Saturn S-Series

The thermostat should be located on the motor where the top radiator hose meets the motor. The thermostat housing should be held on with 2 bolts. remove bolts, replace thermostat and gasket, and reinstall. Top off the radiator with coolant. The t-stat is actually located on the left side of the engine (looking at it from the front) at the end of the LOWER RAD HOSE It does have 2 10 mm bolts that hold it on

Jack up the front end and place your hands at the 9 & 3 positions on one of the tires. Now push hard with your 9 hand and then push hard with your three hand. Watch, or have someone else watch, the tierods as you do this. You'll see sloppy movement in the bad one.

You're gonna kick yourself when you see how easy this is. At the very base of the wiper arm, lower than the last joint,the piece you see is just a spring loaded cover. Put your bare thumb under the very back end of the wiper arm cover and pry up, it's not even stiff so if you are exerting much force you are at the wrong place. Once again slide your hand down the wiper arm until you run out of a place to slide to,put your thumb under what's left and pry up gently to expose a nut. Remove the nut, then wiggle the wiper gently back and forth while pulling up gently. To re-install reverse the order. Good luck and your welcome! Huggybear 3811

The easiest way to access the pulley is to remove the front right wheel and fender liner. The pulley will be right behind the liner.

Disconnect and remove the battery, air cleaner and remove as much peripheral hardware as you can. Disconnect the exhaust manifold from the headpipe. Disconnect fuel lines, electrical connections (tag all electrical wiring to make certain that you can put them back where they belong) and the hydraulic power steering lines. Remove the bell housing dust cover (between the engine and transaxle) and disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate. disconnect the motor mounts while supporting the engine with an engine lift. FINALLY, disconnect the engine from the bell housing by removing the bolts that hold the two together.

CAREFULLY lift the engine while watching to make certain that you haven't missed something.

It all sounds a lot easier than it really is.

If you haven't done this before it's often good to invite an experienced mechanic to help you.

6X Signal Fault The 6X output signal is a five volt square wave that is initially high. The signal switches low at each of the six. 60 degrees crankshaft position (CKP) sensor pulses. The 6X signal is used by the PCM for greater rpm resolution and in determining KS circuit (system) (knock retard) windowing. Diagnostic Trouble Code parameters: DTC 19 will set if: Three 6X pulses do not occur between each reference pulse. A 6X pulse does not immediately follow a reference pulse.

that easy take out your alarm out your car i m sure your alarm will be disable

Try running a tank of premium gas or a bottle of octane boost, you may be hearing the knock associated with poor quality fuel. One dose should keep you trouble free for a while on cheap gas, and if it comes back just repeat.

It is between the alternator and starter, on the firewall side of the engine, nearer to the passenger side of the car.

This issue could be due to a faulty ignition coil, spark plugs, or fuel injectors. When the engine is warm, these components may struggle to function properly, causing the misfiring. Have a mechanic inspect and potentially replace these parts to resolve the issue.

The PVC valve is not held in by any nuts or bolts. Just pull on it to remove it.

Here is a how-to for a 2000 S-series. All s-series struts are the same http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67077

sounds like you have a worn out clutch.

The horn is under the drivers front headlight bolted to the frame Rwemove the 2 10mm bolts holding in the light and pull out the headlight assy Looking at the car the horn is on your right with a 3 wire plug going to it

Please be more specific regarding the "problems".

If the engine knocks at red line, you probably have a worn bearing or piston slap.

If the engine won't REACH red line, you may not have sufficient fuel/air mixture reaching the cylinders to allow the engine to run that fast.

Understand that "red line" is a MAXIMUM RECOMMENDED RPM of a specific engine. The engineers have calculated the mass and strength of internal parts and determined that the engine should not be allowed to operate at RPM's ABOVE the red line on the tach.

It doesn't necessarily mean that the engine should be operated at that speed.

yes, but will dilute to the lesser quality of the two,and all color or any antifreeze can be added to other but will not replace it

For the front of the car, the frame rail behind the subcarriage. For the rear, the center hub where the suspension meets. These are just 1 set of points. See Autozone/advancedauto's website for pictures of other locations

Remove the front trim. The front dash is connected to this as one. You then can remove the sterio.

Note that the portion of the dash that covers the stereo extends over the HVAC controls and up around the instrument cluster. It is held in by 4 "snap clips" that can be disengaged simply by pulling away from the dash. However, two other parts need to be removed.

First, remove the shell that covers the steering column. This it done by removing the two recessed screws from underneath.

Be careful there are five screws under there, two are for the upper cover three are for the bottom half. They all use a 7/32 socket.

Second, the vent to the left of the steering wheel needs to be pulled out toward the driver's door. It should snap loose. It does not need to be completely removed; only pulled out enough such that the tabs clear the panel you are trying to remove.

Now you can pull the panel off. It is held in by 4 clips. One is above the stereo. two are below HVAC controls on either side. The last is on the left side of the steering wheel. Pull the panel toward you and it should snap loose.

Rear of the engine on the passenger side. Best accessed from underneath. Use Jackstands! Copy and paste this link for instructions. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/99/7c/0900823d8019997c.jsp Wish I knew how to just add the link.

Check to make sure the aux cooling fans are running. The motor could be faulty. I have a 92 SL2 that did the same thing. Assuming that the engine is similar...what happened to mine was that the coolant temp sensor was bad. Of course it stayed cool while highway...but when in city...it did not signal fan to come on...with the obvious overheating. I replaced it..and that fixed the prob.

Cast blocks usually can't be welded. Even if you get someone to do it no one is gonna warranty the work. There is just too much vibration and it will usually just crack the welds apart after a while. Good luck.

Drain the fluid just like you would the oil. replace the filter the exact same way also

yes

2 different fuses

It is located behind the passenger seat in the floor under a panel (under the floormat).