Radiators

* With the engine cold remove the radiator cap * Move a large container under to catch the coolant as you drain it * Drain the radiator by opening the drain plug at the bottom on the left side

Check the fan. If you have an electric fan, verify it comes on when the car is at operating temp. If you have a 'clutch' fan you can verify it's working by starting the car and listening for the fan to change pitch or 'roar' when it warms up. This can be quite noticeable on larger fans (NEVER put your hands anywhere near a moving fan. Keep a safe distance). With the engine off check the fan for excessive movement (clutch type) by rocking a fan blade back and forth. There should be little or no play. If your fan is attached to the water pump this is also a good way to check it's operation. Again, there would be little or no play. Despite the popular myth, your car NEEDS a thermostat. Do not remove it from operation. To properly check a thermostat, remove it from the vehicle and place in a pan of hot water of approximately the same temperature (usually stamped on the thermostat - but not always). Generally, if it opens - it's good. Check your manual for the proper temperature range and replace if found defective. You can also check water pump flow by leaving the thermostat out of the housing. Re-fill the car with water and run the engine with the radiator cap off. Once filled, you should easily be able to see a 'current' flow by. If your view is blocked, rev the car once or twice. Water should come flowing out of the radiator at a pretty good rate. Don't forget to replace the thermostat.
If your car stays cool at lower speeds and all of the above checks out ok but your car still overheats at high speeds, it's probably the radiator. With the engine warmed up sitting at an idle, measure the temperature of the upper and lower tanks. There should be (ideally) a 40+ degree differential with the upper tank being hotter (obviously). Even if the overall temperature is not exceeding the maximum heat range, a lower differential indicates a problem and the radiator needs serviced or replaced. Example: If the top tank is at 195o (normal operating temperature) but the bottom tank is a 185o then the radiator needs serviced. Water is not cooling before it heads back into the engine and at high speeds, this will just get worse.
Also , re-check the lower hose. On some cars I have seen this hose collapse after the engine warms up, restricting flow. Even though the hose appeared to be in good shape. There are also some engine conditions relating to fuel mixture (a 'lean' condition) that can cause overheating, but this is rare on any newer cars.

It is located where you would normally expect the drain to be, it just doesn't look like what you may expect. It is a plastic butterfly shaped plug located on the passenger side of vehicle, bottom right of radiator. You will probably have to lay down and look from underneath.

Ever since electric fans started appearing in cars as stock factory items, they've been controlled by thermostats, just like the thermostat in your home A/C system. They typically are hard-wired (not through the ignition switch) so as to help continue to cool the engine, even after you've shut it off. All engines suffer from some degree of what's known as "heat-soak", or the condition of residual heat in the block continuing to heat the coolant for some time after the engine is shut off. Left unchecked, this can lead to elevated temperatures under the hood, causing drastic pressure spikes in both the coolant and fuel circuits. Remember, there's no longer any air moving under the hood. Granted, there's pressure relief controls to handle this, but they bring about the possibility of dumping fuel and glycol overboard.

When the radiator isn't working

Disconnect the lower coolant hose.

if its out of the top you might need a new cap they are pressurized

and sometimes the spring is bad

There should be a small valve at the bottom of the rad.

Call or contact Radiator.com on the web. Great products and service.

Once a year or when Anti-Freeze is Brown in Color

Locate the thermostat housing it sits between the fan and engine and has a small hose going to the reservoir of the radiator. To bleed the cooling system you need to remove this hose, start the car and keep filling the reservoir until water comes out of the top of the thermostat housing. With the water jetting out reconnect and tighten this hose. NOTE: Be careful if your housing cover is made of plastic as the small outlet can braek easily if too much pressure is applied while tightning the hose.

IO doubt it. A fuel tank must have an opening to air so a vacumm will not be created as fuel is drawn from the tank. A crack should increase the ease of air entering the tank. However, if the crack affected the original outlet to air and plugged that outlet that could cause stallng. The other thing that could happen is that the cracked fuel cap is allowing dirt to enter the fuel tank. Dirt could be filling the filter in the fuel line and if insufficient gasoline is going through the filter, that could also cause stalling. Sorry this is not a yes or no answwer. But both possibilites are possible. Frankly, don't think you should use anything with a cracked cap. Fuel can spill ignite and cause a fire. That could soon exceed the cost of a new cap.

You would remove it from underneath. There is a cross member which holds the bottom of the radiator and you remove this, after unhooking all the lines (trans coolant and engine coolant) and draining the radiator.

a bad relay-a bad temperature sensor.a blown fuse.A bad Ground..a BAD power Source.A COOLING FAN MOTOR THAT IS BURNT UP. a bad ign switch ---A DEAD BATTERY.etc-etc

Drain the coolant either by undoing the bottom hose or using the drain cock. Then fill with water. Run the engine until it is at normal operating temp then drain again. Do this until the coolant is clean. Then refill the radiator either by the radiator cap or overflow tnk. Run until at operating temp then recheck the level and add as needed. That's it. Good luck.

Yes

Your description sounds like the thermostat is faulty. If the thermostat is stuck closed, there will be no heat for the interior. New thermostat's are occasionally bad, it has happened to me. The coolant is leaking from what tube? You can verify the thermostat operation, but unfortunately you must remove it from the engine (but with your symptoms that is the most logical failure). Put it into room temperature water in a pot on the stove. Heat the water and check the temperature at which it opens. This is a near foolproof check, but some thermostats are hard to tell when they open. You might have to pull it out of the water (use care it will be hot) to observe the open condition. In general 180-190 degrees F will be the temperature (water boils at sea level at 212 F) at which the thing is nearly fully open. But that depends on your exact version. The temperature is stamped on some them. For further advice read through the previous posts on overheating or thermostat replacement. Your description sounds like the thermostat is faulty. If the thermostat is stuck closed, there will be no heat for the interior. New thermostat's are occasionally bad, it has happened to me. The coolant is leaking from what tube? You can verify the thermostat operation, but unfortunately you must remove it from the engine (but with your symptoms that is the most logical failure). Put it into room temperature water in a pot on the stove. Heat the water and check the temperature at which it opens. This is a near foolproof check, but some thermostats are hard to tell when they open. You might have to pull it out of the water (use care it will be hot) to observe the open condition. In general 180-190 degrees F will be the temperature at which the thing is nearly fully open(water boils at sea level at 212 F). The temperature your thermostat opens depends on your exact version. The temperature is stamped on some them. For further advice read through the previous posts on overheating or thermostat replacement.

Push down and turn counterclockwise

Could be an indication of head gasket, leaking May be due to crack / blow-hole in Oil Cooler. Could be an indication of head gasket, leaking

10w 40

FIRST YOU MUST REMOVE THE TWO DOG BONE MOUNTS(I THINK ITS FOUR SCREWS EACH). THEN YOU HAVE FOUR SCREWS ON THE FAN ASSEMBLY(TWO UPPER,TWO LOWER). THEN REMOVE THE TRANNY LINES, AND UPPER AND LOWER RADIATOR HOSES.

Open the hood and Voila!