Pontiac Sunbird

A blown power window fuse is the most common reason for the power windows not to go down. The fuse can be found in the fuse box. The location of the fuse can be found on the inside cover of the fuse box.

The 1991 Pontiac turn signal flasher relay switch can be found beneath the drivers side dashboard. The turn signal flasher relay switch will be above the gas pedal.

It's under the steering wheel column, left side. It's a #20 or 25 fuse, in middle left side.

I own a 1989 Sunbird GT turbo and the vacuume line diagram is located under the hood on the top left corner.

My pa says follow the throttle cable and you will find a nut that turns to adjust the idle. You can do this when the car is running, making it easier to see how much adjustment it needs. He says a half turn or full turn either way will usually do the trick. I need to find a diagram or picture for the throttle cable but hope that helps a little

Most thermostats are located in the thermostat housing which is at the lower end of the large top radiator hose.

if im not mistaken..it is behind the timing cover..it runs off the timing belt You are correct. It is the belt tensioner for your timing belt and a pain to release to release the tension and also not the easiest to replace.

Under the Dashboard on the Drivers Side.

The General Motors 3100 family of after 1996 underwent a changeover to interference designs. This standardized GM powertrains design across multiple platforms such as the 3400 and 3500.

Never ask this questin again OK you STUPID AND IDIOT

haha! its a pain in the a#%! you need really small hands for one,i m trying to do the same on my 91 3.1L, this is what i was told and have done and where i m at!!Jack ur car up, block and stand it (obv.)when u go under go to the back of the oil pan, not tranny, dble check cause there is a very similar sensor in same area.so at the back of the OIL pan there is 2 wires in one loom going to a little black unit about the size of a nickel, an 8mm longstem wrench would b advisable, or some crazy ext. on a socket, very tight and difficult. one nut, disconnect the terminal, sensor should pull out!? mine wont, dont pry to hard at all or it will break!!!trust me!!!dont no what is up with mine but they said it should just pull out, now remember this is a magnatized unit so there will b some resistance, call a local garage, or parts suppliers, they r usually more than willing to help, and usually r pretty good at that! hope this helps!! good luck!!hope u getr dun!!plugz! hey!got mine out with a pair of 14 inch pliers, wiggle and pull slowly,a heated screwdriver pushed thru the plastic end also works well i was told!good luck, keep us posted!!

Use Dextron III ATF, but be sure not to overfill the tranny.

there should be 2 hoses going into that firewall for the heater core, it is probably bad. find the 2 hoses and connect them together until you can repair the heater core, at least it will be driveable. one end of the hose attaches to where the top radiator hose connects to the motor, and the other end is on the water pump towards the bottom of the opposite side.

That's in your owners manual, but a general rule of thumb is 25,000 miles. Most people wait until it snaps!

NO.

possibly your motor mounts. i had the same issue with my old sunbird

On the '92 sunblrd SE the power for the lights to from fuse to headlight switch to dimmer switch to bulb, no relay involved.

Pull the steering wheel

Remove the steering wheel lock by compressing it and removing the small metal ring that holds it in place.

Remove the screw that holds the bracket from the turn signal switch to the turn signal lever.

Remove the screw that holds the knob on for the 4 way flashers.

Remove the 3 screws that hold the turn signal switch and carefully slide the switch out.

Remove the 2 screws that hold the key lock into the column and slide it out.

There are two heavy steel straps that support the tank. I *think* (it's been a few years since I did one) that you may have to drop the exhaust a bit to let the tank clear. The straps have one big bolt each, once those are out the tank will come down (and you'll get a face full of dirt and crap falling off the top of the tank, if you're under it). There are flexible, clamped fuel lines (pressure, return and vent, if I remember right) plus the wiring for the pump; all this has to be disconnected once the tank is lowered but before you pull the tank completely out. If you're replacing the fuel sender or pump (the only reason to pull a tank 99% of the time), CLEAN off the top of the pump assembly (or all the dirt will fall into the tank when you remove the pump) and rotate the circular retaining ring by ALTERNATELY tapping the tabs on opposing sides of it with a screwdriver and hammer until it releases the plate that has all the feed lines and wires going into it. That's actually the top of the pump/sender assembly. Remove the assembly carefully. Don't forget to inspect and/or replace the big rubber O-ring underneath when you put it back together. Getting the tank re-aligned and up into place can be a pain, especially when there's just one of you lifting, positioning and balancing the tank and trying to start the strap bolts all at the same time - be patient. Good luck!!

the evaporator for the ac is pluged with dirt you need to remove the heater moter and reach into the tunnel to the face of the evaporator and remove any dirt and debrei from the face of the evap you coud use a wire brush to clean the fins be gental if your ac still works you do not want to damage it

The best way to see a diagram is to purchase a Repair Manual regarding the year in question or just view the Engine bay, most likely from under the Vehicle, which is the approach needed for Starter remove/replace.

The Starter is located on the Right side of the Engine and since the Engine is turned to the Right, the starter is now in a less lovely location.

Most Starter locations on most vehicles are designed to be a hassle even for experienced Wrenches and often times incorporate different Head size Bolts with of course different Lengths.

If one is not very Mechanically inclined, the EASIEST WAY is to have someone else do the deal.

It's located behind the glove box. First, remove the negative battery cable from the battery. Remove the glove box door. There are four 10mm nuts that mount the ECM to a plastic bracket....one at each corner. Remove these. Pull the ECM out and unplug it. There is a cover plate on the ECM mounted with two screws. Remove these screws and remove the plate. The PROM chip is mounted here and you'll want to reuse it. Most rebuilt ECMs will not come with this chip. Also, each chip is programmed for the particular car it goes in. With or without air, auto or manual....etc. Install the chip in the new ECM and the rest is reverse procedure.

IS THE FUSE IN IT BLOWN? If not get a battery and a test light. You will probably have to cut the fuseable link out. touch one wire end to the battery and make a circuit with it, if the test light doesn't light up and the fuse isn't blown it is bad

Hood release cable has connector nuts on both ends of the cable. Loosen the connector nuts. Remove the cable retainers. The cable will come off and can be replaced with a new hood release cable.

Try taking your positive battery cable off for 3mins or taking out the ecm fuse in the fuse box for 30 seconds.