Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme

Yes, you have an obligation to do the very best for your family. They need you.

Check engine water temp with a thermometer -- Replace temperature sending unit

Maybe. That depends on the type of transmission in your car at the time. The 350 rocket that is in your car now most likely was mated to a TH-350 tranny that, according to popular belief, is not strong enough to hold up against the 455's greater torque. The Oldsmobile Cutlass 442, Club Sport, and Holiday Coupe models of the same year came with the 455 mated to a TH-400. That seems to be the way to go if you dont like the 350 rocket you have allready.

Around 180 to 190 degrees fahrenheit.

19,330 of which 2,933 were convertibles,1,688 club coupes,and 14,709 hardtop coupes (holiday).

Fuel pump is in tank probably have to drop the tank out of car to replace.

Newer cars don't have grease fittings anymore, the ball joints are a sealed unit.

Usually in housing at engine end of top radiator hose

1984 brogham98

You dont.

The At modulator valve is located on the side of the transmission between the transmission tunnel. you may have to lower transmission to get to it.

Disconnect the car battery's negative cable to prevent damage, shorts, etc. To be safe, block the rear wheels so that the car will not roll back or forward while you're working. Don't block the front wheels because you'll be turning the steering wheel later on.

Note: to help yourself throughout this job, you may need to raise or lower ("tilt") the steering column to make it easier to undo and attach pieces. I don't know if any L-series Saturns have non-tilting steering columns.

Using proper size socket and Torx drivers, remove the 3 screws (the center screw takes the socket and the two outer screws take the Torx drivers) that are on the underneath side of the cover that encloses the turn-signal/headlight switch (and the ignition switch on the other side, as well as other fun stuff associated w/ the steering column!). Unsnap the top half of this two-piece cover from the bottom by wiggling it, etc till the pieces separate. If your hands are big enough, you can grab the bottom with one hand and the top with the other (like the steering column is a neck and you're trying to strangle it! - see, humor, too!) and pull in opposite directions while you squeeze the top part from the sides. The "beauty ring" that goes around the ignition switch will pop out, too, when the two pieces separate and expose all of the stuff.

Unplug the wiring plug assembly from the body of the switch - there's a locking tab to press out of the way. There are two little tabs of plastic on the left side of the headlight/turn signal switch itself - they're on the end nearer to the steering wheel itself - one is on top and one on the bottom. Squeeze the two tabs toward each other (your left hand works perfectly for this job)and rock/jiggle the switch. The whole switch assembly and turn signal "arm" come out as a unit towards the left, or away from the steering column. If it seems jammed, wiggle the tabs a little from side to side (or up and down) while pulling on the turn signal "arm." (If you grab this arm with the three other fingers and your palm on the hand you're squeezing the tabs with, you'll have some leverage to help you wiggle if need be.) Mine took a little persuasion of this type to get mine out, by the way.

Install the new assembly by sliding it into place (there are guides on the switch that slide into grooves in the black plastic backing "plate" that the switch snaps into) and pressing till you hear the little tabs lock it into place. Connect the wiring plug. After you're sure that everything is attached at this point, reconnect the battery cable and make sure that everything works. Don't forget to test the turn signals as far as making sure that the turn signal "cancels" - you might want to start the car, signal a left turn, turn the wheel a revolution to the left, then turn it back towards the "neutral" position to make sure that the turn signal arm moves back to the middle position and the turn signal indicator on the dash stops flashing. Do the same for the right side, but obviously, you'll fake a turn to the right and then go back left to "neutral" to check for canceling, etc. While you're at it, make sure that the headlights, parking lamps, highlights and day running lights are working, as well as making sure that the indicators on the dash are working correctly, too.

Turn the car off, and reassemble the two cover halves together (it's best to attach the bottom one first, tightening the 3 screws only partially till you've got the top attached). Also, make sure that the foam rubber "boot" on the arm stays inside of the cover halves as you assemble them. Note that there are little "posts" on one half of this cover that fit matching holes on the other part - you need to plug these together correctly - and the cover will snap back together and the gap between the two halves will be completely gone. Now snap the ring around the ignition switch into its proper place - note that it's "keyed" so that it'll have the positions correctly oriented with respect to OFF ACC ON START, or whatever.

After these are all in place, tighten up the 3 screws on the bottom.

Just to be sure, make sure everything still works AFTER you've done the above. This includes making sure that the column still adjusts up and down as before, and that the steering wheel will turn freely from lock to lock (you'll need to start the car to do this last thing). When you're done, turn the car off, remove the keys and pull the blocks out from the rear wheels.

The whole job takes maybe 20 minutes and it saved ME $160 in labor! This was done in August, 06 and the switch cost less than $50.

************SHORT VERSION== Go to an authorized dealer. Tell them what you want to do. Ask them if they have a computer or MicroFiche exploded diagram of the assembly you will be taking apart. Ask if they can print out any relevant pictures or information, even if there's a small fee. If someone is there who can point to the diagram and walk you thru what's involved, it will be much easier. Don't get sidetracked with extraneous knowledge; all you're doing is this one task-stick to specifics. Take notes if need be. Find out what special fasteners and related removal tools are involved, and if anything, like rivets, need to be destroyed for removal: you'll need to have replacements for re-assembly. Just remember: it was broke when you tried to fix it; it can be broke if you still end up having to take it to the dealer to have THEM fix it!

it sounds like a steady bearing on the drive train or pssibly your tourque converter is going bad

0.054

5x115

theres a sensor on the nozzle of the gas filler, so sometimes when you have it in to far or tilted a certain way it cuts off as if it was "overfilling". happens to me too. doesnt have anything to do with your car.

Probably Torx either T45 or T47 Allen TW 12B if its anything like the Luminas iv'e worked on previously it will be a T60 star bit but good luck most kits only go up to T55 your best bet would be to go to autozone or something and buy one seperately or atleats easier

First you remove the lower back seat, and the bolts that secure the upper will be exposed. Remove them and lift out upper back seat.

A repair manual is a must. Check your local autoparts or library for a detailed explanation. Brakes keep people alive so if you're unsure, take it somewhere for safety's sake. Mine has disc brakes front and rear. The rear pads are more difficult to replace in my opinion so I will describe this in more detail. I would not buy the best grade for the rears since they only do 25 percent of the work. I would opt for the best I can afford for the front, however. The calipers have to be removed since they straddle the brake rotors and house the brake pads. Mine are held on by 18mm bolts. The calipers need to be suspended by tying them up to something solid to ease pressure on the rubber brake line once the calipers are removed. A coat hangar works well. Put a lug nut back on to keep the rotor rigid. The old pads may just fall out on the rears. Examine the rotor- run a fingernail over the braking surfaces. It should be fairly smoothe. If your car's brake pads were severely worn and making a screeching sound, the rotor may have to be replaced (in pairs). This is easily done and they are not expensive. If you are installing a new rotor, clean it to remove any oils, including fingerprints. Now, the caliper's piston must be completely pushed back into the caliper to make room for the new pads so they can fit over the rotor. I use a 6" C clamp and an old brake pad to protect the piston. I also remove the brake master cylinder cap to allow the fluid to rise. Screw the clamp and push the piston until it cannot go further. Try to keep the axis of the C clamp screw straight on the piston. Now, using some long needlenose pliers or something similar screw the piston clockwise into the housing. Once this is completed, the piston needs to be rotated so the indentions in the piston align with the nipples on the back of the brake pad. They fit into each other. The pad with the metal tang goess on the outside half. I strongly recommend a service manual or a qualified service technician for brake work. Don't rely on this.

first unplug fuse for the airpump , second unplug fuse for the ignition switch, both should be under the hood in a box labelled "fuses" opposite of battery location, third disconnect battery, now you can start to dissassemble the steering and steering lock assembly, first remove four star bit screws from behind the steering wheel holding the airbag on . then pull the airbag out from the steering wheel , detach the two piece plug from behind and set the bag aside, now get your steering wheel puller kit out and remove the wheel. next you'll see a plastic air bag mechanism, it has a ring pin holding it back use the correct pliers to remove the pin and carefully slide the part off the steering shaft,: warning: do not tamper with the wiring for this device it can stay connected next the steering lock has a spring behind it and a ring pin in front use the correct tools to remove pin and slide the lock and the backing piece from the steering shaft , put your key in the ignition and switch to on position, now remove 3 mounting screws from blinker switch hub and remove the screw holding the switch arm together, next remove white plastic key alarm terminal from in front of locking screw for ignition switch. then remove locking screw and pull switch out, and then put it all back together again.

Replace the wiring that was burnt.

Well I have just gotten over this problem in my cavalier recently so my advice is to look at the engine at night time in dim light where the starter is l;ocated. If you see smoke or a spark on cables around the starter that is most likely the problem. If a new starter wont fix it then a new battery is my next guess. Well I have just gotten over this problem in my cavalier recently so my advice is to look at the engine at night time in dim light where the starter is l;ocated. If you see smoke or a spark on cables around the starter that is most likely the problem. If a new starter wont fix it then a new battery is my next guess.

You can find a detailed vacuum hose schematic for a 1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme in the car's owner's manual. You can also check with local auto stores.