water hose or fire extinguisher next to you. The water hose is best May need to cut open a portion of the door post to gain better access for the torch to be effective Sparks from cutting will burn the carpet. Remove carpet or provide a protective barrier Be careful while cutting to not burn any wiring Set torch flame correctly. Focus on what needs cutting Be care not to burn through door post Lots of heat, sparks and smoke will be produced Paint on door post will burn. It's hidden by the door so a quick spray can of paint will make it look brand new Buy the door catch when purchasing the new or used door latch

GOOD LUCK!

I just finished opening a 1998 Honda Civic left front door that was in the shut position and would not open. I pulled several suggestions and I believe have a better one.

1 - Just put the seat in full recline, it will give you a working padded inside surface.

2 - Carefully lift interior panel and slide the rubber glass trim out.

3 - Using a panel remover (screwdriver type instrument, bent with a v cut in center) to lift the panel up, then using a metal putty knife let the metal tab slip behind the door window metal frame.

4 - Unscrews the screws holding the arm rest and speakers

5 - Use the panel remover to pull pull the panel out

6 - Using a drummel or Roto tool with the 18 inch extension and a small drummel grinding wheel, grind off the two top heads holding the metal outside cover. Then using a long narrow good chisel get between the outside metal and striker plastic housing and separate it back. Finally, use the small grinder to cut away at the narrow points the top part of the outside metal striker plate.

7. Use a metal / plastic cutting drill bit (type used to cut Formica or aluminum) drill the plastic away from the rest of two top screws which hold the unit to the door, (look at passenger door to see position. Once the screws are free you can use the chisel to pry away the one remaining screw on bottom of latch.

8. Unscrew the 10 mm bolt holding the window track to pull the entire unit out from the bottom opening, carefully turning the unit to remove the electronic actuator (which in this case works fine).

The entire process took about three hours, it was like working as a dentist. The window until the track bolt was loosened was open so I could work from the outside of the door. Without the 18" rotary extension there was no way to get a tool in such a close area. It was funny for once the latch broke free, (we were on the outside pushing against the door for leverage, the interior door opening warning buzzer sounded and we thought it was the cell phone, when we realized what it was we stepped back the door just opened.

Once opened we removed the rest of the door panel.

I was afraid to use a used latch (spring had broken) so I have opted for a new OEM which from Honda is $125.00. No parts house listed or had the latch, only the actuator. Being in Florida the heat from the sun and being parked all day with the left door to it and my daughter, the social worker getting in and out a dozen times a day, the latch plastic went from a soap stone texture to a hard brittle plastic that with a few taps from a hammer on the chisel broke apart easily.

The entire process is 5 hours from start to finish, (not counting waiting for new latch to arrive. use a tie down strap around the seat and the inside frame to keep the door shut in the meantime. Part came in within 24 hours. I also replaced the rod attachment ends for another $6.00.

First thing I would do if its leaking is to try to put some stop leak in it. And if that fails then you have to replace it. NOTE: Be careful when removing panels so you won

There seems to be a safety switch system, the brakes must be applied to release the transmission from park.

Don't know location of linkage, if mechanical or electrical. Assembly could be in transmission of console.

If no joy, then check wiring and connectors. Do brake lights work - then brake switch probably ok.

follow the upper radiator hose

yes if you have the Oldsmobile motor mounts.

If you are asking if engine parts will interchange....Absolutely not.

is your tranny fluid up . sometimes if you have a leak detected under car you can tighten up the boltds without worriing about costly repair bill. They do vibrate loose. Or call a n.a.p.a. store or autozone sometimes they can scan the codes to sell you the part and most likely it will be a bolt on electrical part. Check fluid first ( read dipstick)

Check the water pump. ---- Also check the radiator it sounds like it's plugged and there is now flow of coolant.--- ( circulation ) Check for a heater flow valve in the heater hose they can rust shut easily it is a valve in the heater hose that opens when you turn on the heat and shuts when its not in use, if not then probably the core is plugged a radiator flush might help.

I don't know that there is really any set replacement time for these. If you're smelling gas fumes and have ruled out everything else, the vapor canister could be the cause. These can also be "rebuilt". You can empty out and replace the charcoal and put a new filter in the bottom of it. That's pretty much it.

Most likely lack of fuel, sounds dumb, but make sure there is gas in it, step 2: if sometimes it will start then die, this means the fuel filter is most likely plugged, debris will settle to the bottom of the filter then when fuel starts flowing it will re-pack and clog the passage way. could be a fuel pump, take the fuel line off of the filter under the hood and hold it over a large cup or bucket, turn the key on or even turn it over and see if it pumps out fuel, this will tell you if its working or not. depending what car it is, could be a distributor cap out of adjustment, dirty or malfunctioning which is not allowing it to fire.

You don't bypass it, you replace it. It doesn't cost that much

Right hand Side , under the Light switch Knob belowe ,for Left Hand Drive Cars it is the Opposite Side .

It seems that they most problems with the 93' Oldsmobile cutlass supreme would be the engine and the break. Those seem to go out the most on this car.

mine is under the hood in the fuse box on the drivers side

jack up the car turn the wheel to acess the brake bolts torx t-50 unbolt slip outer pad out take a c clamp to push back the cylinder til flush un srew put in new pads bolt backin repete otherside . bleed the rigt side frist have frend pump brake open valve with 10mm wranch close after lickwood cums out repete outher side thanx i spell good not!!!!!

As long as the bolt pattern is the same and the spacing is the same (4.75") you can swap rims. If you have 14" steel rims you can put 15 or 16" Aluminum rims on but do all 4 other wise the speedo will be off. Also front wheel drive wheels are not the same as rear wheel drive. So put the right ones on.

On the passengers side of the car under the hood. There is a black reservoir near the top of the engine nearly center of the aluminum intake manifold, the cap on the reservoir should be labeled "Power Steering Fluid"

ITS UNDER THE DASHBOARD ON THE DRIVERS SIDE. YES YOU HAVE TO STAND ON YOUR HEAD TO SEE IT.

If the rest of your windows are working fine, then the fuses are "OK." You will need to then check the motor, as "both" switches on the doors couldn't both be "bad." I am sure you have tried them. To replace a motor is relatively cheap (around $30-35) and easy to replace if you know what to do. The rivets confuse even the best person trying to replace a motor. The fastest way is to grind them off once you take off the door panel. You have 5 machine screws, a large machine screw, and a pin (9/32) hex head just inside the middle of the panel to take out before the panel will come off after you take out the switch panel. On each side of the switches use a flat screwdriver to pop out this panel and then pop out the connector to the switches. Inside is the large machine screw. Where the handle is, is the 9/32 hexhead to take out too. When you get a new motor they supply the new rivets to mount the motor.

wheel bolt patern is4 3/4 on both 14 and 15 inch wheel

apparently one of the window tracks is bad in the door.

find the tensioner pulley ( I think it is the one second from top towards rear of motor). take your 3/8" drive ratchet attach to pulley lift up and remove belt. diagram of belt order should be on the fan guard.