Steering and Suspension

Without more detail, my first guess would be that you have worn down your break pad to the metal on the side that is grinding. What your hearing is the metal from the pad grinding on the rotor. If this is the case then you may hear it get worse when you apply pressure to the breaks. You will want to replace the pads on "both" sides of the car and you might need to replace the rotor or have the rotor turned that is on the grinding sound side ASAP.

Remove wheel

Remove brake caliper and suspend with a bungee cord to avoid stressing the rubber pipe

Prise off centre of wheel hub cap - it's a push fit

Remove circlip and washer from driveshaft

Remove 6 bolts around drive shaft

Remove splined plate

Remove 2 screws

Remove the locking metal ring with many holes, note the metal tab at the top - must go back same way

Using a socket cut or welded so as it has 2 pegs that fit in the larger 2 holes under the locking ring, remove the nut holding the wheel bearings in

Pull the entire hub off

Drive old bearings out, fit new bearings and pack with grease

Handle hub carefully to avoid the bearings falling out (good idea to put a clean cloth/board beneath the vehicle)

Refitting is a reversal of removal. Torquing procedure for the 2-hole nut advice varies, but mitsubishi manuals for some models states:

Tighten to 130Nm

Loosen to 0Nm

Tighten to 25Nm

Loosen 30-40 degrees so locking ring fits (align screw holes with holes in locking ring

the fluid looks like choc milk

2 inch lift kits are normally sold as lift blocks so they will lift the vehicle exactly 2 inches.

Larger lift kits that achieve their lift with replacement springs will have some variability. This is due to sag over time as well as variations in the exact overall weight of the vehicle.

It depends on what year, make and model of vehicle. Some vehicles have wheel bearing assemblies which must be replaced as units and some use cone-type wheel bearings. Generally, with either type, you must first remove the wheel, the brake caliper, and the slip-on type of rotor. Then the process diversifies depending on the style of wheel bearing involved and whether the vehicle is front wheel drive, rear wd, all wd, or 4wd.

For specific details, you will have to ask a more specific question.

Because you have "play" in your steering wheel. Your steering mechanism is routed through a gear box. The gears in this box wear down over time creating "play" in the steering. Your steering wheel and your front wheel are no longer synchronized.

This play allows you to move your steering wheel a few inches either way without actually moving the wheels. It also allows the wheels to have just as much free time as the steering wheel causing you to be almost constantly correcting the path of the car to stay in a straight line. This is why your car will move out of a straight line when you are pointing your steering straight ahead.

Also, it is a road hazard because if you have to slam on your brakes you may not stay in a straight line. The "play" will allow the front of the car to violently go to the left or right.

Yes, you have to compress if you remove either.

# Disable airbag system.

# Remove steering column covers and lower instrument panel cover

# Lower steering column

# Disconnect the shift interlock cable from ignition lock housing

# The lock assembly is clamped to the steering column by two

shear-head bolts. Drill heads off each bolt and remove the bracket.

# Remove the steering lock assembly from the steering column

Not knowing what vehicle you have I can tell you that most power steering pumps require a special puller to remove the pulley off the pump and install the pulley without damaging pump or pulley. This puller can be rented or purchased from most auto parts stores.

Loose connections or worn parts in the light switch.

The steering gear on a ship turns the rudder(s) to keep them pointing in the required direction.

International law (the SOLAS regulations) requires most of the system to be duplicated so that, in the event of any reasonably foreseeable machinery breakdown, control of the ship is maintained.

Although there are many variants (with alternative approaches to almost every part of the design, and lots of scope for mixing and matching), a modern installation might look like:

Fitted in the steering gear compartment are at least two hydraulic power packs. Each of these contains an electric motor which drives a hydraulic pump and a valve block. In response to an electronic signal, the valve block switches the flow from the pump to either of two output pipes (one to move the rudder to port, the other to starboard) or just dumps it back to the hydraulic tank if no movement is demanded.

The power packs drive a hydraulic actuator which is attached to (and turns) the top of the rudder stock..

(so when an electric input is received at the valve blocks, hydraulic fluid flows from the pumps into the actuator, and makes the rudder move).

The electric signal comes from a control system. Again, to protect against failures, this has at least two channels.

In the most basic mode, the helmsman can press one of a pair of "non-follow-up" (NFU) buttons on the bridge. Each of these opens a valve on the valve block making the rudder move in the required direction. The rudder will keep moving until the button is released, and will then stay there until the other button is pressed to start it moving the other way.

Steering in NFU mode requires concentration, so the control system also provides a "follow up" (FU) mode. In FU steering, the helmsman sets the desired rudder angle using a small handwheel on the bridge. This sends an electrical signal proportional to the desired angle down to the steering gear compartment.

There is a small unit called a "rudder angle transmitter" attached to the top of the rudder stock which generates an electrical signal proportional to the actual rudder angle.

Both desired and actual rudder angle signals are sent to an electronic unit in the steering gear compartment called a "rudder servo amplifier" (RSA). The RSA calculates the difference between the desired and actual angles and uses this to generate signals to control the valves in the power packs. Consequently, in FU steering, the rudders automatically adopt the position set on the helmsman's wheel.

Finally, to provide additional protection against machinery breakdowns, there are usually additional NFU buttons and an alternative FU handwheel in the steering gear compartment, mechanical operating levers on the valve blocks on the power packs (to control the rudder if the electronics all get fried) and a hydraulic handpump. The handpump works too slowly to steer the ship, but can be used to centralise the rudder is a vessel that has lost all power, allowing her to be towed in a straight line.

take to the dealer or got to a salvage yard and buy replacement parts

Could be a worn CV joint

Taiwan

The term "strut" applies to more than just wheels. A strut is a brace connected at each end, which acts to restrain, or control, the movement of anything. The best example that almost everyone has seen, at least in photographs, is wing struts on an airplane. The struts are the long "bars" that connect from the underside of a top [or high] mounted wing, to the lower edge of the fuselage. This forms a mechanical triangle which reinforces the wing and prevents "flapping" tendencies [bending] of the wing. On bi-planes, the bars [both vertical and angular] are also struts. On most vehicles, a wheel strut connects from a wheel suspension member to the frame or body to restrict the movement of the suspension assembly, which improves control and "rideability." In many late model vehicles, a strut for the front wheel suspension consists of combining a coil spring AND a shock absorber into a single component which is connected from the top of each front wheel to the unibody "frame" in a vertical "tower" which is a part of the unibody.

110 ft lbs

The task is fairly straightforward but you may spend as much doing the job yourself then having an alignment shop perform the necessary alignment afterwards as you would if you take the car in and have them replace the tierod ends. To perform the job, you will need to obtain a "pickle fork" and a good size hammer. Start by supporting the front end of the car on jackstands. Turn the steering to the right and loosen the nut on the stem of the ball joint. Whack the pitman arm where the balljoint inserts. Shoot some penetrating oil where the stem inserts. Put the pickle fork under the ball joint-between it and the arm and whack it a few times. Cuss at it some, whack it some more. If you have done this properly, the balljoint will pop out. Turn the wheel the other way and repeat on the other side. Now, you loosen the jam nut and unscrew the ball joint out of the tie rod. Screw the new one in and try to get it in to the same depth as the old ones. NOTE: The balljoint may be left-hand threaded. Put the stems of the ball joint up back through the arm and put the nuts on and tighten the jam nuts. Lower the car off the jack stands and limp it to the nearest alignment shop. At the alignment shop, they will ask you why you went to the trouble to replace the inners and didn't do the outers at the same time (sort of like buying one new shoe).

most likely, power steering pump low on fluid or on its way out,i think.

Probably i would go for wheel balance and maybe check your wheel bearings rotors will not make it shake because of speed