Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

the posted mpg on 1997 olds cutlass supreme : 3.1L is 18 city and 26 hwy and in a 3.4L is 15 city and 24 hwy. you can find all auto fuel economy at this web site: www.fueleconomy.gov. i find it great when used auto and motorcycle shopping. the posted mpg on 1997 olds cutlass supreme : 3.1L is 18 city and 26 hwy and in a 3.4L is 15 city and 24 hwy. you can find all auto fuel economy at this web site: www.fueleconomy.gov. i find it great when used auto and motorcycle shopping.

If it's fuel injected it's in the gas tank and if it's carburated it's on the engine.

All Jeep CJ's are 5 on 5½".

You also need to clean the "passages". EGR valve puts exhaust gas back into the engine intake under less than full power situations. When that happens exhaust deposits build up on the walls of the passages. Replacing the EGR valve was only half the repair, you also need to clean it out.

There is a tube from under the EGR valve to the exhaust manifold. That is probably blocked.

Try under the dash, just to the right of the steering column. GM started "hiding" them there in the 80s.

Look for performance parts that are usually listed as being for 305/350 truck engines. First thing I would do is upgrade the exhaust system - headers, hi flo cat,and a cat back exhaust.Stock headers (exhaust manifolds) are terrible.

Second upgrade the intake/air flow/fuel system.Stock breather assembly is terrible, and a "cold air kit" is a good idea. Hi flow throttle body (if fuel injected) which can be had from Holley or upgrade your stock one (CFM technologies & Turbo City). On Carburated engines - Holley makes good carbs. Intake manifold - dual plane from holley, edelbrock or GM perf parts for either FI or carb'ed engines.

Stock fuel pressure (FI cars) is poor so upgrade the stock fuel pump.An adjustable fuel pressure regulator is a good idea - necessary after some point, the more mods you do and bigger injectors are the same way.

After those things - camshaft and cylinder heads are the next area to look at.Stay moderate on the cam "size" (lift) - "big cam" is not always best. Edelbrock makes a good one for street use.

GM Vortec heads are the cheapest "performance " heads but the combustion chamber size - 64cc -will kill the compresssionon a 305.Vortecs like compression in the 9.4 to 9.8 range. Mill the heads to about 58cc using stock 305 "dished" pistons - 60cc or so with flat top pistons.

. Don't forget a lower (higher number) gear in the rear end.You probably should do some mods to the transmission (auto) if you want it to survive.Mucho Info is available on 3rd gen.org, Chevy Hi performane,Hi tech performance,Hi perf - truck web sites.Start googling and read, read, read.On a FI 305 - 265/280 HP is about what you'll get without spending a LOT of $$ - and if staying emisions legal.

300 HP and up?Then the best idea is to go up to a 350.Most of the parts you use on a 305 can be used on a 350. Some 305 engines have been made to make 400HP (carb not FI) and more.But the cost is usually way high and they are not emissions legal.Maybe not a good street engine at that level of HP.Lot of people "look down" on the 305 - I say if you've all ready got a good 305 - use it. They can be good performers for not a whole lot of cash.Even cheaper if you can do your own work.Learn and read - lot of info available - not all good - but most of it is.

go to your local auto parts store and ask for it.

same as on all disc break pad changes, but you must have special tool to depress caliper. a c clamp will not work. must have tool to put onto 3/8 in. drive socket and turn clockwise and this will depress caliper. replace pads, bleed and this was the most challenging part of the job.

it all depends on the car it usxually is around 20 to 25 miles per gallon but you should try testing it yourself unless your stupidand don't know how

If there is any cable showing at the handle just pull on it with a pair of pliers. You can probably take the grill out and get to the cable there. grab a pair of little vice grips get it on the wire keep em there till u get it fixed

Yes. and it will cost around $130.00 at the parts store. it also requires alot of skill to replace. it is soldered in and the alternator brushes are also involved. They need to be pinned out of the way to reinstall. Unless you are equipped and have a good working knowledge of alternators you will be better off purchasing a quality rebuilt. a quality rebuilt will cost you around $200.00

There is basically no difference. 305 is a Chevy engine and the 307 is a Cadillac engine. They are both the same and assembled by same company

Well, on the other hand, it depends on how you look at it. The 305 Chevy is a 265 stroked with a 350 crank. The 307 Chevy is a 283 stroked with a 327 crank.

In theory, the 305 should produce it's best torque at a lower rpm than the 307. However, the 307 should be able to rev higher and produce a higher peak horsepower. Kinda depends on what you need it for.

There is also a 307 produced by Oldsmobile that is a V8 engine. It shares no other commonalities with a small block Chevy.

Usually because the switch that controls the light is stuck in the 'on'position. easily replaced w/ aftermarket switch from your local NAPA store.

Hyundai have added a trick to starting the engine - you need to have the clutch pedal in regardless of whether or not the car is in gear. Unless the clutch is in, the engine won't fire.

It depends on the year of your car.

but in general, rims from 14-15 to 20" will probably fit your car.

Standing in front of the vehicle looking at the the coil packs, there are three of them. From left to right, the first coil pack is 1 & 4, the second coil pack is 6 & 3, and the third coil pack is 2 & 5. Now still standing in front of the engine, the first three cylinders in front of the radiator are 2,4 & 6 and the last three near the firewall are 1,3 & 5. The firing order is 1,2,3,4,5,6 if it is a 2.8 or 3.1. What you did not say is what engine it has (2.8 VIN "W" or 3.1 VIN "T") and if it is a Cutlass Supreme or Ciera or what Cutlass.

Pull off the wood grain trim bezzel then there are 4 7mm screws. Slide radio out and disconnect 3 wire plugs.

pull up on the hood itself and to the left of the ornament under the hood there is a lever push it sideways and your in!

Fig. 4: 1970-74 Oldsmobile-built 350, 455 V8. Engine firing order: 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Distributor rotation: Counter-clockwise

there are two or three capped nuts on the inside of the door the whole black strip from the window to the top of the door is replaced

Take it to Best Buy and have them switch out the speakers. That's what I did.

under the steering column/dash on the right look for a (about 5" x 5") panel held on with a screw or bolt, this covers the fuse box, very hard to see without flashlight (for me at least lol)

According to one of Fords websites :

For a 1992 Mercury Topaz , 2.3 litre four cylinder engine :

( the spark plugs are gapped at .054 inch )

In most cases the bearings wear out and it begins to leak coolant out the small "weep" hole located near the lower end of the pump. With the engine off and the keys in your pocket grab the fan and try to wiggle it side to side, if you have play, it's shot.

assuming you are talking about the key lock cylinder (the place where you put in your key and start your car)

and assuming it is the same as my 1995 Oldsmobile cutless supreme, which i did this one because i lost my key.

disconnnect battery (to aviod airbag deployment)

take off front cover of steering wheel ( four screws on it, which are removed from behind)

disconnect horn and airbag (horn will be a wire that you push and turn, air bag will be a yellow wire with a small connector)

remove airbag module

there will be a small metal ring like object (like the ring on your key chain) but will have two tiny wholes in the end, there is a special wrench to take this off, but i used two pairs of plyers and multiple screwdrivers (its not fun) and eventually i just cut the thing off and replaced it

again, its small, your thumb could fit in the middle.

this "ring" is what keeps the airbag module in place. the airbag module is plastic, don't break it, or you will wish you didnt 300 for a new one...

carefully pull out the airbag module (plastic black roundish thing the air bag connector passes through the end of it. i think if i remember right it has another little connector at the end)

you will need a "lock plate compressor" tool

it pushes in the lock plate (the cog/gear looking thing that locks your sterring wheel in place) you can rent/buy one for about 20$, it looks kinda like a tuning fork.

then remove another little ring, this one is even more difficulty than the other to remove, it easily took me 3hours. the technique i used was 2 screw drivers, and got it to slide slowly back up the center of the steering column. i stuck one in from the top, and then the other beside it, prying counter-clockwise.

i think you also have to take off your "blinker rod" but that is two screws

when you buy a new lock cylander it will have these directions in the box.

this may not be everything, but is all i can remember.