Steering and Suspension

Yes. The shaft is referring to the control arm part itself and the link is the sway bar link.

what type of car & are you replacing one or both.

The end of steering wheel is known as a track rod end. It connects the shock/ brake and drivershaft knuckle with the help of a small ball joint.

it should be 5inches between a driver and steering wheel

excessive shaking when applying brakes points to brake rotars being out of round, cracked or warped. have rotors machined

to turn in smaller radius

input- Rotary

output- Linear

The power steering output is directly proportional to the engine speed [RPM]. I suspect that when it is difficult to turn, the engine is at idle speed, which is set too at too low an RPM. Then when you depress the accelerator, the engine speed increases and the power steering pump speed and output power increase also. Have a qualified mechanic check and properly set the engine idle speed to the manufacturer's specifications. IF the idle speed is not abnormally low, would suggest a badly worn power steering pump. Properly set idle speed first, and if that does not correct the problem, then have the power steering pump output checked.

Begin by removing the rear tire and wheel. Remove the end of the axle. Remove the wheel bearing nut. Remove the wheel bearing seal and the wheel bearing.

When you tighten the torsion bar you will cause the spring rate to change on the front suspension which means it will bounce a bit more, in theory. Also you will cause the top of you tire to tilt out since the upper and lower a arms are not exactly equal, so you may need a front end alignment too. I've adjusted both a 1992 and 2001 3/4 ton and never had any issue. Cheapest way to level the front end up.

where is it shaking in the steering wheel or in the seat? shaking at certain speeds can be caused by a busted belt in a tire

lower control arm is where the camber and caster adjustment is. you cannot change camber without changing caster. the vehicle has to be aligned. to answer the ? the front bolt on lower control arm. to raise pull under to lower slide out

Frankly, This is the mechanic covering himself.on a vintage car such as this, there are many different variables that can occur. I'll bet he is just taking a few snapped bolts and stuck bushings into account. if it takes him less time, he will probably credit you the labor. but in short, this is what i would give you as an estimate.

Roger Brown

New Line Performance

Could be a worn belt, failing power steering pump or low power steering fluid.

The estimated cost to replace one inner tie rod end on a 2003 Isuzu Rodeo is between $121 and $227 including parts and labor. The estimated cost to replace one outer tie rod end is $118 to $205.

A front right wheel can grind for a number of reasons. Brake pads when worn to metal can cause this. Also C/v axles that have shredded boots, worn wheel bearings.

start by checking the brakes, replace as necessary

bottom left front of motor

The could be made longer and stronger. (learn to use grammar fag)

Preparatory procedures:

These steps are not strictly necessary, but they easily pay for themselves by making the job go far more efficiently by making space for to work, rather than working in cramped quarters where it is difficult to work and see what you are doing.

1. Remove the body passenger side engine compartment brace that runs over the battery to the strut tower. (3 bolts)

2. Remove the battery. (Two terminals and one hold-down bolt)

3. Remove the nut that secures the electrical junction box and let it slide down and toward the battery tray

4. Remove the two nuts that secure the coolant reservoir. With the tube still connected, swing it around to the front of the car.

*You now have 6 inches or more of unobstructed space in front of the engine.

Remove the old sensor:

1. Remove the serpentine belt

2. Remove the belt guard

3. Remove the power steering pump pulley.

*Note: Because the bracket that holds the power steering pump is in the shape of a C, you cannot lift the pump straight up, nor can you move it toward the back of the car to escape the C because the bank 2 fuel rail is in the way as well as another bracket. You cannot rotate the pump forward to flip it out of the C bracket because because the pulley and pump together form a channel around the C bracket. Thus, you must remove the pulley. The access holes in the pulley to remove the pump bolts are of no benefit in this application.

4. Remove the only the metal line from the power steering pump with a flare nut wrench.

5. Remove the 3 bolts securing the power steering pump to the accessory bracket.

6. Rotate the pump to free it from the C bracket, and lay it aside.

7. You can now clearly see the camshaft position sensor. Part of the intake gasket will cover part of the sensor. Trim this away. Clean the debris from around the sensor to prevent dirt from entering the engine.

8. Remove the small bolt that secures the camshaft position sensor.

9. Using a long screw driver, break the sensor loose by forcing the sensor rotate in its hole, then wiggle and pry it up and out of the hole.

10. Clean the sensor hole and give it a coat of oil.

11. Un-clip the old sensor from the wiring loom. There may be a gray lock tab on the connector. You must remove or cut that out first. You will not need to reuse it. With a small screw driver, gently pry up the locking tab on the old sensor and disconnect it.

12. Install the new sensor, and reassemble everything in reverse order.

It is done all the time. It will be easier if you install the quick connecting link kit. It will just come very unstable at higher speed and lots of bouncing around. It does give you more articulation on the suspension. Good luck. Do not run on the road bc very unstable.

I believe its called a rear leaf shackle.

I don't think it has much to do with the lift or your suspension. Get a mechanic to look at your rotors, drums, and pads. Also get them to look at your bearings.

The safety of a lift kit depends on several factors:

1) The higher a lift kit is the more it raises a vehicle's center of gravity. This will effect how the vehicle handles. A higher center of gravity will increase the risk of a rollover.

2) The quality of the lift kit also effects its safety. Tall lift blocks (blocks installed between a leaf spring and an axle) for example are generally considered less safe than new, larger leaf springs.

3) The driver, however, is the overall biggest safety factor. Modified vehicles handle differently and the driver must adjust their driving habits accordingly. This means driving slower, allowing more distance to stop (if larger tires are installed), and properly maintaining their vehicle.

The upper ball joints come with a new control arm , as far as I know you can't just

change the balljoint ( if that's what you are asking ? )

The Davis steering is an exact steering gear mechanism.the slotted links AM and BH are attached to the front wheel axle, which turns on pivots A and B respectively . the road CD is constrain to move in the direction of its length, by the sliding member at P and Q. these constrain are connected to the slotted links AM and BH by a sliding and a turning member at each end. the steering is effected by moving CD to right or to left of normal position. C`D` show the position of CD for turning to left.

let

a=vertical distance between AB and CD.

b=Wheel base.

c= Distance between the pivots A and B of the front axle.

d=Horizontal distance between AC and BD.

x=distance move by AC to AC`=CC`=DD`, and

α=Angle of inclination of the link AC and BD , to vertical.

From triangle AA`C`

tan(α+φ)=A`C`/AA`=d+x/a

From triangle AA`c

tanα=A`C /AA`=d/a

From triangle BB`D`

tan(α-Θ)=B`D`=d-x/a

we know that tan(α+φ)=tanα+tanφ/1-tanα*tanφ

=d+a*tanφ/a-d*tanφ

(d+x)(a-d*tanφ)=a(d+a*tanφ)

tanφ=a*x/(a^2+d^2+d*x)

similarly , from tan(α-Θ)=d-x/a

We get tanΘ=a*x/(a^2+d^2-d*x)

we know that for correct steering ,

cotφ-cotΘ=c/d

1/tanφ-1/tanΘ=c/d

(a^2+d^2+d*x)/a*x-(a^2+d^2-d*x)/a*x=c/b

2d*x/a*x=c/d

2tanα=c/d (d/a=tanα)

Note: through the gear is theoretically correct, but due the presence of more sliding members, the wear will be increased which produce slackness between the sliding surface, thus eliminating the original accuracy.

Hence Davis steering gear is not in common use.