Pontiac Trans Am

Bad selector? vacuum leak at engine or vacuum motors under dash

About 310-325ft/lbs if its a stock 400.

The 81 was the first year for the ECM. I'm not 100% sure, but as with most GM cars, it should install behind the front kick panel on the passenger side of the car.

any parts store will have books with belt routing diagrams also check a repair manual like Chilton's

It is located in the fuse box. It's a small steel "box" the length of the glass fuse. It's simply a breaker type unit that will disconnect the power to the window when the motor draws too much amperage. Once it cools it will close again allowing power back to the motor.

The Rebel has a single headlight case with a lens in front and a dual filament bulb. When you look a the headlight housing, you will see two holes with Phillips head screws inside recessed tunnels. Don't mess with these screws. They control the "up and down" and "side to side" "aim" of the headlight. If you start messing with these tiny screws, you will throw the beam adjustment out of wack. And you may loosen the internal housing for the entire lens. I speak from personal experience on this. What you need to do is locate the two chrome hex bolt heads that are on the lower part of the headlight housing. On my 2005 Rebel, they are located a the five and seven o'clock positions. With a 5/16" box wrench, unscrew the hex heads. Try to avoid the temptation to use an adjustable wrench. Such wrenches have the disgusting habit of lurching off the bolt heads at the most inappropriate times. The adjustable wrench then leaves a long scratch mark on your chrome. If you don't have a 5/16" box wrench, go buy one. They aren't expensive, and your chrome will thank you. After you remove the bolts, lay each one on the side of the front tire corresponding to the side it goes back in. Then gently worry the outer housing off. Be gentle because you don't want to break the wiring from the bulb to the bike itself. When you have the headlight loosened, firmly pull the wire "plug" from the center of the headlight assembly. Next, remove the rubber cover that surrounds the area where the bulb is. Once the rubber is removed, you can access the bulb itself. There is a wire stay that holds the bulb in place. Looking at the sub assembly, you will see that the wire is a wiggly "c" shape. The middle of the wire rotates under a Phillips head screw on the left. One end of the wire is fixed and the other is held in place by tension and friction. Put on that end, and rotate this retaining wire away from the bulb. Remove the old bulb. Take out the new bulb. I advise ou to keep your fingers off the glass of the bulb because the oils on your fighter may shorten the life of the bulb. This is just my theory, but it is based on experience with quartz halogen bulbs in outdoor lighting. The bulb assembly has three tabs that neatly fit into three slots on the housing. This system makes it impossible to put the bulb in upside down. Once the bulb is in the housing, pivot the retaining wire back down over everything. Next, reattach the rubber cover. Note that the word "top" appears on the section of the rubber cover that needs to go on the "top." To determine which end is the top, look at the writing on the outside of the lens. That will allow you to orient the "top." Reconnect the plug to the bulb and you are almost done. Replace the housing in the headlight frame and retighten the two chrome hex heads. With luck, the headlight is still aimed at the proper distance ahead of the bike. Check this out in a darkened garage.

Completely disassemble the engine, thoroughly clean the block and all components. If the cylinders show signs of wear (ANY measurable taper) bore the cylinders and replace the pistons. Recondition the rods! If the crankshaft has been damaged ALL OF the rods must be either replaced or reconditioned. Replace all of the rod and main bearings. Inspect the camshaft and lifters for damage or wear and replace if necessary. The prudent mechanic replaces ALL even if only one shows signs of wear. Also, the prudent mechanic always reconditions the head every time the engine is apart. Reassemble the engine using new gaskets, oil pump and timing chain/gear as necessary. Never plan on an engine teardown that will only replace a single component, especially the crankshaft. Typically an engine suffers a great amount of damage when a major component, like the crankshaft, is damaged. If there is ANY indication of heating outside of the normal range, you may have slighly warped the block and you'll need to "align bore" it for the new crankshaft. This is not a good place to plan on an inexpensive repair.

Take it to a certified mechanic and pay him $300.

The engine control computer has detected a problem. The kind of problem can be found out only when the computer is put into diagnostic mode by someone who knows how to do this. Get the vehicle inspected by a mechanic who has the documentation for your model (or go to an authrorised Toyota dealer's service centre) ASAP as the problem could be serious and lead to engine damage if not repaird. Quite often, however, it's just a failed O2 (oxygen) sensor.

probably the power brakes if you have them and the vaccum modulator on the tranny.

There are FOUR What engine LT1? There should be one in each pipe before the cats and one after each on the V8! The two upstream moniter the engine and the downstreams moniter the efficiency of the catalytic coverter They MUST be replaced in pairs or the computer will say there is still a problem Oh yeah They are expensive $60 - $100 each Make sure the sensor is really the problem before replacing

The dash lights and the tail lights are on the same fuse. In all probability, you have a short circuit in the tail light wiring.

You don't. If you are having an issue with idling check the IAC Valve.

Loook in your owners manual, I use syntheric blend 20w50

The "WS.6 Package" started in 1978 and slowly faded away. I don't know too much about the older models, but the WS.6 Package came back in 1996-2002. It added Ram Air, 17" rims with 275 wide tires, and a more aggressive suspension setup. The 96-97 WS.6 equipped vehicles had 305hp vs the regular 285hp. For 98-00 WS.6 equipped vehicles, 320hp vs 305hp for the regular models. For 01-02 WS.6 equipped vehicles, they had 325hp compared to 310hp for the regular models. Also, the 98-02 LS1 V8 models were under-rated by GM, they were advertised as having 305-325hp, but it's more closer to 350hp. The WS.6 package doesn't necessarily mean that the car is faster than a regular V8 model, as all the V8 equipped vehicles dyno the same numbers. It is more of a suspension/appearance package than anything.

Someone gets something for you that you want.

This might sound stupid but it worked for me.All i did was pull straight down towards the dash and it came off then i used a glue remover (solvent worked) and everything was good.

there is no fuse. for the high speed you have to have a working A/C motor

Check to see if you are getting power to it with A/C or defroster on

Try Hot wiring the motor to see if it is defective

Check fuse and relay

Check temperature sensor switch XXXXXXXXXXXXXX ANSWER XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX The temperature sensor works the light or gauge. The cooling fan switch works the cooling fan. If, when the air conditioner is "ON," the fan works then there is no need to hot wire it. If the coolant is low in the radiator and isn't contacting the switch, then the fan will not work. Open the radiator cap and be sure the coolant is full. You can have a full recovery tank and a low radiator and the coolant will not transfer.

Could be weak battery or starter is getting tired and drawing excessive amperage Hey Darwin==There isn't enough amperage reaching the starter. Replace both battery cables and make sure there is a good ground between the engine and the body. This ground is very inportant. GoodluckJoe

On many GM vehicles it is: turn key to ON (do not start), push accelerator to the floor 3 times. I hope this helps you. Mark on my 1999 you turn key to on(do not start) then push and hold trip miles reset for about ten seconds. oil light will go out. Steve

if it is a 403 in a trans am you have a small block

that is true..either way...if all of the internals are stock then you you might be getting as high as 250 horse...these were not high hp engines..I hope you knew that before you bought it

I agree with all the above assessments.

With the right combos, you might be able to get 265 flywheel horsepower at 4400 rpm. The 403 Olds engine used in the Trans Am was not known for its great horsepower, but it could have a lot of low-end torque. With the right mods, you might be able to get as much as 375 ft-lbs at the flywheel, but at a low engine speed of around 2800 rpms.

I wouldn't expect much over 300 ft-lbs on a chassis dyno with a stock engine, though.

Agreed...and the stock HP rating of the 403 equipped T/A was 185HP. That at least gives you are starting point.

In 1979 the 403 was a big block not a small block and hp was 185 w 220 ft torque

The 403 Olds engine is NOT a big block. It is an extremely large bore small block. It is running a bore of 4.351 and a stroke of 3.38. It shares the same external dimensions of the 307 and 350 Olds. The heads, crank and many other parts will swap between these engines. If you have a car running the smaller 307 or 350 you can swap a 403 in without any modifications to anything. I don't know why some people have it in their heads that anything over a 400ci is a big block. It's the same as listening to them talk about small and big block Pontiacs. Pontiac had only one size block...externally.

I do appreciate learning new things and today i did. I have owned my 79 TA w/403 since highschool ('91) and always assumed it was a big block. I am currently doing a body on restoration with a few mechanical fixes and im knee deep in the motor right now. You are correct about the 403 being a small block. I guess i just believed it was a big block cuz i heard that all these years and just by looking there is a lotta engine under the hood. Still a big fan of the 403 and big or short it has done the job it was built for. yours truley, Trans Am Fan!

Don't know the length, however depending on the options it should weight between 3800-3950lbs

Not in the literal sense, but you could configure a base Trans Am with the same features and options as a WS6 model if you were so inclined.